The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[Action_Jensen]

Here is the thread if someone is interestet. have i been here for years? wow.. time flies...

1016 explorer case comparison JMB vs RUBY.

Finishing up a 1016 Explorer build for a member and had the chance to work with the Vietnam case set JMB on left. Ruby on right Overall. Dimensions are quite similar however the lugs do look a bit taller on ruby The crystal is a lot taller and way more domed than the Clark on JMB...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[Action_Jensen]

Those cases make me rethink the Raffles case. Much more work on top and botton of lugs. The sides are not enough

thought about different solutions too. the thing is gen parts have become so expensive. Maybe a viet case is the better solution (if they are gen spec) coincedentely i think about an explorer 5500 for quite some time (and luring in @dpd3672 34mm thread) and i really dont know if getting a gen 5500 and a yuki dial is quite worth it :/ if i could get one for 1500usd id probably go for it

 

[d1d1ka]

Anyone knows what dial is this ?
Is being sold on chrono24 as a 1003, comes with a 1570 movement. I don't know much about explorer or 369 dials before the 1016 ones..
Kind of a 5500 dial ? I am so confused.

 

[369mafia]

Yeah I think its a base model option for the OP 6426 model from the mid to late 60-70s .

A guy on IG has one similar 6426

 

[d1d1ka]

Yeah I think its a base model option for the OP 6426 model from the mid to late 60-70s .

A guy on IG has one similar 6426

Interesting. I still cannot find much about the dial, is it a gen or some sort of a fantasy dial?

 

[369mafia]

Interesting. I still cannot find much about the dial, is it a gen or some sort of a fantasy dial?

the account is rolextudorplanet on IG I assume its Gen, It was his Commando place holder He has since sold it I believe

 

[1675lover]

Yeah I think its a base model option for the OP 6426 model from the mid to late 60-70s .

A guy on IG has one similar 6426

This is tiny lol!

 

[369mafia]

This is tiny lol!

34mm .....Dont think its 31 or 28. do you?

 

[1675lover]

34mm .....Dont think its 31 or 28. do you?

It looks like a 34 or 31.
never held a watch of these sizes before though. Definitely not a 36

 

[automatico]

"Found this on another forum, sharing it here for reference, for anyone looking to build a Franken 1016 using a Datejust case. Side profile looks to me like the 16XX is best, although from the top, I believe it's not the best of the options. You can also see how the bezel profile is different between the 4 models."

Random notes in no particular order (with a few changes) from my posts on RWGcc as 'automatico' and 'jimmythree' (names interchanged during server meltdowns since 2007).

Many replica 'DJ' and modern replica explorer cartel cases are basically the same depending on if made for 2824 or 2836 in my experience.
Many of these cases are made for ETA 2836 and many are made for ETA 2824, my two JMB '1016' cases were made for ETA 2824 for example. All genuine 16200 had cal 3135, so a cal 3035 or ETA 2836 will not fit.

A 16200 mid case is 35.3mm wide and many replica cases are 35.5mm wide. Close enough imho. The case came with lug holes and there is plenty room to enlarge them to 1.25 or 1.3mm. Many cartel cases with lug holes will be too high or too low after drilling to 1.25 or 1.3mm. Besides that, it is a REAL HASSLE to drill accurate lug holes in a case without lug holes to start with.

The genuine 16220 mid case is 5.0mm thick and many replica cases made for ETA 2836 are 6.05mm thick +/-. My (ETA 2824) JMB mid case was approximately 5.0mm thick +/-, it is hard to measure with it all put together. Most 2836 cases are about 1mm thicker than 2824 cases. You can sometimes see the difference in them below the rounded side of the mid case and the small non rounded area where the case back meets the case.

My 16220 genuine spec bezel is 34.7mm OD...it is an ST bezel cut to fit a GS 22 crystal. Many DJ replica bezels are 35.3mm OD. The case neck on many replicas is OEM spec and the bezel ID will have to be machined to fit a 25-22 OEM spec 1016 crystal...or use a crystal for a ref 1018 with a DJ spec bezel.

The genuine 16220 case with GS 22 crystal is 13.25mm thick. Many replica 'sapphire' DJ cases are 12.65mm thick and a GS 22 will add about .5mm +/-. My JMB (ETA 2824) case with a GS 22 is 13.0mm thick. Imho, the genuine 16220 case works fine but it is a bit tall in the 'shoulders'. It also has a 5.3mm type case tube with a 6.0mm OD crown.

Rules of thumb:
A genuine 16220 case will work with a ETA 2824 and a genuine 16000 type case will work with an ETA 2836...no guarantees. A 1600 type case can be used but keep on mind it was designed to use a 'pie pan' dial and thicker movements may not fit too well. I have never used one on a '1016' project.

Lug space on my genuine 16220 case = 20.04mm.
Genuine 16220 dial seat OD = 28.0mm. Dial seat ID = 27.5mm. Genuine 16220 will work with 1016 genuine or genuine spec dial.
Many replica case dial windows and seats are too big and use oversize dials. Many genuine spec dials may not fit. A genuine 1016 dial is 27.9mm and for a 1016 project with an oversize dial window/seat, you will need the dial and movement mounted securely so it will not be off center or move around when screwing the crown down, setting time etc.

Case necks on 16xx, 16xxx, 162xx DJ and 1016 are 29.5mm OD.
Bezels for 16xx, 16xxx, 162xx are 30.4mm ID.
Bezels for 1016 are 31.0 ID.
Dials for 1016 are 27.9mm OD, same as 36mm QS DJ.

No guarantees.
Typos are free.

Pics of my 16220 '1016' 7 posts down...

Rolex Wristies thread

rwg.cc

More pics including my JMB '1016' and a story or two...

Genuine 16220 case vs replica 16200 case...

In 2008 (iirc) I stuck a '1016' together using this 16220 case and a 1570 movement with genuine dial. I took it apart soon after but still have the case. Also have a few unsigned replica '16200' type cases so I compared the two. Q...Why? A...So if anyone is going to put a '1016' together this sho...

rwg.cc

 

[369mafia]

Good Day gang,

I dont recall what page it was, 100 something 200 something.... where we were talking about printing decals for salt water etching.

I think it was @dpd3672 that was working on them ....

I want to etch some casebacks for my new found infatuation with Tudor Subs and lack of proper caseback for the 9411 \ 94110

Anyone ?

 

[dpd3672]

Good Day gang,

I dont recall what page it was, 100 something 200 something.... where we were talking about printing decals for salt water etching.

I think it was @dpd3672 that was working on them ....

I want to etch some casebacks for my new found infatuation with Tudor Subs and lack of proper caseback for the 9411 \ 94110

Anyone ?

I fiddled with the process for a bit, mostly on serial numbers and lug markings, but a case back would be a logical place where it would potentially work well. I had a template for the markings INSIDE the case back, but nothing for the outside.

 

[Karbon74]

Good Day gang,

I dont recall what page it was, 100 something 200 something.... where we were talking about printing decals for salt water etching.

I think it was @dpd3672 that was working on them ....

I want to etch some casebacks for my new found infatuation with Tudor Subs and lack of proper caseback for the 9411 \ 94110

Anyone ?

The guy who made it work is @Megahz1

 

[369mafia]

The guy who made it work is @Megahz1

I hope he chimes in and happens to have a few decal kids still available as I wanna give it a crack but that is what is holding me back

 

[Karbon74]

His thread
Thread 'DIY Serial etching - Work in progress'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/diy-serial-etching-work-in-progress.10954302/

 

[369mafia]

His thread
Thread 'DIY Serial etching - Work in progress'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/diy-serial-etching-work-in-progress.10954302/

Thank you
I recalled seeing his results but couldn't find it. I thought it was buried in this thread somewhere.

I talked to Newest dude and it would be very difficult to do this with his pentograph
JMB has long retured and he used CNC

this is the option here.:

 

[dpd3672]

Thank you
I recalled seeing his results but couldn't find it. I thought it was buried in this thread somewhere.

I talked to Newest dude and it would be very difficult to do this with his pentograph
JMB has long retured and he used CNC

this is the option here.:

It's not as sharp as a factory produced case back, but to be honest, if you intentionally overpolished the case back, it could be a very plausible result of age, wear, and patina.

 

[Karbon74]

I also bought a full kit but have been procrastinating for months

 

[d1d1ka]

34mm .....Dont think its 31 or 28. do you?

Is 34 mm for sure

 

[WatchN3RD]

It's not as sharp as a factory produced case back, but to be honest, if you intentionally overpolished the case back, it could be a very plausible result of age, wear, and patina.

I've only tested it a few times, but if extreme precision is necessary, it may help to make the design or fonts microscopically thinner than desired, as the acid will often eat away the edges just a hair. Like, if your file is in photoshop, you could probably use the stroke function on the outside edges of the font layer so the background color encroaches on the writing therefore reducing the thickness. That assumes your file is of high enough resolution, as a you may lose particular edge or seriff details with a lower resolution image/layer.
Another possibility would be to use very fine sandpaper, backed with flat stiff foam, to sand down the top portion after etching is done. In essence, it would slightly reduce the etching depth and remove any areas the etch went past the border of your desired etching area. To be clear, I'm talking very gentle sanding and probably done best with a loupe to continuously check your progress.
Just some thoughts from my experiences, but I'm certainly no expert. With that, your etching process and chemicals used will also effect how much of the etch will stay in the boundaries or gradually expand past them.