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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

dpd3672

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You can put the original file on a Google Drive or any cloud. Then you can post the link 😁
Thanks, I hadn't thought of that!

Sharing what I have for anyone interested in some of these DIY projects:

Gilt Dials (Print on waterslide paper, slide onto blank dial):
Case Lug engraving for saltwater etching (print on electronic heat transfer paper, or laser cut from decal paper) This is original, made from screen shots (not as good):
Case Lug engraving...better quality, but font isn't perfect. Same as above:
Google seems to have reformatted some of the documents, but they should be fixable with a few small tweaks.
 
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Caboose

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You will see smoke and smell chlorine gas. This is normal.
I'm guessing chlorine gas isn't all too great for the lungs and if you can smell it. Is there some danger here that can be mitigated by decent ventilation?
 

dpd3672

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I'm guessing chlorine gas isn't all too great for the lungs and if you can smell it. Is there some danger here that can be mitigated by decent ventilation?
The research I've done on this process...mostly involving people printing circuit boards...suggests it's not something you'd want to do in a closet, but any room with decent ventilation should work. Worst case scenario, do it in the bathroom with the exhaust fan on, or over your cook top with the vent going, or outside.
It's such a small amount produced, I didn't have any issues myself. Standard disclaimer applies...do this at your own risk, I'm not a scientist, doctor, or professional watchmaker, just a hobbyist that's stumbled into a potentially valuable resource.
This isn't going to rival the pantograph engraving that professionals do, but for something that's hidden by the lugs, it looks pretty damn good.
 
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Caboose

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You can buy a 3M mask for about 35€
else, do it outside. the work kit is super small.
and hold your breath while you apply the tip
I don't think an N95 is gonna filter chlorine gas unfortunately. P100 maybe? Regardless, doing outside seems like a good way to mitigate the risk.
 

pullthat92

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and I am done 😁
a few things left to consider:
-the bezel is too "new" need to age it a bit but not too much. just a few dings
-color of hands and dial is not same. hands are lighter but the effect on them is so nice
-waiting for the 455B to put the bracelet but I found an old Ferragamo strap that I repurposed.
It's a beautifully carved case. I really like the straight lugs.
Due to personal circumstances, it's hard to install a large rotating lathe in the house, so I'm trying to carve with a small drill, but I'm not sure if the motor power will be sufficient.
Shape it with 120 grit and finish with 400 grit...


And I wonder if this fluffy thing can be used for polishing as well.

 

automatico

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"what spring bars do you use?"

"I used the Cousins ones but they protrude from the lugs...So I savagely cut them, but surely there is a better way?"


For '1016' projects, I use regular 20mm 55xx/1680 etc. aftmkt spring bars.
1...Grind them close to the proper length, leaving the tips a little bit longer than needed.
2...I use a battery powered Dremel tool with a medium grit grinding wheel or diamond disc to shorten the spring bar tips. Battery powered Dremel tools can usually be slowed down to a lower RPM than corded models and do not remove metal as rapidly, helping to avoid mistakes.
3...The tips need to be cut to length by trial and error because the spring bar tip length needs to be compatible with the thickness of the lugs.
4...After the tips are cut to proper length, slightly smooth and round the tips using a medium or fine rubberized abrasive (Cratex etc) in the tool.
5...The tips should not stick out of the lug holes but be recessed just a little bit. Sometimes a spring bar will need one tip shorter than the other one because of lug thickness.
 

Karbon74

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I got the dreaded helicopter effect on the seagull movement. 😱
I think some lubrication slipped into the reversing wheels when I lubed the rotor bearings to reduce noise

seems I am good to strip down the automatic module...i am letting it power down totally to see if it self heals.
 
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Karbon74

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It's a beautifully carved case. I really like the straight lugs.
Due to personal circumstances, it's hard to install a large rotating lathe in the house, so I'm trying to carve with a small drill, but I'm not sure if the motor power will be sufficient.
Shape it with 120 grit and finish with 400 grit...


And I wonder if this fluffy thing can be used for polishing as well.



I use this



with a dremel 42xx with variable speed.
Sanding only. Polish I do by hand with sticks
 

316lad

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I got the dreaded helicopter effect on the seagull movement. 😱
I think some lubrication slipped into the reversing wheels when I lubed the rotor bearings to reduce noise

seems I am good to strip down the automatic module...i am letting it power down totally to see if it self heals.
Lube on JUST the pivots is fine - it's a special lube (Lubeta V105) which I don't have but you can cheat it with 9010/2 and IPA mix - then M1300 on everything else.

 

dpd3672

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Thank you, its a Ruby. But raffles is putting out nice dials that are tough as nails lately
After purchasing a couple of "upgrade" dials from Mochacha and Yuki, and seeing how much work we tend to put into them after we get them, I'm having a hard time justifying spending the extra money anymore.

Unless there's a seriously egregious error in the font or layout, we're more or less starting with a dial that's a template for the work to be done. And as mentioned earlier, there were so many variations put out by the factory...and so many small changes that happened during service...you almost can't screw one of these up.

It's an oversimplification, sure, but there's a lot of truth to it.
 

Karbon74

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Ok, some very rough instructions on the saltwater etching. The process needs a lot of fine tuning, but this is more or less it.

This is the first piece of metal I came across, it's smooth and clean and flat, so an easy palette, lol. When the bugs are worked out, this will be happening between the lugs of a Raffles (or other) case:


Some quick prints on electronic circuit board heat transfer paper. Every little rectangle should fit perfectly between the lugs of a watch when cut out:


Have to get it perfectly flat, full contact with the metal: Not sure how I'll do it on a watch case, might try adapting a SEL.


Then it's heated, so the ink/toner melts and sticks to the metal. The exact temperature and time heated is one of the things I'll need to work out. To get between the lugs, I'm thinking a pen tip soldering iron might work.


Let everything cool and remove the tape and paper. If the paper sticks, you can rinse the paper away with water. You can be a bit aggressive...if the transfer works, it's pretty well attached. This is not a perfect transfer, but good enough to show the concept.
Now you need to etch the metal. Take a 9v batter or an old phone charger and attach one wire to the metal, the other gets attached to a q-tip that's dipped in salt water. Touch the q-tip to the area you want to etch, and it will attack the metal where it's NOT covered by the decal. The water will bubble and change color...yellow, brown, even blue. You will see a little smoke. You will smell nasty gas (chlorine gas, I think...that's what it smells like...do this in a well ventilated area!). This is normal and not terribly dangerous, although it can be a little scary.

When you're done, clean off the remains of the toner/ink and what's left is etched into the metal. It actually looks pretty good, especially since real vintage Rolexes are usually very worn between the lugs.



Obviously this process needs some tweaking...but for something I threw together in a couple minutes, it's really not bad at all. I figure a few hours of practicing on scrap and I'll be ready for a real watch case.



@dpd3672 real basic question...what do you use to print on electronic transfer paper? I only have simple inkjet printer. Is that enough?