Thanks. I used that same tool, first time on a GMT, wasn't as pleasing as on a DJ bezel.
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Tutorial: How to fix the Bezel on a CLEAN GMT Master 2
- Thread starter derjenigewelcher
- Start date
Thanks. I used that same tool, first time on a GMT, wasn't as pleasing as on a DJ bezel.
Last question after installing all the gen part do i need to lubricate? Does the GMT master 2 gen have bezel lubricated?
- 12/3/18
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Very thin coat of silicone grease on the inner perimeter of the hytrel ring is all that is needed. I've never put any other lube on bezel parts aside from CF.
Hello there,
I followed the instructions but for some reason it's impossible to put my bezel back in place on my "old" GMT M2 LN replica...
my pieces are slightly different though, because I have an extra "spring ring wire" without registration, I assume for extra tension.
when I register the bezel on the spring ring with registration it doesn't have enough tension and it click but it just goes out... doesn't hold...
And when I try to add the "wire ring" inside the bezel, it's doesn't go all the way inside the bezel, and then doesn't go nowhere near the registrations on the spring ring...
It was holding well with all of this, somehow can't put it back into place... lol
any idea guys please please ? thank you in advance
I followed the instructions but for some reason it's impossible to put my bezel back in place on my "old" GMT M2 LN replica...
my pieces are slightly different though, because I have an extra "spring ring wire" without registration, I assume for extra tension.
when I register the bezel on the spring ring with registration it doesn't have enough tension and it click but it just goes out... doesn't hold...
And when I try to add the "wire ring" inside the bezel, it's doesn't go all the way inside the bezel, and then doesn't go nowhere near the registrations on the spring ring...
It was holding well with all of this, somehow can't put it back into place... lol
any idea guys please please ? thank you in advance
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How about your hytral ring / bezel gasket? That is the part which should hold down the bezel.
How does this look?
is that the "wire" ring so to speak ? it's on the left on the first picture, it doesn't go all the way inside the bezel
on the second picture you can see that hytral ring doesn't fit back into the bezel
on the second picture you can see that hytral ring doesn't fit back into the bezel
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no rubber whatsoever
this wire ring was inside instead (I assume, as a cheap alternative) :
is there a safe site shipping from europe to change the whole thing maybe? Im looking for a new Insert anyway mine is scratched.. lol
this wire ring was inside instead (I assume, as a cheap alternative) :
is there a safe site shipping from europe to change the whole thing maybe? Im looking for a new Insert anyway mine is scratched.. lol
Well CLEAN Factory (and that what this thread is about) has a different kind of build. Not sure about yours... where are you based btw?
yeah I’m sorry about this
I bought many second hand replica pieces more than half a decade ago, i cannot account for/remember the traceability for them at the moment lol
In all my research, this thread kept popping up as the most relevant lol and since i’ve been a member for a long time, i figured i should ask
Im in europe/france
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So after a few weeks of using the watch i've come to hate the rotating bezel lack of a defined click, and smooth operation. Mine seem to rotate nicely initially then required more force to continue to rotate it.
Opened up the bezel and cleaned out the LOADS of white grease junk inside. A slight bit of Singer mineral oil for lubrication and now it rotates smoothly and clicks super nicely !
Used this video as an initial guide to prise up the bezel once inside its pretty obvious just clean all the white stuff out apply A BIT of oil and done !
Opened up the bezel and cleaned out the LOADS of white grease junk inside. A slight bit of Singer mineral oil for lubrication and now it rotates smoothly and clicks super nicely !
Used this video as an initial guide to prise up the bezel once inside its pretty obvious just clean all the white stuff out apply A BIT of oil and done !
i followed your guide, i installed gen spring, gen ring and bezel tension ring gen, magically it now has a click and a feel like gen, i no longer play by turning right or left, but i have a little play if i try to raise the bezel, the reason is because i didn't replace the hytrel?
The hytrel is THE prt that holds your gmt bezel on the case basicly. Problem is they deform very fast, and aftermarket rings dont fit 100%
I’ve just installed a gen crystal with gasket and gen bezel. I damaged my hytrel ring so I ordered a aftermarket one.
Once all fitted together I can’t turn the bezel to click?
It turns freely without click spring in.
And also I can turn bezel if I remove the flat washer? Any ideas what’s going on here?
Once all fitted together I can’t turn the bezel to click?
It turns freely without click spring in.
And also I can turn bezel if I remove the flat washer? Any ideas what’s going on here?
The only Gasket which completely fits the CLEAN Bezels IS the clean bezel. No aftermarket.
Or you mean the only gasket that fits the actual CF retaining click ring is the original CF one ?
- 12/3/18
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- 69,769
- 113
I am using fishline for hytrel rings whenever I have an issue with a rep one. I bought about 12 spools of fishline when I first started doing this, having no idea what diameter would be best. Now I use only 0.56mm, 0.61mm and less frequently 0.64mm. Even then sometimes the fit isn't perfect so I fold over a piece of 400 grit sandpaper, hold the line in a pin vise and pull the paper down the straightened line to thin it a little. Then put a thin coat of silicone grease on the line. It works well, no vertical or lateral play once you find the right diameter. Use Monofilament, NOT Braided
It has also been reported that 0.70 mm nylon jewelry making thread works well as a substitute for the hytrel ring.
Once you have the correct size diameter, the line can be wrapped around your finger or a Sharpie for example to give it a curved shape. It should stay in place during the install if you haven't sanded the ends narrower than the body.
Start small and work up to a thicker size if it's too loose. If you force a bezel down with too big a line it won't rotate and it can be very difficult to get it back off. There's always a way but it can get complicated. Think nylon melting point and ovens, haha.
Fishline is incredibly tough. I daresay a properly sized (in diameter) piece of fishline will never exhibit play unless the bezel groove or retaining ring lip it rests under has defects like burrs or sharp edges.
But, if you put a piece in place that is too big, the bezel can be pressed on with extra effort and then it may not rotate. It can happen that afterwards the bezel will not come off the case. This is because the fishline is so dense there is hardly any give to it. The only solution then is to remove the movement and any other O rings and gaskets you can, then heat the watch head in an oven to 500° for 20-30 minutes.
This does not leave a mess - the fishline will melt, turn black and shrink or crumble allowing for easy removal and cleanup. It will also melt a crystal gasket if present and it can stink a bit so best done with open windows and other family members gone. Note that there are precautions about nylon fumes being toxic, so proceed at your own risk. This is a tiny bit of melting taking place whose danger can be deemed negligible IMO. I have had to do this twice, due to using too big a piece of fishline. You will know beforehand if this is going to happen - if the bezel is crazy hard to press down, the line is too big in diameter!
The point of this discussion is to attest to the near indestructible nature of fishline. With normal use in a bezel it should never be compromised.
It has also been reported that 0.70 mm nylon jewelry making thread works well as a substitute for the hytrel ring.
Once you have the correct size diameter, the line can be wrapped around your finger or a Sharpie for example to give it a curved shape. It should stay in place during the install if you haven't sanded the ends narrower than the body.
Start small and work up to a thicker size if it's too loose. If you force a bezel down with too big a line it won't rotate and it can be very difficult to get it back off. There's always a way but it can get complicated. Think nylon melting point and ovens, haha.
Fishline is incredibly tough. I daresay a properly sized (in diameter) piece of fishline will never exhibit play unless the bezel groove or retaining ring lip it rests under has defects like burrs or sharp edges.
But, if you put a piece in place that is too big, the bezel can be pressed on with extra effort and then it may not rotate. It can happen that afterwards the bezel will not come off the case. This is because the fishline is so dense there is hardly any give to it. The only solution then is to remove the movement and any other O rings and gaskets you can, then heat the watch head in an oven to 500° for 20-30 minutes.
This does not leave a mess - the fishline will melt, turn black and shrink or crumble allowing for easy removal and cleanup. It will also melt a crystal gasket if present and it can stink a bit so best done with open windows and other family members gone. Note that there are precautions about nylon fumes being toxic, so proceed at your own risk. This is a tiny bit of melting taking place whose danger can be deemed negligible IMO. I have had to do this twice, due to using too big a piece of fishline. You will know beforehand if this is going to happen - if the bezel is crazy hard to press down, the line is too big in diameter!
The point of this discussion is to attest to the near indestructible nature of fishline. With normal use in a bezel it should never be compromised.
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