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VSF 126610 Submariner with VS3235 Latest Movement 72 Hours Power Reserve
- Thread starter trustytime
- Start date
Mille M
I'm Pretty Popular
- 24/7/18
- 1,254
- 2,757
- 113
I made a new part (washer) to fit on the intermediate wheel bro.
I don't have a 3235 service manual. I read that they aren't available in pdf anymore but only on Rolex issued tablets. So I had to use a best guess. I put a single drop of HP-1300 on the intermediate wheel shaft.
The new washer plus lube has corrected my winding issue. You could try just lube but it may take gravity to help - you may need to turn the watch upside down to get the intermediate wheel to fall down and engage the yoke for sliding gear. Once engaged, it should stay engaged for a winding session even if you slowly turn the watch right side up again.
Rep washer on right
Gen part
You're a master mate
Keep up the good work...
Cheers
Last edited:
- 12/3/18
- 34,661
- 66,753
- 113
Thanks bro. My fix a bit crude, but it was the best I could do with stuff I had lying about. The base material I used was .15mm, sanded down to .09mm. The rep washer is .03mm. Talk about flimsy.
I couldn't find a pre-made spring clip washer with a middle hole smaller than 2.5mm, which is larger than the outer diameter of the one needed. Crazy that a tiny part worth less than 1 cent can fix a $500 watch.
Size perspective
Last edited:
- 12/3/18
- 34,661
- 66,753
- 113
Just received my spare inlay and it is marked as CLEAN see pics:
Do you have a way to a accurately measure the inner and outer diameters? Alternately, do you have a 116610 insert you can place next to it? Standing the two on edge, straight up on a hard surface will work. Try to determine if they made the 126 insert larger than the 116. Thanks.
So.. after 5 days with my watch, it seems to be running roughly -30s/day at the moment, while the QCs were showing +6s/day a couple of weeks ago.
Do any of you know if the movement is difficult to regulate? I have never done it before but don’t mind buying a timegrapher. Risky?
Otherwise, if it does bother me too much, I’ll look for a watchsmith in EU..
Do any of you know if the movement is difficult to regulate? I have never done it before but don’t mind buying a timegrapher. Risky?
Otherwise, if it does bother me too much, I’ll look for a watchsmith in EU..
Just tried to bring my watch close to my digital compass on my phone... the heading changes by 5°.. Good call! I’ll buy a demagnetizer today ????
- 12/3/18
- 34,661
- 66,753
- 113
Great work bro, much appreciated. First time we've seen that here, that matter is settled.
Magnetization isn't a black or white issue. I'd try that first, the devices come below 5 Dollars.
At this point I would like to say thank you for the quick parts delivery from TTWP https://ttwparts.com/
Simply write a mail to TTWP with a link to the watch for which you need the part and you are good to go!
I bought the watch with an broken inlay and ordered one for spare.
At the moment I leave the broken inlay because the damage is barely visible.
Simply write a mail to TTWP with a link to the watch for which you need the part and you are good to go!
I bought the watch with an broken inlay and ordered one for spare.
At the moment I leave the broken inlay because the damage is barely visible.
Does anyone REALLY prefer this to a VSF 126610? I own one, a very new one...but I’m drawn to this watch! LOL.....do I have FOMO?
Sent from my iPhone using RWI
Sent from my iPhone using RWI
Last edited:
- 13/3/16
- 1,289
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So.. after 5 days with my watch, it seems to be running roughly -30s/day at the moment, while the QCs were showing +6s/day a couple of weeks ago.
Do any of you know if the movement is difficult to regulate? I have never done it before but don’t mind buying a timegrapher. Risky?
Otherwise, if it does bother me too much, I’ll look for a watchsmith in EU..
In my experience only running +30 would indicate magnetism.
You can regulate it yourself if you're extremely careful. Proceed at your own risk. You need to nudge the steel part of the arm ever so slightly (NOT the brass part) to speed the watch up. If you see it move you have probably gone too far. It's extremely sensitive! I personally wouldn't do this without a timegrapher.
The other arm is for beat error which is likely to change when you adjust the rate. A timegrapher will show this and you can make corrections by nudging like before.
It's great to learn this, but if you're not up to it then have a watchmaker do it for you. It's not for everyone.
