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BP Re-Releases 5-Digit Submariners with VR3135

Dizzy

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It's probably not a winding issue; low amplitude due to lack of charge ends up making movements faster, not slower (amp and rate are inversely related).
It really just looks like you can fix it by opening it up and regulating it. Not difficult
checked it again today and adjusted It to +6 and 210 amp with 0.1 beat error. Thats the most amplitude I can get out of it. Not acceptable by my standard but it’s better than +44 or whatever it was when I got it. My demagnitizer is junk I think so I ordered a new one. There’s def some magnetism coming from it because it moves a compas needle. Usually that would cause it to run fast but mine was super slow. I’ll give it another try after I get it demagnetized. Maybe it got too close to some big neodymium magnets during shipping. Oh well worst case I’ll rip it apart and service it. I just thought it was interesting to receive a watch so far out of time.
 

muiramas

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Is there someone who is on case polishing grinding duty at the BP factory sitting there with a giant grin on his face in the knowing they are cutting in these monster chamfers on the lugs and how much it annoys everyone?
Excited Dr Evil GIF
I love chamfers, when Rolex lost them and moved to their fat-ass cases and special needs dials it was a triple design downgrade IMHO.

+ they are really well done on this BP - I like them a lot.
 

KushBandit

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I love chamfers, when Rolex lost them and moved to their fat-ass cases and special needs dials it was a triple design downgrade IMHO.

+ they are really well done on this BP - I like them a lot.
I agree that BP does a great job on chamfers, but they're too wide on the 5-digits. The chamfers on these are like the vintage 4-digit, though lovely and spot-on for vintage models, is a bit much for these. I enjoy the chamfers on Rolex as well, the razor sharp 6-digit stuff isn't my style.

Top is 1680 from '78, bottom is 14060 from '96. Courtesy of TRF.

 

TerryRobot

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I agree that BP does a great job on chamfers, but they're too wide on the 5-digits. The chamfers on these are like the vintage 4-digit, though lovely and spot-on for vintage models, is a bit much for these. I enjoy the chamfers on Rolex as well, the razor sharp 6-digit stuff isn't my style.

Top is 1680 from '78, bottom is 14060 from '96. Courtesy of TRF.

Ahh but those have the lugholes where there were defined chamfers but no where near as deep as the BP case of today, the smaller chamfer just looks more finished to me where as the BP on the GMT at least 16710 they are too pronounced. But yes it does look like its be refinished as some RSC gens have them Im guessing where the case has been scuffed and it was the only way to make the edge again. If BP put in the lugholes to make them look like slightly older models they then dont need the LEC crystal or engraved rehaut so kinda saving work an then the edge polish works a little better, it does vary from watch to watch from what ive seen though. The maxi case doesnt have them as it would soften the look and size image
 

flashu

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checked it again today and adjusted It to +6 and 210 amp with 0.1 beat error. Thats the most amplitude I can get out of it. Not acceptable by my standard but it’s better than +44 or whatever it was when I got it. My demagnitizer is junk I think so I ordered a new one. There’s def some magnetism coming from it because it moves a compas needle.

It is 100% magnetised
I don't have for now the BP16610 as I sold it waiting for another one - I know don't ask :D

Anyway, my BP16600 (same VRmvt) on arrival did not looked very good on timegrapher, after 24 hours was very ok tested again - this was in January

Seeing your post I just checked again the 16600 and had suddenly -25 / -30 sec and 0.8 - 1.0 BE
Went now to demagnetisation tool and after 2 passes this is the results again ....so I think these get very fast magnetised around our computers, electronics whatever - is not that they have silicone spring after all :)


This is just now after demagnetised

 
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KushBandit

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Ahh but those have the lugholes where there were defined chamfers but no where near as deep as the BP case of today, the smaller chamfer just looks more finished to me where as the BP on the GMT at least 16710 they are too pronounced. But yes it does look like its be refinished as some RSC gens have them Im guessing where the case has been scuffed and it was the only way to make the edge again. If BP put in the lugholes to make them look like slightly older models they then dont need the LEC crystal or engraved rehaut so kinda saving work an then the edge polish works a little better, it does vary from watch to watch from what ive seen though. The maxi case doesnt have them as it would soften the look and size image
I was actually agreeing with you that the chamfers on the BP 5-digit is too much. I much perfer the slight bevel as per gen for a 5-digit.

The photos I posted above are of untouched gens. The holes vs no holes lugs aren't any different from each other. It comes down to who did the finishing work. Remember, Rolex outsourced the stainless steel case polishing back then.

Genuine, courtesy if Bobswatches.
 

AllanV

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is the chamfers, the polished part of the lugs? I’ve noticed that too when comparing with gen. But it seems that some gen’s might have had it (at least the ones I have found online)
 

TerryRobot

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Yes it the very edges of the case running down to the end of the lugs, there was a very small one cut on gens from the factory to stop the case being sharp and often this might get polished a little at services due to little dings on some, its just the BP GMT especially has overly shaped ones that cut to far in and then lose almost a mil on the lug to a polished surface. The chamfers were really only on the case with lug holes, and much less on the later 5 digits without lug holes, but BP seem to still cut them in, on the GMT's it is worse as I think they used an older model for the design spec that I think had larger chamfers (nicknamed the Sofia Loren, after here curvy shape) but there were not many made with that design, and i think this is where some of the more scalloped chamfers appear. they do look worse in close up pictures and are less noticeable in daily wear, apart from they tend to catch the light a little more.
BP cut Chamf on a 16710
Genuine 16710 Chamfer is cut much less into the shoulder


I think the Sub suffer less as they never really had the edges cut like that unless it was during servicing for a ding or the RSCA thought it need a polish and got carried away.
The look isnt all that a bad to the normal eye but leaves a lets defined edge. It wouldn't be so bad if the put in the lug holes as more of those cases had a little more of chamfer but nothing like BP cut in.



It just seems daft that BP are the only ones focusing on 5 digits models (which are really more attainable in the real world than the latest and greatest offer as most are double the price and hard to get hold off, so the 5 digits have more appeal, a little slicker on look too, but they fail on this minor little thing if they left it they would be almost perfect on first glance, under really close inspection not so much, I guess what annoys me more is this is something they actively do and not a limitation in manufacturing or parts, the case will come without them and then they cut them in when they dont need too. Ok rant over!
 
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Dizzy

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Well this is very interesting. Can you measure the OD of the insert? It looks like it might be gen-spec (37.65mm). That would be a very big upgrade for BP. Also the bezel not being held onto the case with a circlip and the crystal gasket being full height are nice improvements. There is also a standalone crystal retaining ring, and presumably a hytrel ring.

Hopefully there isn't a wire clip between the bezel and the retaining ring, that would not be fun. The gap there looks a little big in one area.
HNWyKD.jpeg


I always separate the bezel from the retaining ring before re-pressing the crystal, though it is possible to do so with those parts together as they are in your pics. It can be easy or not so much depending on the thickness of the crystal gasket and the space alloted for it.

And while not correct for model, the springs and balls bezel is superior even to the gen 5 digit arrangement. Just look at all the issues with the RAFARF 5 digit bezels. Coupled with a VR3136, this rep is putting in a bid for sleeper of the year right here at the end.

Since this is essentially a 6 digit bezel maybe some would find my 6-digit Sub crystal and bezel swap thread useful.

Well guess what. So I tried to take the bezel off my new all gold BP16618…. Bent the crap out of it because it’s held on with a bunch of freakin wires! OH MY GOD I am so mad. Wow it was hard to get off. And you can’t even take the insert off first and fish the wires out because there’s like a 1/2 mm Gap. And the crystal is held on with some 0.8mm tall crystal gasket and theres no retaining ring. I’m starting to hate this watch already. Movement arrives Messed up and now this.… @Nur-Uhr it’s crazy that mine different from the stainless and two tone Model. Maybe the TD just got me an old model and put a VR into it? Did the previous version have these stupid wires? @KJ2020
 
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Winni1611

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Worked on getting the Raffles serti dial into the 16613. I glued the dial on a tool iv'v made, taped a 400 grit sandpaper on my bench and pressed the dremel rotated dial softly to it.



Was an easy Job. Put it All together to see how it comes out. Nice.... Theres only a little shadow between case and dial on one side, but that will be easy to clear. Very satisfied so far.
 

KJ2020

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Did the previous version have these stupid wires? @KJ2020
Yes they all did bro. You have to remove the crystal from the inside, then you can get the insert out, then fish the wire out.

How to remove a bezel attached by a wire clip

Sorry this happened to you, you're in good company heh. Sure looks like they did what you said - put a VR into an old model case.

On a positive note I have straightened a few metal bezels, including a gen with a stout narrow board and a rubber hammer.

Place the insert on a perfectly level surface to ID the offending sector. Place that sector over the edge of the board and beat on it with the hammer. You can clamp the bezel and board to a bench but I've done it freehand.

The bezels are pretty tough and can take a good beating. Rinse and repeat til it's level again. Be patient and keep at it, sometimes you can bend too far in the other direction, etc. This has worked for me more than once, though IDK how it will impact the plating. If the bezel is already shot you have nothing to lose.
 
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Nur-Uhr

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Well guess what. So I tried to take the bezel off my new all gold BP16618…. Bent the crap out of it because it’s held on with a bunch of freakin wires! OH MY GOD I am so mad. Wow it was hard to get off. And you can’t even take the insert off first and fish the wires out because there’s like a 1/2 mm Gap. And the crystal is held on with some 0.8mm tall crystal gasket and theres no retaining ring. I’m starting to hate this watch already. Movement arrives Messed up and now this.… @Nur-Uhr it’s crazy that mine different from the stainless and two tone Model. Maybe the TD just got me an old model and put a VR into it? Did the previous version have these stupid wires? @KJ2020
Holy... You have an old BP model. I think they had some pieces from their old stuff with crazy A3135 version and took these cases also.

Actually I am curious how many different "versions" of the BP with VR3135 are on the market.
It seems BP us using parts which are laying around and is building what they have...

First with the bracelets (SD bracelets with polished sides on Subs) than with inserts of old style.
Some BP which should have VR3135 inside and had SA3135 and some SH3135 inside (totally mysterious)
Than some TwoTone and Gold Sub with the "blurple" dial and not the blue one ..
And now also this what you are writing.

In my opinion, they are taking parts they can get cause these BP SUBs are now a real hype in the entire REP world.

Guy, be careful with QC... I think the good ones were build until Dec.2023 ....
 
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AllanV

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Yes it the very edges of the case running down to the end of the lugs, there was a very small one cut on gens from the factory to stop the case being sharp and often this might get polished a little at services due to little dings on some, its just the BP GMT especially has overly shaped ones that cut to far in and then lose almost a mil on the lug to a polished surface. The chamfers were really only on the case with lug holes, and much less on the later 5 digits without lug holes, but BP seem to still cut them in, on the GMT's it is worse as I think they used an older model for the design spec that I think had larger chamfers (nicknamed the Sofia Loren, after here curvy shape) but there were not many made with that design, and i think this is where some of the more scalloped chamfers appear. they do look worse in close up pictures and are less noticeable in daily wear, apart from they tend to catch the light a little more.
BP cut Chamf on a 16710
Genuine 16710 Chamfer is cut much less into the shoulder


I think the Sub suffer less as they never really had the edges cut like that unless it was during servicing for a ding or the RSCA thought it need a polish and got carried away.
The look isnt all that a bad to the normal eye but leaves a lets defined edge. It wouldn't be so bad if the put in the lug holes as more of those cases had a little more of chamfer but nothing like BP cut in.



It just seems daft that BP are the only ones focusing on 5 digits models (which are really more attainable in the real world than the latest and greatest offer as most are double the price and hard to get hold off, so the 5 digits have more appeal, a little slicker on look too, but they fail on this minor little thing if they left it they would be almost perfect on first glance, under really close inspection not so much, I guess what annoys me more is this is something they actively do and not a limitation in manufacturing or parts, the case will come without them and then they cut them in when they dont need too. Ok rant over!
First of all thank you for elaborating and providing pictures! Very appreciated.
I could live with it, and with time and use it might "fade" a bit. But I totally get you, it is annoying that they decide to put in extra work by cut them in...
 
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AllanV

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Holy... You have an old BP model. I think they had some pieces from their old stuff with crazy A3135 version and took these cases also.

Actually I am curious how many different "versions" of the BP with VR3135 are on the market.
It seems BP us using parts which are laying around and is building what they have...

First with the bracelets (SD bracelets with polished sides on Subs) than with inserts of old style.
Some BP which should have VR3135 inside and had SA3135 and some SH3135 inside (totally mysterious)
Than some TwoTone and Gold Sub with the "blurple" dial and not the blue one ..
And now also this what you are writing.

In my opinion, they are taking parts they can get cause these BP SUBs are now a real hype in the entire REP world.

Guy, be careful with QC... I think the good ones were build until Dec.2023 ....
What are you saying Mr. Hayek, that I shouldn't get the 16610, to late to the game? :cry:
 

Winni1611

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Put the watch together, but I'm not satisfied with the Raffles DW. It has some play and does not always slip solide when changing the Date.
Will order a gen DW.


By the way, bracelet is a little small for my wrist.
Does anyone of you have a two-tone spare link ? Would make me happy 😊
 
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