The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[eBoy]

well don't read this thread then. It's like eating in a fancy restaurant. You don't want to see what the Chefs are doing and what they put in it

@369mafia knows what I mean...

Unfortunately, I have to read it to make sure my friend Pikachu behaves well and is not being a naughty little Pokémon!

 

[Geonor]

I'm originally and still mostly an Omega guy, but I agree, the offerings for vintage ones are VERY slim. The AliX Pie Pan Constellations and the Milspec Seamaster 300s are the only ones I'm familiar with.

There was also the seamaster 120 at one point that I'm still trying to get an example of. It's still around as a case kit for a gen cal 562/567 and I might pick one of those up one day.

 

[Karbon74]

Unfortunately, I have to read it to make sure my friend Pikachu behaves well and is not being a naughty little Pokémon!

you can be Squirtle

 

[eBoy]

Sorry who are

 

[Karbon74]

Last night , I aged the raffles mk2 dial

From this to that

The lume is definitely a workable colour. Not too bright or lemony.
I used only weathering dry paints

First a brown to dirty up the lume a bit to break up the evenness in the colour adding a brown dusting tones down the colour and gives it a bit closer to a toasted almond colour

Then the white weathering on the Center area for the appearance of sun faded effect.

Unlike my milsub. I am going to seal in the finish with a matt spray and I am going to try and get as flat and even as possible so I will be applying the finish directly to the dial surface. Hope that it doesn’t degrade the aging effects.


I stumbled across this pic the other day on IG of a gen sub dial , with a similar dial effect from uv exposure. My first attempt at this style of aging was on the Tudor sub dial where I covered the entire dial I find doing the center in a gradual fade towards the outer edge creates alot of visual interest.

that centre sun fade is goals
i need to figure this out

 

[eBoy]

you can be Squirtle

Had to look it up.

I feel more like Wartortle. But apparently that's just an evolution of Squirtle?

 

[Karbon74]

Had to look it up.

I feel more like Wartortle. But apparently that's just an evolution of Squirtle?

the 1016 gang is going to kill us for the off topic...but here is the dig you missed.
You'd be more of the squirt than the turtle.

 

[eBoy]

that centre sun fade is goals
i need to figure this out

Are you good at this stuff?

I have a Vintage Seamaster that has an 'old' case, but dial and hands are not harmonic (too new).

Since we are the Pokémons of RWI, I thought maybe you can add some fake patina for free... you know, to help a fellow Pokémon brother out.

 

[Karbon74]

Are you good at this stuff?

I have a Vintage Seamaster that has an 'old' case, but dial and hands are not harmonic (too new).

Since we are the Pokémons of RWI, I thought maybe you can add some fake patina for free... you know, to help a fellow Pokémon brother out.

I am starting out. The real deal are @369mafia @316lad and @1016 lover

but yes, if you are willing to take the risk, I'll do it for you no problem

The real joy though is to do it yourself. It's not hard really, once someone points out the technique and you try on a cheapo first.
Just on this page, you have
-how to create texture on the dial
-how to oxidise the hands

 

[eBoy]

I am starting out. The real deal are @369mafia @316lad and @1016 lover

but yes, if you are willing to take the risk, I'll do it for you no problem

The real joy though is to do it yourself. It's not hard really, once someone points out the technique and you try on a cheapo first.
Just on this page, you have
-how to create texture on the dial
-how to oxidise the hands

My mistake is, I always work on the worst possible watches instead of cheap training objects.

 

[Karbon74]

My mistake is, I always work on the worst possible watches instead of cheap training objects.

pic?

 

[eBoy]

I'll look into the necessary chemicals... If I fail, you just visit me in the hospital @Karbon74 and I'll give you the watch to work on instead.

 

[eBoy]

pic?

I'll look up the link and PM it to you. It's actually somewhere on RWI...

 

[eBoy]

I pm'ed it...

But I'll post it here too, in case anyone is interested in giving advice. The state is still as in this thread. Case & bezel look OK (not really, but for a 1st attempt), but the dial & hands are brand new...

My first attempt at artificial patina: 300 Seamaster 166.0324

Got this a while ago from Hont as base for my first amateur attempt at aging a watch, so be gentle please. Lol I tried the coffee thing (liquid coffee on the markers) on the dial markers and hands to age them, which of course was a disaster. I had to clean up the dial afterwards and luckily it...

forum.replica-watch.info

 

[Geonor]

I trained my casework skills on Seiko mods before graduating to Rolex mods. This one used to be a modern sub case before I shaved it down to a 5 digit shape and polished it back up.

 

[369mafia]

I pm'ed it...

But I'll post it here too, in case anyone is interested in giving advice. The state is still as in this thread. Case & bezel look OK (not really, but for a 1st attempt), but the dial & hands are brand new...

My first attempt at artificial patina: 300 Seamaster 166.0324

Got this a while ago from Hont as base for my first amateur attempt at aging a watch, so be gentle please. Lol I tried the coffee thing (liquid coffee on the markers) on the dial markers and hands to age them, which of course was a disaster. I had to clean up the dial afterwards and luckily it...

forum.replica-watch.info

it looks good. just go back through this thread and use some of the techniques me and others have done . Those vintage seamasters are sweet one of these are on my to do list.

 

[Karbon74]

it looks good. just go back through this thread and use some of the techniques me and others have done . Those vintage seamasters are sweet one of these are on my to do list.

same

 

[dpd3672]

This is a VERY early working copy, but I'm gonna try my hand at some saltwater etching of cases. I made this up at work and printed it on electronic transfer paper for printing circuit boards. In theory, it should give enough resistance so the etching fills in the light parts but leaves the black parts alone. I owe all the inspiration and the head start to the saltwater etching thread started by @Megahz1


Not ready to try on real cases yet, but if it works out, it should be a huge upgrade to Raffles cases, on the cheap.

As many of you know, the Raffles crown and case back are marked correctly (or mostly correctly...not nitpicking font size and such), but the cases themselves are sterile. All that's needed is to add the "REGISTERED DESIGN/(Model Number)" to one side and "STAINLESS STEEL/ (Serial Number)" to the other.

Printed on A4 or Letter paper, and cut out along the guide lines, it should be ~19-20mm exactly. If it's a bit too small, nail polish over the bare metal should fix things. It will probably need to be tweaked a bit to get dialed in.

Sharing the initial working copy here, so anyone with more patience or skills can refine it or modify it to their own liking. Most of the numbers 0-9 are in the etching post, the ones that aren't I copied and tweaked a bit so every number 0-9 should be available .

It won't let me share it as a word document or pdf, but this is a screen shot of it, if it helps any.

 

[Karbon74]

nice !

not sure I understand the transfer paper part? The letters are not "cut" but printed?

 

[dpd3672]

nice !

not sure I understand the transfer paper part? The letters are not "cut" but printed?

The design is transferred to the case, like an iron on t-shirt. Once it's on the case, it resists current. Then you use a small current to etch the metal.
The current follows the path of least resistance, who it bypasses everywhere that's black on the print, and goes straight to the white part, if that makes any sense.
Playing with it now, I'll snap some photos so it'll be more clear.