Crown look like a 5.3mm... the numbers and indexes on the dial are very différent compare to thé raffle one, smaller and more offset to thé outside, but i really liké thé finishing on thé raffle dialGen 6610 Explorer pron
Yes just slightly more inward it seems. .. or is it....splitting mmsCrown look like a 5.3mm... the numbers and indexes on the dial are very différent compare to thé raffle one, smaller and more offset to thé outside, but i really liké thé finishing on thé raffle dial
On the gen, the triangle marker is also shorter, closer to the chapter ring, and the hour markers look slimmerCrown look like a 5.3mm... the numbers and indexes on the dial are very différent compare to thé raffle one, smaller and more offset to thé outside, but i really liké thé finishing on thé raffle dial
Yes, isn't it amazing that the gen is sooo close, but still not quite thereOn the gen, the triangle marker is also shorter, closer to the chapter ring, and the hour markers look slimmer
What do u mean not quite there, it is there!Yes, isn't it amazing that the gen is sooo close, but still not quite there
I've been after a Rotary Table for a while - that one looks fine, if not a little on the small size.
I'll take a shot at your questions:I have finally reached the end of this thread - a special "thank you" and "I hate you" the amazing contributors in here, haha. I've learned way more than I ever thought, and actually feel confident in my ability to build a watch - something I never imagined.
About to join the cult with a few builds (1016 white dial, 1016 Space Dweller, 6350 Honeycomb), and had a few lingering questions that I was hoping the experts could answer...
Overall, for the 1016 builds, I was planning something like this. If I missed the mark, would love to be pointed in the right direction! Not looking to tap new crown tube threads, re-drill lugs, etc, quite yet
- For dial aging, is the main method still using weathering paints? If so, still the Tamiya ones mentioned a few times in this thread? @369mafia, especially interested in your answer on this
- For dial lume yellowing, are you guys buying dials with white lume and yellowing them, or just buying the yellowed lume dials and making minor changes?
Ex - white vs. yellow
- I assume it's fine, but dials from Yuki, etc, can have their feet cut to fit an NH38 the same way the Raffles ones can, right?
- For a 6350, what are the main differences, component-wise, vs. a 1016? Same Raffles case but with different bezel/crystal/crown/caseback? If so, could someone spoonfeed me and tell me which to get? Haha.
- NH38
- Raffles Case
- Raffles stock crown?
- Raffles stock caseback?
- @1016 lover bezel
- T21 Crystal from Clark or SK
- TBD source on dial
- Raffles NH38 hands
I have finally reached the end of this thread - a special "thank you" and "I hate you" the amazing contributors in here, haha. I've learned way more than I ever thought, and actually feel confident in my ability to build a watch - something I never imagined.
About to join the cult with a few builds (1016 white dial, 1016 Space Dweller, 6350 Honeycomb), and had a few lingering questions that I was hoping the experts could answer...
Overall, for the 1016 builds, I was planning something like this. If I missed the mark, would love to be pointed in the right direction! Not looking to tap new crown tube threads, re-drill lugs, etc, quite yet
- For dial aging, is the main method still using weathering paints? If so, still the Tamiya ones mentioned a few times in this thread? @369mafia, especially interested in your answer on this
- For dial lume yellowing, are you guys buying dials with white lume and yellowing them, or just buying the yellowed lume dials and making minor changes?
Ex - white vs. yellow
- I assume it's fine, but dials from Yuki, etc, can have their feet cut to fit an NH38 the same way the Raffles ones can, right?
- For a 6350, what are the main differences, component-wise, vs. a 1016? Same Raffles case but with different bezel/crystal/crown/caseback? If so, could someone spoonfeed me and tell me which to get? Haha.
- NH38
- Raffles Case
- Raffles stock crown?
- Raffles stock caseback?
- @1016 lover bezel
- T21 Crystal from Clark or SK
- TBD source on dial
- Raffles NH38 hands
Thank you for the reply! Very helpful.I'll take a shot at your questions:
Weathering paints are probably the easiest to use, and give very good results, but there are tons of methods that people have come up with. If you're just starting out, I'd recommend the Tamiya paints, they're pretty hard to mess up.
I think most here prefer to get the white indices and weather them their own way. The yellow ones are intended to look aged already, but the effect isn't as good as the random effects that DIY gives.
Any dial can have the feet cut to fit just about any movement. you'd just have to attach new feet or use dial stickers/dots to secure the dial to the movement.
Your parts list looks good, and Raffles is a great way to get your feet wet in watch building. Good quality, cheap prices, and lots of information to google if you hit a snag (you can also search for "Riyi" instead of Raffles, as that's the name of their Ebay store, and what a lot of other forums refer to them as). What you're building is a great start, and probably the best bang for the buck. You can improve on any of the items, but generally at a considerable bump up in price.
Yes I still use weathering paints to age dials , it gives it a nice sun faded look , to dirty up the lume or to dirty the dial surface.
I usually get a white lume dial and age it with an air brush candy paint that darkens in layers. I dilute it with water and apply with an oiler
My apologies in advance for the domestic unrest you may experience hahahThank you so much for the reply! Your builds have been the biggest corrupting influence - will be sure to blame you to my wife when she sees what I'm doing, haha.
Any specific color(s) for the airbrush paint?
Sometimes I don't know if it's the watch itself...the materials, design, and layout...or the age and patina that draw me to vintage watches. The black dial fading to flat brown, the indices fading to a warm beige, the metallic hands losing their gloss, and the once shiny stainless developing an assortment of random scratches that dull and scatter reflections. It's just beautiful.
I just like old stuff.
Just a heads up to you (and all), Raffles made a short run (100 dials) of the Mark 2 design/colors. I'm not sure if he's going to have them on the website, but now is the time to reach out to them if you're interested in that one. I had no success finding it anywhere else, so he obliged my request to make a short run of them.they made a release in 2023 of this one.
I was a noob at that time, this 1016 is my second build ever.
i lucked out