The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[Erect]

I just upscaled and exported mine to png, as my previous upload seems quite small. Hopefully this works. This way you can take a closer look at some of the details and imperfections.

 

[Erect]

Like I said, not a single letter or number was typed. Hence if you zoom in nothing looks 100% identical. I'm not certain what would be preferred?
It's safe to say the hour "bar" indicators should be centered with the thicker minute indicators, right?
(Sorry for the chain of messages, I can't edit previously typed messages)

 

[Erect]

No offense taken. I sent a bunch of screen shots of dials, and a bunch of the jpgs from the Decal Printed dials thread to an artist on FFiver, who cleaned them up and converted them to vector files. They do have flaws, and could probably benefit from some tweaking, but it does allow me to print decal dials without the pixelation that comes from using smaller jpg images.

I paid quite a bit to convert a couple hundred files that I had, and some are very good, while some need a bit of work. If you're familar with working with svg files (I am not, lol) you could probably tweak them to fix the flaws. I'm happy to share them, if you're happy to share any "improvements" that you make with me and anyone else in the community bit by the bug (basically, the folks in this thread, lol).

Ah! I understand. Well, the artist did indeed seem to create the dials from scratch. And the "flaws" you mention is precisely why I was afraid to do the same. The slightest misalignment, wrong spacing, position etc... is something almost inevitable.

I'm just tinkering around and messing about, but If I do produce something worth printing I'll show it here and anyone who wants the svg can contact me. (This to prevent it falling into the wrong hands, being used for profit etc...) How does that sound?

 

[dpd3672]

When I tried converting scans to vectors using software, it did distort some of the images and fonts. I think it's just a shortcoming of the conversion algorithm. That's why I had someone else do it for me.

 

[dpd3672]

Ah! I understand. Well, the artist did indeed seem to create the dials from scratch. And the "flaws" you mention is precisely why I was afraid to do the same. The slightest misalignment, wrong spacing, position etc... is something almost inevitable.

I'm just tinkering around and messing about, but If I do produce something worth printing I'll show it here and anyone who wants the svg can contact me. (This to prevent it falling into the wrong hands, being used for profit etc...) How does that sound?

Perfect!

 

[Karbon74]

I am so unbearably angry with myself right now. I fucked up my 14060 AliX case. It’s a cheap one but man I fucked up.

It’s cold and windy outside but the weather was clear. So I decided to do the lugs drilling.
As it was cold I started with 1.1mm instead of my usual routine 1.0 « to gain time »…snap

Ok. I start again with 1.0 . All good
First hole at 1.1 perfect
And on second hole I feel over confident…I ram it and of course I was off centre. drill slips and burns a hole right beside the true, and snap again.

FML

I was so disgusted that I just stopped. until it’s not at least 18ºC outside, I am not doing any dremel work. I am done

 

[dpd3672]

I am so unbearably angry with myself right now. I fucked up my 14060 AliX case. It’s a cheap one but man I fucked up.

It’s cold and windy outside but the weather was clear. So I decided to do the lugs drilling.
As it was cold I started with 1.1mm instead of my usual routine 1.0 « to gain time »…snap

Ok. I start again with 1.0 . All good
First hole at 1.1 perfect
And on second hole I feel over confident…I ram it and of course I was off centre. drill slips and burns a hole right beside the true, and snap again.

FML

I was so disgusted that I just stopped. until it’s not at least 18ºC outside, I am not doing any dremel work. I am done

Thank God you weren't working on something more expensive!

Maybe it's not a total loss. If you can line up the holes, it's possible a leather strap or NATO would still work.

 

[Karbon74]

Thank God you weren't working on something more expensive!

Maybe it's not a total loss. If you can line up the holes, it's possible a leather strap or NATO would still work.

Nah, total loss
I can’t see that case again

That said, I will use it to practice crystal swaps

 

[369mafia]

If I am reading that correctly you drilled another hole next to the lug hole on the case?

 

[Karbon74]

If I am reading that correctly you drilled another hole next to the lug hole on the case?

Yeah, and the drill snapped into it.

 

[1016 lover]

It seem that mochacha update prices

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www.befr.ebay.be

 

[automatico]

"It’s cold and windy outside but the weather was clear. So I decided to do the lugs drilling."

Been there.
I've drilled quite a few lug holes out in the garage at temps under 32F, teeth chattering, drill bit chattering...until it broke off.

"As it was cold I started with 1.1mm instead of my usual routine 1.0 « to gain time »…snap."

Many of my happy lug stories have the same sad ending...Snap!
I ended up with a few cases looking like porcupines with broken drill bits sticking out of the lugs.

'Ok. I start again with 1.0. All good
First hole at 1.1 perfect.
And on second hole I feel over confident…I ram it and of course I was off centre. drill slips and burns a hole right beside the true, and snap again."

At the end of my unintended miniature porcupine manufacturing endeavor (UMPME for short), I ended up using only cobalt drill bits, a pretty good table mounted drill press, drill only one (.1mm) step at a time with plenty cutting oil, and a case holder that keeps the case solidly mounted while drilling.

BUT...this only offers success (most of the time) when drilling through lugs that already have holes. As for 'blind' lugs, everyone is on their own.
So far, I have drilled accurate holes in one DJ case that turned out Ok (first try on blind lugs) and a few other blind luggers since then by starting the holes using a 'ball end' cutter bit. Ball end bits do not 'walk' on the rounded lug surface when starting the hole. As soon as the ball bit cuts a pretty good dent in the lug, I change over to a regular cobalt drill bit.

eBay item number 193846321603 shows what the ball end cutters look like. They are not cheap, but I figured all the tools I needed ended up costing le$$ than a pile of stainless steel porcupines.

Here is the blind lug DJ but the finished lug holes do not show, about 22 posts down...

Rolex Wristies thread

rwg.cc

 

[Karbon74]

I think my lesson learned (again) is never to take shortcuts with craftsmanship

And avoid working in the cold.

 

[Got20Mate]

So cases...looking over the options available, I came up with this list. Please advise if there's anything to add or subtract or shuffle.

1016 cases available for builds, from best to worst:

1. Gen 1016...obviously
2. JMB...no longer available new, still pop up M2M, but infrequently. These are legendary, but the maker retired from the business.
3. Datejust 16XXX. Not quite right in the lug profile, but very good and adaptable to lots of different movements. Would have incorrect lug engravings, however.
4. Datejust 16XX. A little farther from #3, but still not bad. Same as above, the lug engravings would be incorrect, but some would be a bit closer since they were pre-"Orig Rolex Design" and said "Registered Design" like a gen 1016.
5. There's more than a few gen Rolex cases in 36mm that might qualify for a 1016 build. I haven't scrutinized all of the 36mm cases against gen 1016, and Rolex 36mm cases are getting damn expensive, but there are probably more than a few reference numbers that would rate very high on the list.
6. Raffles. Not perfect out of the box, but very good, and with some case work, it can be very close to gen. OOTB, they're #5, with case work, they're #2 or #3.
7. AliX. Not every one, but there are a few on the site that have potential. They're about half the cost of Raffles, but generally sterile, many have no lug holes and/or sapphire crystals, but they're cheap and not a bad basis for a build. They would require lug and case back engraving, lug holes drilled (if they come without, some have the holes drilled) and a new crown, crystal and possibly bezel. If you have the parts, skills, and tools, they're an attractive option, but if you don't, Raffles removes a lot of items from the "to do" list for not much more money.
8. Tiger Concepts. Decent cases at decent prices, but have roughly the same requirements as the Raffles and AliX cases. Not available with Rolex crowns or case backs, for about the same price as Raffles, so more work and parts required for about the same cost as Raffles.
9. BP and/or Cartel/JKF. They're not sold as case sets, generally as complete watches only, with a 2813 or 2836 movement. Quite a few serious defecits, most notably no case holes drilled, but adding as options since they can be made respectable with enough work. Probably the worst starting point, since they're expensive for what you get and what needs to be done, but if you happen to have one of these cases on hand (or get a screaming deal on one) they can be made quite respectable, with the right work.

Not listed are the various options from Vietnam and S Korea, since I don't have much experience with them, and they're generally more expensive than a used gen Rolex 16XX or 16XXX case. Reported to be very good for quite a bit of money, however. Probably rank around #2, #3, or #4 if sorted into the above list.

Any thoughts, or anything I'm missing?

Really helpful this nice one - Allows me to mess around at the lower end of the scale without spending too much money / messing up perfectly nice cases!

 

[Karbon74]

manufacturing endeavor (UMPME for short), I ended up using only cobalt drill bits

I use tungsten carbide bits.
they are perfectly fine

Every single time I messed up, it was always because I rushed

 

[Hayst]

Just a question. Have you fellas seen the Tudor 36mm case back on Raffles?
Here.

 

[Hayst]

Would be really nice if it fit the 34mm mid case.

 

[369mafia]

Yeah, and the drill snapped into it.

I just upscaled and exported mine to png, as my previous upload seems quite small. Hopefully this works. This way you can take a closer look at some of the details and imperfections.

it looks great however on the 6610 the numerals should be more svelte in appearance . Those blocky numerals are atypical of some viet dials offered from Ruby , etc.

 

[Erect]

it looks great however on the 6610 the numerals should be more svelte in appearance . Those blocky numerals are atypical of some viet dials offered from Ruby , etc.

Any chance you could illustrate the difference with some examples? This was made based off a genuine 6610 service dial.
If you happen to have clear front facing picture of a non service genuine 6610 dial... I could make the vector again.

 

[Erect]

A genuine 6610 dial, in good shape, without hands preferably... So I can "draw over it" to make the vector.