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VSF 126610 Submariner with VS3235 Latest Movement 72 Hours Power Reserve

rcom440

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In those gen vs VSF insert comparison shots, from a distance, the numbers/markers on the gen look thicker, but up close they don’t look much different in terms of size. Do you think it’s the platinum that makes them appear thicker/bolder from a distance rather than them actually being thicker?

I think it looks pretty much the same as gen.
Perhaps in half light it looks thinner.
F1-A579-BF-69-F8-4-C2-C-8348-BE0-D0969-D4-EE.jpg
 

nikefit

Known Member
16/1/12
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It’s the opposite to me, to be honest.
I have fairly small wrists and tried both of em on, I have to say the newer 126610 wears much better and the thinner lugs makes it wear smaller than his older brother on steroids.
That’s just me, and it’s all about personal preference I suppose.
I agree with you, to me the 12 series feels somehow more balance on the wrist
 

Esaelias

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just reading through the posts and in general i think this watch doesnt have much flaws however are vsf rolling out different batches e.g. different clasps etc?

also does anyone have the weight compared to the gen?
 
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Enfer06

Getting To Know The Place
2/12/20
21
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In my experience only running +30 would indicate magnetism.

You can regulate it yourself if you're extremely careful. Proceed at your own risk. You need to nudge the steel part of the arm ever so slightly (NOT the brass part) to speed the watch up. If you see it move you have probably gone too far. It's extremely sensitive! I personally wouldn't do this without a timegrapher.

The other arm is for beat error which is likely to change when you adjust the rate. A timegrapher will show this and you can make corrections by nudging like before.

It's great to learn this, but if you're not up to it then have a watchmaker do it for you. It's not for everyone.




I de-magnetised the watch... went from -30 to +80s- day lol. What have I done ...?!
Seems I’m going to venture in trying to regulate the watch myself. On your picture, what is F and S ? Which way to slow ?? :)
Thanks for your help!
 

miscusi

Active Member
10/10/20
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I de-magnetised the watch... went from -30 to +80s- day lol. What have I done ...?!
Seems I’m going to venture in trying to regulate the watch myself. On your picture, what is F and S ? Which way to slow ?? :)
Thanks for your help!

did you demagnetize it PROPERLY?
 

AndyPanda

Do not accept unsolicited offers
22/3/21
4
1
3
I'm new here - I'm not sure if this is the best thread to post this or not, hope it's OK to ask here. I'm really interested in this new VSF 126610 except I really had my heart set on the Hulk color scheme and just can't seem to love the black dial as much. So this is sort of apples to oranges question but how much difference would there be in quality/reliability of movement and how well it passes for genuine (feel and look of bezel, dial, cyclops, hands and crown etc.) between the VSF 126610 Kemit and a ZF 116610 Hulk?

My priorities are how well will it keep time? How reliable is the movement? How genuine does it function and look from the outside? I have no concerns about how genuine the movement looks inside (Nobody is going to see the inside except a watchmaker and they won't be fooled so who cares?)
 

WatchSmith.US

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I de-magnetised the watch... went from -30 to +80s- day lol. What have I done ...?!
Seems I’m going to venture in trying to regulate the watch myself. On your picture, what is F and S ? Which way to slow ?? :)
Thanks for your help!

Put the watch on a timegrapher and gently push toward the S slow it or F to speed it up. If you can see the arm move, you have probably pushed it too far. Just apply some gentle pressure. Use a loupe so you can see what you're doing. It's extremely sensitive so go in very small amounts.
 
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rcom440

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Just noticed that bezel on my LV has a lot of play when I’m pushing it down, it moves towards the case. Kinda disappointing.
I know gen 116610 sub bezel moves too but its not that noticable.
 
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derjenigewelcher

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I'm new here - I'm not sure if this is the best thread to post this or not, hope it's OK to ask here. I'm really interested in this new VSF 126610 except I really had my heart set on the Hulk color scheme and just can't seem to love the black dial as much. So this is sort of apples to oranges question but how much difference would there be in quality/reliability of movement and how well it passes for genuine (feel and look of bezel, dial, cyclops, hands and crown etc.) between the VSF 126610 Kemit and a ZF 116610 Hulk?

My priorities are how well will it keep time? How reliable is the movement? How genuine does it function and look from the outside? I have no concerns about how genuine the movement looks inside (Nobody is going to see the inside except a watchmaker and they won't be fooled so who cares?)


Hi Andy and welcome here:)

OK, I understand you. New in REPs is like choosing brand of cat food when you got a new cat - no chance, to much different brands.
Serious:
If you want a Hulk, you will be good with a VSF 116610LV.
The Movement is stable, well decorated and finished. Watchmakers, like you say, see the difference easyli:) But you can look at it by yourself: Here Video and promo Photos:

https://trustytime.io/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=22094

It usually keeps time maximum +/- 7s a day, which is ok for a mechanical watch. It functions genuine, dateweel, hands-setting via crown (skrewed lock). it is 904L oyster steel (like rolex gen) and the bezel is REALLY smooth. depends on how you use it, the color in the bezel can get soften cause its not Platin like on the CF watch. this may be an option for you.

https://trustytime.io/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=22653

Hope I could help you.
 

StreetFighter

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Just noticed that bezel on my LV has a lot of play when I’m pushing it down, it moves towards the case. Kinda disappointing.
I know gen 116610 sub bezel moves too but its not that noticable.

Hytrel ring is not seated correctly. Pop the bezel off, refit the white ring properly and your done.
 

JordanEleven

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Hi friends,
how do the values look to you?

2c5ed51e1a11d2b81ff3194d65ecfdf3.jpg



Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 

JordanEleven

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Hi friends,
how do the values look to you? Amplitude is very low?
416bb45786c1f3cd7f6a359976f4bfeb.jpg



Inviato dal mio iPhone utilizzando Tapatalk
 

Jmpz

Getting To Know The Place
14/1/20
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Just receive my 126610LN today. SELs are nearly flush but I don't really mind. So satisfy with overall.
Just out of curiosity, do you get a travel case along with the watch? or do you have to buy it seperately.
 
Last edited:

bertieng

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Just put on a gen. crown onto the watch and confirms that its spec. is different to that of the rep. - with the gen. crown it won't sit flush against the case as the rep. crown does. I double checked it without having the winding stem attached onto the crown and screw down both crowns onto the watch case, it gives the same result. I am not sure if it is the rep. tube's issue causing this gap between the gen. crown and the case. It is most likely that the rep. tube is sitting too high for the gen. crown to accommodate.
 

KJ2020

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Just put on a gen. crown onto the watch and confirms that its spec. is different to that of the rep. - with the gen. crown it won't sit flush against the case as the rep. crown does. I double checked it without having the winding stem attached onto the crown and screw down both crowns onto the watch case, it gives the same result. I am not sure if it is the rep. tube's issue causing this gap between the gen. crown and the case. It is most likely that the rep. tube is sitting too high for the gen. crown to accommodate.

Just checking that your gen crown is specifically for the 126610? So far all the parts we often swap out for gen are different from the 116610 (bezel, insert, crystal, dial, etc).
 
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Richarris

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Hytrel ring is not seated correctly. Pop the bezel off, refit the white ring properly and your done.

I have the same. Is removing the beset the usual case knife and tape up case? I REALLY don't want some tiny ball bearings to pop out...
 

Richarris

Getting To Know The Place
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Thanks. Have you done one on this model? Really don't want to ruin the hytrel gasket as spares aren't easy to come by