-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
He's a clever guy that Manodenaro. Nice guy, and, as fate would have it (given our discussions over the last few days) I was in touch with him a while ago about between-lug engravings which he also does to perfection.Thank you
No. True negative relief gilt dial from Manodenaro.♂
I've been experimenting myself with gilt dials (although I am nowhere near the skill of Manodenaro...I even had him do a Ploprof dial for me, lol). It's remarkably easy, all you need is some decal paper and a good quality printer (use the one at work if you need to). I did a first, rough test on a piece of scrap brass and it turned out unbelievably well...I've been trying to fine tune the process for the last couple weeks. One of the links from the google drive I posted above is the templates for gilt dials, most of which I clipped from this thread, which explains the process and some alternative methods using negative and reversed images, which is also a neat option. This is from RWG forum, but a lot of the same modders there as here.Thank you
No. True negative relief gilt dial from Manodenaro.
Decals print dials
Hi friends ! After reading jelliotz last build & JoeyB advices, I want to try dial decals print by myself. Rolex 6536 custom build http://rwg.cc/index.php?/topic/182539-Rolex-6536-custom-build Bought decal paper, micro set and Sennelier gloss acrylic varnish. I can't find Krylon Crystal Clear...
rwg.cc
Oh FFS !
All I did was drop it gently on to the coffee table from about 6 inches.
I think what's going on here is the bezel (which I dremeled out to take the T21 is so tight that temp fluctualtions are making the metal of the bezel tighten over the acrylic.
I need to increase the I.D. of the bezel by another "thou" as they used to say.
Tedious - but it's all learning. . .
All I did was drop it gently on to the coffee table from about 6 inches.
I think what's going on here is the bezel (which I dremeled out to take the T21 is so tight that temp fluctualtions are making the metal of the bezel tighten over the acrylic.
I need to increase the I.D. of the bezel by another "thou" as they used to say.
Tedious - but it's all learning. . .
I used to start my car in the winter with a remote starter. Was nice and toasty by the time I showered, got dressed, and left for work.Oh FFS !
All I did was drop it gently on to the coffee table from about 6 inches.
I think what's going on here is the bezel (which I dremeled out to take the T21 is so tight that temp fluctualtions are making the metal of the bezel tighten over the acrylic.
I need to increase the I.D. of the bezel by another "thou" as they used to say.
Tedious - but it's all learning. . .
One day, during a cold snap, I got in the car and watched a crack slowly start and spread from one end of the windshield to the other.
Wasn't moving, so it wasn't a stone from another car. All I can figure is that the vents were warming the glass at the bottom, but the top was still 10 below zero, and the sealant was so cold it didn't allow any flex.
I could easily see that happening to a watch crystal, if it's a tight fit.
It's a shame that it always seems to happen to the "perfect" things, not the ones you were considering replacing already, lol.
At least it's a cheap rep and not a $500 gen crystal...
at least yours is an accident. I was thinking about why I have the helicopter effect on my new movement.
That's because I stupidly over oiled the rotor bearing directly on the movement and oil probably spilled over the reversing wheels. Stupid noob mistake that would not have happened if I had looked up the automatic part of the ETA manual
That's because I stupidly over oiled the rotor bearing directly on the movement and oil probably spilled over the reversing wheels. Stupid noob mistake that would not have happened if I had looked up the automatic part of the ETA manual
Mano does magic. I saw the 5513 gilt dial he did for CMaster. It's mesmerisingThank you
No. True negative relief gilt dial from Manodenaro.
Not a 1016, or even an Explorer, but parts are starting to arrive for the dozen or so projects I have stalled on my bench. The OP is the predecessor to the Explorer, so it’s similar in spirit, at least.
This was a cheap case and dial that I got M2M a couple weeks back, somewhat abused. A cheap A3130, hands, and a NATO and it’s almost back in service, just have to trim the stem. Pretty sure it’s one of the NWBIG Oyster Perpetuals, and I love the size, 39mm. Now I’m looking at getting a Clean Explorer, and torn between the 36mm and 39mm, lol.
This was a cheap case and dial that I got M2M a couple weeks back, somewhat abused. A cheap A3130, hands, and a NATO and it’s almost back in service, just have to trim the stem. Pretty sure it’s one of the NWBIG Oyster Perpetuals, and I love the size, 39mm. Now I’m looking at getting a Clean Explorer, and torn between the 36mm and 39mm, lol.
I have the 39mm CF. It's an absolute beauty. If that helps, the dial is very present given the thin polished bezel.Not a 1016, or even an Explorer, but parts are starting to arrive for the dozen or so projects I have stalled on my bench. The OP is the predecessor to the Explorer, so it’s similar in spirit, at least.
This was a cheap case and dial that I got M2M a couple weeks back, somewhat abused. A cheap A3130, hands, and a NATO and it’s almost back in service, just have to trim the stem. Pretty sure it’s one of the NWBIG Oyster Perpetuals, and I love the size, 39mm. Now I’m looking at getting a Clean Explorer, and torn between the 36mm and 39mm, lol.
If I compare to the 1016, the dial sucks in all your attention and you don't "see" the case.
If I compare to my 5513, it still feels like a more significant watch.
It's only more subdued if I put it aside a 44mm Panerai or my blingy Santos
I like "big" watches, at times, but I mostly wear very subtle, boring ones daily. I'm a big fan of the 34mm and 36mm watches with plain bezels. My 5500 Air King was my "go to" for years, and I'm really loving the many variants of the Explorer for many of the same reasons.
What held me back from the newest Explorers is that they're a bit less "subtle" than the old ones...and very close in style to the new Air Kings, which I haven't quite fallen in love with.
I like a watch that looks like a dime store Timex, but a closer look shows that it's quite a bit more elegant.
Hell, who am I kidding, I'll probably wind up getting both, sooner or later, lol.
Ah yes the decal printed dial thread. Bart hasnt been around in a while he took a step back at the beginning of covid. haven't seen him around since.. hope is his okay.I've been experimenting myself with gilt dials (although I am nowhere near the skill of Manodenaro...I even had him do a Ploprof dial for me, lol). It's remarkably easy, all you need is some decal paper and a good quality printer (use the one at work if you need to). I did a first, rough test on a piece of scrap brass and it turned out unbelievably well...I've been trying to fine tune the process for the last couple weeks. One of the links from the google drive I posted above is the templates for gilt dials, most of which I clipped from this thread, which explains the process and some alternative methods using negative and reversed images, which is also a neat option. This is from RWG forum, but a lot of the same modders there as here.
Decals print dials
Hi friends ! After reading jelliotz last build & JoeyB advices, I want to try dial decals print by myself. Rolex 6536 custom build http://rwg.cc/index.php?/topic/182539-Rolex-6536-custom-build Bought decal paper, micro set and Sennelier gloss acrylic varnish. I can't find Krylon Crystal Clear...rwg.cc
He did the dial and dwo on my 6542 gmt. the decal dial looks good. but some can look a bit too shiny .
Manodenaro uses a fim free decal and it really works well with the watch dial in getting a nice smooth dial surface.
I am planning on try on my and a dial making over the winter but with the etching and chemical treatments to attempt some very cool tropical dials.
- 16/10/23
- 197
- 130
- 43
I'm considering applying Weathering Master, which is like pastel powder, to the dial, but I'm unsure if it will adhere properly. Should I apply a coating?
And I'm wondering if I can insert a stem for ETA 2824 into PT5000.
And I'm wondering if I can insert a stem for ETA 2824 into PT5000.
Weathering will go on and stay on just fine.I'm considering applying Weathering Master, which is like pastel powder, to the dial, but I'm unsure if it will adhere properly. Should I apply a coating?
And I'm wondering if I can insert a stem for ETA 2824 into PT5000.
Up to you if you want to drop coat a lacquer over it but obviously that'll make it permamanent.
What I tend to do is try things, weat it, live with it for a while and if I decide it's an effect that's a keeper THEN drop coat a lacquer over it all to finalise it.
Yes, an ETA 2824-2 stem will fit the PT5000 just fine, it being a direct clone of the 2824-2
I would be worried that the powder, if not sealed up with laquer, would make its way into the movement. Wouldn't this be a concern, or am I missing something?
I had a 2824 clone where a 2824 stem didn’t fit. It looked like a PT5000.
anyway I upgraded to another 2824 clone which came with the no date keyless! No modifications required
Was it a 2824 or a 2824-2 they're pretty much the same but with noteable differences with regard to the keyless works and thus Stem.
