Man Andrew got good QC.....pull trigger.
Which TD is Andrew?
I don't know all the names of the TD's
Man Andrew got good QC.....pull trigger.
Which TD is Andrew?
I don't know all the names of the TD's
Mine is fine. I don't think you should judge the date height in QC pics especially when the dealer has been manually adjusting the date. When the date changes by itself at midnight it centres fine.
I know the question has come up a few times about putting a gen crystal in a VSF 126610. I saw a post showing that one had been installed, first one I've seen.
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...mariner-126610lv-from-vsf-with-gen-dw-crystal
Rolex part # shown is B25-7017-C1-1
Are there any vendor/watchsmiths who can source parts for the 2020 subs, like this crystal?
Im waiting for the no date. I hope it’s not too long till vsf releases it
Jayalvin777
I found out the cause of the winding issue on the VS3235 and it's not the yoke for sliding gear. While working on mine, the yoke quit engaging and I noticed a post was popping up through the train bridge nearby.
3235
This post contains the crown wheel and on the VS3235 (probably gen also) the post has a very thin washer built in on it that has a curved bend in it like a dial washer. It appears this washer is meant to push down on the post, driving it away from the underside of the train bridge. When it fails to do this, the crown wheel disengages from the intermediate crown wheel (right under the yoke for sliding gear) and this is what interrupts the manual winding capability.
3235
3235
The 3135 is designed differently. It has a separate winding bridge from the train bridge, and the crown wheel is screwed directly into the underside of the winding bridge. IDK why the 3235 crown wheel isn't fixed in height - I can see no reason for it not to be, the 3135 crown wheel is fixed in height with a solid spacer called the crown wheel core. They probably just copied the gen design but that rep washer is crazy thin and cheap - worthless and causing these winding issues.
As a proof of concept, I inserted a 27 guage wire "clip" (0.361mm) onto the 3235 crown wheel post under the thin curved washer and the issue is resolved. I needed to be able to wind the movement to work on it, so I'm leaving it in for now. I'll replace that clip with a similar height spacer of some kind, maybe a nylon or SS washer with a cutout to allow for placement around the post.
Reps are so much fun to fix, ha.
Edit: Thinking about this some more, there is undoubtedly a reason for the crown wheel to be able to disengage from the intermediate crown wheel on the gen or it wouldn't have been made that way. Some kind of safety measure in the event of some other conditions. It wouldn't be to prevent over-winding I believe, or we all would have noticed the difference between winding a fully wound spring and not engaging the ratchet wheel at all. In any case, on the rep once that cheap washer starts to fail at its task there really isn't a better solution than to add a spacer and fix the crown wheel in place.
KJ2020
Have you resolve this winding failure issue on the VS3235?
For servicing purposes, which part of this intermediate wheel should get oiled? Would moebius HP-1300 be the right lubricant?
Thanks.
I made a new part (washer) to fit on the intermediate wheel bro.
I don't have a 3235 service manual. I read that they aren't available in pdf anymore but only on Rolex issued tablets. So I had to use a best guess. I put a single drop of HP-1300 on the intermediate wheel shaft.
The new washer plus lube has corrected my winding issue. You could try just lube but it may take gravity to help - you may need to turn the watch upside down to get the intermediate wheel to fall down and engage the yoke for sliding gear. Once engaged, it should stay engaged for a winding session even if you slowly turn the watch right side up again.
Rep washer on right
Are there any vendor/watchsmiths who can source parts for the 2020 subs, like this crystal?
KJ2020
Wow, that's an extremely delicate job of yours to machine such a tiny piece of washer.
Thanks for your advices about applying lub onto the wheel shaft - I presume it is the shaft underneath the wheel, right?
Do you think it can be done by removing the rotor and the plate for lubing this wheel without dislodging the movement out of the middle case?