Any chance you could illustrate the difference with some examples? This was made based off a genuine 6610 service dial.
If you happen to have clear front facing picture of a non service genuine 6610 dial... I could make the vector again.
I tried the same,m on Fiverr, and I initially got a shitty photoshop job using the "cutout" or "paint daubs", etc filter, followed by select all, "convert to paths."No offense taken. I sent a bunch of screen shots of dials, and a bunch of the jpgs from the Decal Printed dials thread to an artist on FFiver, who cleaned them up and converted them to vector files. They do have flaws, and could probably benefit from some tweaking, but it does allow me to print decal dials without the pixelation that comes from using smaller jpg images.
I paid quite a bit to convert a couple hundred files that I had, and some are very good, while some need a bit of work. If you're familar with working with svg files (I am not, lol) you could probably tweak them to fix the flaws. I'm happy to share them, if you're happy to share any "improvements" that you make with me and anyone else in the community bit by the bug (basically, the folks in this thread, lol).
Point is... it's an artist's interpretation of an artist's work. It's not an algorithm that is designed to fit most applications.I tried the same,m on Fiverr, and I initially got a shitty photoshop job using the "cutout" or "paint daubs", etc filter, followed by select all, "convert to paths."
Anything of substance needs a human touch. Here's a regular 8.5 x 11 sized paper where I drew it by hand because AI just can't replicate the human touch. It has its flaws, but those are the flaws of a human. Algorithms can't replicate the human element unless your initial specimen is already perfect.
Where does one find this HR dial?A mochacha dial appeared in the classifieds for a good price, I am pleased with the HR dial but I was curious if the Mochacha dial would be a step up.
Arrived today and I’m very pleased with it the printing is really crisp and the lume has a nice 3D texture to it.
(HR on left)
[url=https://clickpix.org/image/2633C734-6F1A-46F1-9968-5AF6F0C0EAD6.3grkts] [/URL]
The problem now is my hands (new white lume) do not match the aged lume of the dial. Could anyone recommend any good options to achieve a similar colour?
I did a good bit of searching and I think this is my current preference (link below) as it looks like a good novice option I’m just wondering if it will give me the desired colour?
Tinting lume with tea
Crap, I just noticed the high resolution picture I used as a basis must've been from a photo with a more round crystal or a taken from macro lens. The "TER PERPE" in Oyster Perpetual is totally warped. Still easier to fix than a blurred hi-resolution photo, but it's worth noting for anyone who might be in search of the right photo to replicate an unaffordable dial.I tried the same,m on Fiverr, and I initially got a shitty photoshop job using the "cutout" or "paint daubs", etc filter, followed by select all, "convert to paths."
Anything of substance needs a human touch. Here's a regular 8.5 x 11 sized paper where I drew it by hand because AI just can't replicate the human touch. It has its flaws, but those are the flaws of a human. Algorithms can't replicate the human element unless your initial specimen is already perfect.
To answer your question: two things can be true at once.Not sure of other members experiences, but I have noted that when I shew something I have put together and make sure to explain the watch is NOT a Rolex/Tudor...not one single person is able to identify the tells. Oh they are full of bullshit about how they could tell.
But not a single solitary one knows why.
So the question here is...are we just a pack of oddities because we can spot a fake Explorer from across a room and correctly identify the tells...or are we just frustrated wannabe nerds?
Not sure of other members experiences, but I have noted that when I shew something I have put together and make sure to explain the watch is NOT a Rolex/Tudor...not one single person is able to identify the tells. Oh they are full of bullshit about how they could tell.
But not a single solitary one knows why.
So the question here is...are we just a pack of oddities because we can spot a fake Explorer from across a room and correctly identify the tells...or are we just frustrated wannabe nerds?
Not sure of other members experiences, but I have noted that when I shew something I have put together and make sure to explain the watch is NOT a Rolex/Tudor...not one single person is able to identify the tells. Oh they are full of bullshit about how they could tell.
But not a single solitary one knows why.
So the question here is...are we just a pack of oddities because we can spot a fake Explorer from across a room and correctly identify the tells...or are we just frustrated wannabe nerds?
Okay then...nerds it is.WE do obsess over the details as if we were going to run into a vintage watch expert at every corner who is going to grill us about our watches but the reality , NOBODY CARES enough to even care . Especially about the explorer. A sub , gmt or daytona gets more attention but a 1016 is the black sheep for sure.
What Mark is this supposed to be? Does not appear to be a MK5 dial? Not an MK 4 either (elongated coronet).My 80’s 1016 daily
JMB caseset
Yuki dial /hands
Swiss eta