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The AP questions thread (All the questions you want to ask about AP but were afraid to)

legend

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That's a great point! Sadly I don't have a gen 15400 or ZF 15400 bezel to compare to, but here's a pic of gen 15400. The bezel does seem noticeably thicker, no?

Actually no. It’s just angle and perspective. Trust me, the rep 15400 bezel isn’t a visual concern. It is really not meaningful to compare the rep 15400 and 15500 bezels side by side or the gen 15400 in a separate pic and angle.
APSF did the job well for the 15400 don’t worry and enjoy the watch.
 

thats_not_funny_guys

Getting To Know The Place
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What is the consensus on the APSF 15707 in white ceramic? I have heard that it is really heavy, which is odd for a ceramic and titanium watch (per TD claims).
 

speedywombat

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speedywombat

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Anyone has experience or opinion about 15500 models from IPF?

For reference,

QC pics from a guy that ordered a black dial 15500

(Mod edit: QC pics removed. But you can share 1-2 pics if you want to show the actual watch for comments, thank you)
 
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speedywombat

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For reference,

QC pics from a guy that ordered a black dial 15500

(Mod edit: QC pics removed. But you can share 1-2 pics if you want to show the actual watch for comments, thank you)
Sorry for posting the QC link, here is a pic of it
 

g00n

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Is there a guide on caseback slimming for AP Royal Oak Offshores (Tools needed and complete process) ? I know there are members on the forum that do this modification but it is something I would like to try myself 🙏 For me personally the thickness of the Offshore is what bugs me the most, closely followed by date window.
HuKD52.gif
 

g00n

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Is there a guide on caseback slimming for AP Royal Oak Offshores (Tools needed and complete process) ? I know there are members on the forum that do this modification but it is something I would like to try myself 🙏 For me personally the thickness of the Offshore is what bugs me the most, closely followed by date window.
Just to follow up I found a local metal fabricator who may be able to help shave caseback (I’m assuming screws will also need to be shaved down). I also bought a handheld dremel for my own personal testing. If it works out I will remove automatic rotor so watch will become manual wind to accommodate caseback.
 
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cotti-rottie

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Just to follow up I found a local metal fabricator who may be able to help shave caseback (I’m assuming screws will also need to be shaved down). I also bought a handheld dremel for my own personal testing. If it works out I will remove automatic rotor so watch will become manual wind to accommodate caseback.
how much are you hoping to lose? 0.7mm is what i’ve previously heard possible
 

g00n

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Just to clarify this particular watch was modded by Domi, I am hoping to achieve similar results (or mess up a few watches in the process 😂). It is also manual wind.
 
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jayaballard

Do not accept unsolicited offers
12/12/23
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Hello from Singapore!

I currently own a 15500ST from APSF v2 and I have always dreaded the lume on rep watches. Is there any way to improve the lume duration or is it necessary for a GEN dial?

Also the rotor seems to be a little stiff for comfort and the watch does stop once 1.5 days after winding. Perhaps @legend can help? :)
 

legend

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Hello from Singapore!

I currently own a 15500ST from APSF v2 and I have always dreaded the lume on rep watches. Is there any way to improve the lume duration or is it necessary for a GEN dial?

Also the rotor seems to be a little stiff for comfort and the watch does stop once 1.5 days after winding. Perhaps @legend can help? :)
The gen APs are not known for lume. This is particularly true for the Royal Oaks, which feature very small and thin areas of lumed surfaces. If lume is your thing, a Panerai, or even a Rolex submariner would be a better choice. There is nothing wrong with the lume on the rep royal oaks.

Power reserve can be a tricky thing to discuss. It all depends on how much you wear the watch, and how you start it up. The 4302 is a relatively big caliber, and needs proper handling for optimal results. So what you do is:

- from rest (zero reserve), wind it up until the second hand starts to move. This can take many winds, as per gen. It is normal.
- then wind it 30 times more.
- wear the watch a full day and remember that wearing it alone does not give it enough reserve. The wrist has to move to cause rotor oscillation which in turn causes the watch to wind. If you wear the watch and sit like a statue for 24hrs for example, it is as good as not wearing it.

So wear the watch and ensure that your wrists have moderate movement throughout. Now if that condition is fulfilled, and you remove the watch and place it overnight for say 8-10hrs and finds that it has stopped in the morning, you can conclude that it does likely have a autowinding issue. Now if your wrist is not moving enough for it to gain power reserve more than it loses, then naturally it will stop after N days or hours. So you see, saying the power reserve has an issue is not a straightforward declaration which is always true. You need to consider how the watch is being started and worn. If you see that the rotor is stuck or not oscillating smoothly, yes it can be a visual cue that the autowinding to be inhibited or debilitated. In this case, the rotor bearing assembly will need to be cleaned and the rotor re-installed.
I am not saying that your watch has no issue. But you may wish to consider what I have written and then compare it to how your watch was handled. You may be able to say with more certainty if the autowinding/power reserve of the watch is problematic then. If it really does, it will require a service or movement overhaul. Either way, you do not have to worry. It is not a difficult issue to resolve.
 

jayaballard

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12/12/23
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The gen APs are not known for lume. This is particularly true for the Royal Oaks, which feature very small and thin areas of lumed surfaces. If lume is your thing, a Panerai, or even a Rolex submariner would be a better choice. There is nothing wrong with the lume on the rep royal oaks.

Power reserve can be a tricky thing to discuss. It all depends on how much you wear the watch, and how you start it up. The 4302 is a relatively big caliber, and needs proper handling for optimal results. So what you do is:

- from rest (zero reserve), wind it up until the second hand starts to move. This can take many winds, as per gen. It is normal.
- then wind it 30 times more.
- wear the watch a full day and remember that wearing it alone does not give it enough reserve. The wrist has to move to cause rotor oscillation which in turn causes the watch to wind. If you wear the watch and sit like a statue for 24hrs for example, it is as good as not wearing it.

So wear the watch and ensure that your wrists have moderate movement throughout. Now if that condition is fulfilled, and you remove the watch and place it overnight for say 8-10hrs and finds that it has stopped in the morning, you can conclude that it does likely have a autowinding issue. Now if your wrist is not moving enough for it to gain power reserve more than it loses, then naturally it will stop after N days or hours. So you see, saying the power reserve has an issue is not a straightforward declaration which is always true. You need to consider how the watch is being started and worn. If you see that the rotor is stuck or not oscillating smoothly, yes it can be a visual cue that the autowinding to be inhibited or debilitated. In this case, the rotor bearing assembly will need to be cleaned and the rotor re-installed.
I am not saying that your watch has no issue. But you may wish to consider what I have written and then compare it to how your watch was handled. You may be able to say with more certainty if the autowinding/power reserve of the watch is problematic then. If it really does, it will require a service or movement overhaul. Either way, you do not have to worry. It is not a difficult issue to resolve.
Thanks for the comprehensive reply! I will monitor and reach out again if problems persist :)
 

xairate

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19/2/23
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Question about the AP 15720 movements in different factories.

IIUC, the movements used by different factories are:
APF --> Decorated 8215
ZF --> Decorated 9015
APSF --> Clone 4308
Out of these, 4308 is a specialized movement so if servicing may be slightly tricky (again, IIUC, pardon my ignorance otherwise)
9015 is reliable and serviceable but noisy

What about the 8215? isn't it a common movement in mid-grade r/ChinaTime pieces? Or is it reliable and just has a bad rep?
 

legend

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Question about the AP 15720 movements in different factories.

IIUC, the movements used by different factories are:
APF --> Decorated 8215
ZF --> Decorated 9015
APSF --> Clone 4308
Out of these, 4308 is a specialized movement so if servicing may be slightly tricky (again, IIUC, pardon my ignorance otherwise)
9015 is reliable and serviceable but noisy

What about the 8215? isn't it a common movement in mid-grade r/ChinaTime pieces? Or is it reliable and just has a bad rep?
The miyota movements mentioned are largely basic 3 hands movements which service the same function as the gen 4308 caliber, except for the decoration quality, the intricate appearance, the refined sounds, and the instant date change and the precision. It’s largely like going to work in a cheap car vs a luxurious one. Both get you to work and does the job, just in different ways.

The miyotas serve the rep watches well enough. The clone 4308 movements are closer to gen than the decorated miyotas imho but they still aren’t gen, though I do like the instant date change function they provide. It is also not difficult to service, don’t let anyone tell you that. The 8215 is a cheap movement and rather rattly but it does its job well enough and is economical to replace too. Don’t get too worried about the movement type. They all work and power the watch. It’s a matter of preference since none of them are the gen caliber. If you can afford it, get the clone movement, it is what I like personally as it has a fairly decent looking movement decoration, has an instant date change and can be upgraded with gen parts.
Miyotas work best if you’re concerned about the cost of maintenance and don’t mind a slow date change.
 
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Akilles

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Was wondering about the 15450 blue dial. Is it unique in the RO collection regarding color or is is there anyone that is just the same like 15400 or 15500?
 

legend

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Was wondering about the 15450 blue dial. Is it unique in the RO collection regarding color or is is there anyone that is just the same like 15400 or 15500?
The latest series of the 15400 blue dial shares the same color tone as the 15450 blue dial. The 15500 and 15510 have their own blue shades, though the 15510 "Nuage 50" blue comes close to the 15450 blue dial, but not exact.
 
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