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BP Re-Releases 5-Digit Submariners with VR3135

TerryRobot

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Well guess what. So I tried to take the bezel off my new all gold BP16618…. Bent the crap out of it because it’s held on with a bunch of freakin wires! OH MY GOD I am so mad. Wow it was hard to get off. And you can’t even take the insert off first and fish the wires out because there’s like a 1/2 mm Gap. And the crystal is held on with some 0.8mm tall crystal gasket and theres no retaining ring. I’m starting to hate this watch already. Movement arrives Messed up and now this.… @Nur-Uhr it’s crazy that mine different from the stainless and two tone Model. Maybe the TD just got me an old model and put a VR into it? Did the previous version have these stupid wires? @KJ2020
No the stainless Bezel is like that check out the pictures on another post BP 16710 VR3186 I think if you type in search 16710 you will find it, mine is the saem the horrible bezel wire spring on the insert which i think make mine feel a bit slack as mine it quite easy to get off (I use a bezel tool though as it makes it much easier, can get them off ebay ,ali etc...
 

flashu

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That date is way off center from photos!
 

Dizzy

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It is 100% magnetised
I don't have for now the BP16610 as I sold it waiting for another one - I know don't ask :D

Anyway, my BP16600 (same VRmvt) on arrival did not looked very good on timegrapher, after 24 hours was very ok tested again - this was in January

Seeing your post I just checked again the 16600 and had suddenly -25 / -30 sec and 0.8 - 1.0 BE
Went now to demagnetisation tool and after 2 passes this is the results again ....so I think these get very fast magnetised around our computers, electronics whatever - is not that they have silicone spring after all :)


This is just now after demagnetised

It is 100% magnetised
I don't have for now the BP16610 as I sold it waiting for another one - I know don't ask :D

Anyway, my BP16600 (same VRmvt) on arrival did not looked very good on timegrapher, after 24 hours was very ok tested again - this was in January

Seeing your post I just checked again the 16600 and had suddenly -25 / -30 sec and 0.8 - 1.0 BE
Went now to demagnetisation tool and after 2 passes this is the results again ....so I think these get very fast magnetised around our computers, electronics whatever - is not that they have silicone spring after all :)


This is just now after demagnetised
I bought a better demagnetizer and it made a big difference. It’s now -4sec and 220 amp at 0.1 beat error. I’ll have to try adjusting it again now.
 
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Snil

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Put the watch together, but I'm not satisfied with the Raffles DW. It has some play and does not always slip solide when changing the Date.
Will order a gen DW.


By the way, bracelet is a little small for my wrist.
Does anyone of you have a two-tone spare link ? Would make me happy 😊
Looks like the DW is trying to escape too lol
 

Dizzy

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Holy... You have an old BP model. I think they had some pieces from their old stuff with crazy A3135 version and took these cases also.

Actually I am curious how many different "versions" of the BP with VR3135 are on the market.
It seems BP us using parts which are laying around and is building what they have...

First with the bracelets (SD bracelets with polished sides on Subs) than with inserts of old style.
Some BP which should have VR3135 inside and had SA3135 and some SH3135 inside (totally mysterious)
Than some TwoTone and Gold Sub with the "blurple" dial and not the blue one ..
And now also this what you are writing.

In my opinion, they are taking parts they can get cause these BP SUBs are now a real hype in the entire REP world.

Guy, be careful with QC... I think the good ones were build until Dec.2023 ....
I was not happy haha. I do have a VR 3135 in there for sure so it’s a fairly new movement. I put on a Clark’s single side AR crystal and it makes the dial look 100% better. I’ve been putting these on all my watches and I love them. A Gen insert snapped right in tight But I did sand it down because the new crystal was 0.2mm thinner than the already too low BP crystal. So the thinner insert lets the crystal protrude up a little more. If I used a taller crystal gasket then you can see it above the rehaut. I might be able to do one that’s 1mm tall instead of the 0.8mm. I got it all back together and it looks pretty good. I gave the dial a little satin spray, aged the markers, and satin spray on the bezel insert to make it all look age appropriate. I guess I’m ok with it for now. I’ll probably reshape it all, add patina, drill the lug holes and have it re-plated.
 
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Dizzy

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Yep it is, thats the reason why I ordered a gen DW. They are 79 Euro used.
Wholesaleoutlet on eBay has nice open 6 and 9 datewheels for the 3135. They have them in white and champagne colour. I was going to do an overlay but it won’t work on the 3135 so I’ll have the order a couple of those datewheels. They look Pretty damn good for the $50 or whatever they cost. I guess they aren’t correct for a no lug holes case but I like the look of them. The wider digits look a lot Nicer.
 
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Winni1611

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I love the serti dials. How much did you have to take off? I should have measured my dial when I had the movement out of the case but I forgot.
It was less then I supposed. Arround 1mm and there Was enough space.
 
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KJ2020

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Put the watch together, but I'm not satisfied with the Raffles DW. It has some play and does not always slip solide when changing the Date.
Will order a gen DW.


By the way, bracelet is a little small for my wrist.
Does anyone of you have a two-tone spare link ? Would make me happy 😊
Bro your dial looks off center left in the case. Compare the length of the 2 o'clock hour tic mark to the 8 o'clock one. A correction may be possible and should probably be attempted if you are going to splurge on a gen DW. A correction would also improve the DW lateral centering issue.

This can happen if the dial wasn't perfectly centered on the die during shaving, or the dial feet may not be a good match for the VR movement. Or if you are using dial dots - they can have some give and slide horizontally with stem actuations. I always glue on new feet, or you can also just epoxy the dial right to the date plate with four small blobs in clear open areas.

There are examples of gluing on new dial feet in the threads below


Daytona Meteorite White and Black

The Hulktimate - GREEN goes GOLD!

A gen champagne DW is a nice addition, I put one in mine

16646398270810.jpg
 
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Winni1611

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Bro your dial looks off center left in the case. Compare the length of the 2 o'clock hour tic mark to the 8 o'clock one. A correction may be possible and should probably be attempted if you are going to splurge on a gen DW. A correction would also improve the DW lateral centering issue.

This can happen if the dial wasn't perfectly centered on the die during shaving, or the dial feet may not be a good match for the VR movement. Or if you are using dial dots - they can have some give and slide horizontally with stem actuations. I always glue on new feet, or you can also just epoxy the dial right to the date plate with four small blobs in clear open areas.

There are examples of gluing on new dial feet in the threads below


Daytona Meteorite White and Black

The Hulktimate - GREEN goes GOLD!

A gen champagne DW is a nice addition, I put one in mine

16646398270810.jpg
I suppose you are right. I glued the dial to the movement cause its easier to Center it. As said the Raffles DW is not such a good quality concerning the teeth. When the gen DW arrives I'll see how it looks and otherwise I will recenter the dial. Do you happen to know where I coild get a spare link for the bracelet ?
 

watcher009

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Yes, the entire side edges have to be carefully shaved inward. This decreases the chamfer proportionally to the amount of sidewall removed. So it's a tradeoff but it's been done by several competent modders.
A thought came to mind and i could be completely wrong.. so the chamfer has a polished finish whereas the rest if the lug is brushed which makes it visible/stand out. Won't giving the chamfer a brushed finish with a scotch brite pad make it blend in with the rest of the lug and almost be non-existent? Does it make sense or am I completely off as it would make it look worse?
 
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KJ2020

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A thought came to mind and i could be completely wrong.. so the chamfer has a polished finish whereas the rest if the lug is brushed which makes it visible/stand out. Won't giving the chamfer a brushed finish with a scotch brite pad make it blend in with the rest of the lug and almost be non-existent? Does it make sense or am I completely off as it would make it look worse?
Haha, well I've seen people brush entire Rolex cases so it's not such a far fetched notion. It would be difficult to do and I think it would look more unsightly to those who aren't happy with the stock chamfers, unless done by someone with great skills.

If I were going to attempt it, I would very carefully tape off the sidewalls exactly up to and including whatever strip of chamfer you want to remain. Then the only way to make brushing blend remotely well would be to blend it on the same 45° angle that the lugs are brushed with.

Brushing a lug top by hand to look correct is extraordinarily challenging. The lug curves and vertical changes can't all be contacted by sandpaper or Scotchbrite simultaneously so it's common to end up with uneven depth levels which sticks out blatantly with reflection lines.

Add to this the prospect of including yet another narrow strip with more dissimilar angles and curves, and blending it with existing 45° grains and you're looking at a task few even experienced modders would attempt.

Here's one attempt at doing what I described. This was very competent work (not mine) and about the best you could hope for. Still, it's not possible for the top of the lug to look flat when its edge has been angle cut without removing too much material.

KAOGX2.jpeg


Same lug at various angles
KAOFqt.jpeg
 
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KJ2020

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I think the wide chamfers can be gotten used to. You can see in these pics of the BP 16710 next to my gen that its chamfers are considerably more pronounced than the Sub or the gen. This difference is quite apparent in super close ups but at arm's length is much less noticeable. I never even think about it anymore and have a number of BP Subs and GMTs.

Gen-BP-7-Medium.jpg


Gen-BP-42-Medium.jpg


Gen-BP-40-Medium.jpg


Gen-BP-2-Medium.jpg
 

bowtiefanatc

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The BPs that come with VR3186’s tend to have much less chamfers too. At least in the few that I have had. Much “closer” to Gen than the really wide chamfers.
 
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dogwood

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I recently had a 5-digit BP arrive on my bench. The owner bought it recently, specifically because it was supposed to have the VR3135 movement. When I opened the case I didn’t see a VR3135 inside.



This isn’t a 3135 clone that I’ve seen (nor have I documented it in my comprehensive guide), but the shock setting (red) and beat adjustor (blue) of the movement pictured above look the same as those found on the old SA3186 (time bomb) GMT movement. Note the rounded end of the beat adjustor and steel cup of the shock setting.



A vr3135 movement has a squared off end to the beat adjustor and has a brass cup for the shock setting.




I’m not sure if this is a known issue or the result of an error on the part of the buyer or seller. But I figured this was worth sharing. The person who bought this watch before sending it to me for service is not naïve, so I think a “movement check” wouldn’t be a bad idea for anyone buying one of these watches going forward.
 

bowtiefanatc

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Many of the BPs do still come with SA3186’s. Easily identified by the silver on the red reversing wheels.

Good news is, when that dies you just swap in a VR3186.

Those cases tend to have the much wider chamfers as well.
 
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