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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

369mafia

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Sorry last one. Did a bit of editing to the pic to correct and enhance the details specifically of the dial.

Magical. 😍

I will be enlarging the end links today to hopefully fit 2.0mm spring bars for more confidence.
they are pretty tight and had to dig out the puny bars for the test fit.



 
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dpd3672

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So cases...looking over the options available, I came up with this list. Please advise if there's anything to add or subtract or shuffle.

1016 cases available for builds, from best to worst:

  1. Gen 1016...obviously
  2. JMB...no longer available new, still pop up M2M, but infrequently. These are legendary, but the maker retired from the business.
  3. Datejust 16XXX. Not quite right in the lug profile, but very good and adaptable to lots of different movements. Would have incorrect lug engravings, however.
  4. Datejust 16XX. A little farther from #3, but still not bad. Same as above, the lug engravings would be incorrect, but some would be a bit closer since they were pre-"Orig Rolex Design" and said "Registered Design" like a gen 1016.
  5. There's more than a few gen Rolex cases in 36mm that might qualify for a 1016 build. I haven't scrutinized all of the 36mm cases against gen 1016, and Rolex 36mm cases are getting damn expensive, but there are probably more than a few reference numbers that would rate very high on the list.
  6. Raffles. Not perfect out of the box, but very good, and with some case work, it can be very close to gen. OOTB, they're #5, with case work, they're #2 or #3.
  7. AliX. Not every one, but there are a few on the site that have potential. They're about half the cost of Raffles, but generally sterile, many have no lug holes and/or sapphire crystals, but they're cheap and not a bad basis for a build. They would require lug and case back engraving, lug holes drilled (if they come without, some have the holes drilled) and a new crown, crystal and possibly bezel. If you have the parts, skills, and tools, they're an attractive option, but if you don't, Raffles removes a lot of items from the "to do" list for not much more money.
  8. Tiger Concepts. Decent cases at decent prices, but have roughly the same requirements as the Raffles and AliX cases. Not available with Rolex crowns or case backs, for about the same price as Raffles, so more work and parts required for about the same cost as Raffles.
  9. BP and/or Cartel/JKF. They're not sold as case sets, generally as complete watches only, with a 2813 or 2836 movement. Quite a few serious defecits, most notably no case holes drilled, but adding as options since they can be made respectable with enough work. Probably the worst starting point, since they're expensive for what you get and what needs to be done, but if you happen to have one of these cases on hand (or get a screaming deal on one) they can be made quite respectable, with the right work.
Not listed are the various options from Vietnam and S Korea, since I don't have much experience with them, and they're generally more expensive than a used gen Rolex 16XX or 16XXX case. Reported to be very good for quite a bit of money, however. Probably rank around #2, #3, or #4 if sorted into the above list.

Any thoughts, or anything I'm missing?
 
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369mafia

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came across this the other day and thought I would share it here to help anyone that has difficult fitting a seconds hand to a watch so I thought I would share it here a a build thread.
 

Ukrop

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came across this the other day and thought I would share it here to help anyone that has difficult fitting a seconds hand to a watch so I thought I would share it here a a build thread.
This is awesome!
I wish there was a tiny robot that resets manual works for 2824...
 

GenuineFool

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Finished a few Franken builds today, 34mm Explorers and Tudors.

Finishing the 6098 tomorrow and pondering what to do next. 1016 or 55xx?

First question: How many watches do you own?

Second question: Do you know where you are posting? This is the 1016 Appreciation Thread, not the 55xx Appreciation Thread. So I think you have your answer. ;)
 

dpd3672

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look fwd to seeing them done!!

Im working on milsubs
I’m dying to do a 5517, just want to do one style at a time to focus on each type and work the bugs out of the process. Been learning a lot about explorers, and far from through with them, but it’s getting hard to explain to the gf how each one is different from the other, lol.
 

Hayst

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Something useful for today. Dry emulsion paint just wipes off a shiny plex with a hanky and warm water.

The front fence is finished as well.
 
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Hayst

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Must be reasonably water resistant as well as I dropped it into the hand basin and gave the watch a good scrub with warm water and hand soap...doesn't seem to be any issues.

The watch is on day thirteen and is eighteen seconds fast. It seems to have settled in to just about one second per day fast.

For a bitsa made up of all sorts...I will take it as a win.


 

Hayst

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Quick question...and I considered posting it in the Tudor or Vintage section, but figured most of the innovative builders visit here more often, so forgive me yet another off-topic query:

When we build a Rolex around a 2824 or NH38, a date window overlay must be used to align the date with the cyclops. On a Tudor build, which uses a 2824 in gen, what do we do about lining up the crystal so the cyclops aligns with the stock 2824 date wheel?

I can't seem to find Tudor specific crystals in the usual spots, only ones for Rolex, which have the cyclops correct for the 15XX or 10XX Rolex movement, but wrong for the 2824.

I'm building a Tudor with a gen case, dial, and hands, but using an A2824 movement, which was correct for the gen, and the date doesn't line up correctly. I even swapped the complete date wheel with one using the correct Tudor font (serifs), but don't want to randomly order crystals hoping to find the right one.
I am not quite sure what you mean, the below is a watch I built for my daughter on a gen Tudor case, a Raffles dial, and an eta 2824-2 top grade fitted with an alix date wheel.

It all lines up.


OKAY...apart from the frigging hour and minute hands...I must have been asleep.

And boy...isn't she giving me grief about it!




 
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dpd3672

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I am not quite sure what you mean, the below is a watch I built for my daughter on a gen Tudor case, a Raffles dial, and an eta 2824-2 top grade fitted with an alix date wheel.

It all lines up.


OKAY...apart from the frigging hour and minute hands...I must have been asleep.

And boy...isn't she giving me grief about it!




Yes, that crystal is for a 2824, the cyclops is much closer to the edge.

My issue is that I can't seem to find Tudor-specific crystals. Everything seems to be for Rolex or claims to be interchangeable, which has the cyclops closer to the center. Here's my very similar build with a gen cyclops. The dial, hands, and case are all Gen Tudor, for a 2824, but I can only find crystals for a 1570…I even used a Tudor date wheel (not overlay) on the a2824 movement.

I even tried it on a Jubilee like yours but changed my mind…now you have me second guessing myself, lol.
 
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Erect

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Yes, that crystal is for a 2824, the cyclops is much closer to the edge.

My issue is that I can't seem to find Tudor-specific crystals. Everything seems to be for Rolex or claims to be interchangeable, which has the cyclops closer to the center. Here's my very similar build with a gen cyclops.

Maybe lobtime is of use to you?
 
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