Looks excellent. Nice houndstooth jacket too!
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
That is what I use on my dials for aging and for the sun bleached effects. I guess you missed it? I did that on the raffles mk2 dial and it looks great but yes it will rub off if touched directly
DO NOT APPLY any spray clear coat over it the solvents in the clear dissolve the weathering paint and the effect disappears. first hand knowledge.
in regards to the stems. in my experience , no. they are not interchangeable. not sure why but they are not .
also first hand knowledge.
I've been okay with water-based but yes, agree, solvent would finish the dial.
Sorry, my bad - should have said that.
Pullthat92 - I hope you read this before trying solvent-based.
So, it seems the 2824 stem in a PT5000 seems a bit of a gamble as well. That seems strange as the PT didn't appear until well after the 2824-2.
I killed a dial once by using nail varnish trying to do a spider effect. The lume and prints just melted 
I used a water based satin polyurethane, common with wood working, (which I also do) the sun bleached effect disappeared
Acetone will do that.I killed a dial once by using nail varnish trying to do a spider effect. The lume and prints just melted
I use mainly Tamiya - model-making paints and lacquer - as well as weatherings. All seems to work okay - but a fine line indeed between that surface-drop coat and full meltdown!
I don't know now - I'm full of doubt that I've just been hithertoo just very lucky!
If I were to say anything - it would be DRYING TMES!
Let stuff dry out completely - that means for anything solvent or even part-solvent (yep, including so-called "water-based" at least a a day at room temp to let the evaporates entirely, well, evaporate away.
The resulting paint, weathering, make-up, etc has by then become pretty much inert and won't react so vigorously with what you drop on it.
Sorry 369, just realised what you were commenting on - to get the weathering powder to "lock in" to the paint effect?
So the paint, texture and weathering can all be applied in succession of each other without protracted drying times between.
Above post, I'm referring to the final clear coat to seal the whole in permanently once one is happy with the final result - that's the thing I let sit for at least a day ot two to really get it to "bake off" and lose every last bit of solvent from it.
And of course, it goes without saying - if I am involved - this can include distasterous results on a regular basis!
So the paint, texture and weathering can all be applied in succession of each other without protracted drying times between.
Above post, I'm referring to the final clear coat to seal the whole in permanently once one is happy with the final result - that's the thing I let sit for at least a day ot two to really get it to "bake off" and lose every last bit of solvent from it.
And of course, it goes without saying - if I am involved - this can include distasterous results on a regular basis!
Spent the night working out the bugs on the waterslide decal dials...it's getting better and better. This was some very rough brass blanks that I didn't super clean or polish, and there's not even a center hole drilled...just getting the process ready for the real deal.
I did a couple gold gilt dials and a few with white lettering...not sure about the white, but it's a nice option to have. Did them with and without chapter ring...I think this is more or less the 1016 and 6610, but it's super late and my brain is degrading, lol.
Also printed up some 27mm dials for the 34mm Raffles case (and gen Rolex cases), although I only had 30mm blanks, so there's a lot of space left over:
Also got some 40mm blanks (slightly too big, but can machine down) and a couple super cheap AliX cases for another long term project that's still getting the bugs worked out...
I did a couple gold gilt dials and a few with white lettering...not sure about the white, but it's a nice option to have. Did them with and without chapter ring...I think this is more or less the 1016 and 6610, but it's super late and my brain is degrading, lol.
Also printed up some 27mm dials for the 34mm Raffles case (and gen Rolex cases), although I only had 30mm blanks, so there's a lot of space left over:
Also got some 40mm blanks (slightly too big, but can machine down) and a couple super cheap AliX cases for another long term project that's still getting the bugs worked out...
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Anyone looking for a Yuki tropical Dial?
why pay 100 from Yuki when you can pay 700 on ebay.
why pay 100 from Yuki when you can pay 700 on ebay.
Rolex Explorer Ref 1016 Chocolate/ Tropical Patina Vintage Dial | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rolex Explorer Ref 1016 Chocolate/ Tropical Patina Vintage Dial at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.ca
700 bucks, and he didn't even bother do change the description...he describes a Submariner dial, lol.Anyone looking for a Yuki tropical Dial?
why pay 100 from Yuki when you can pay 700 on ebay.
Rolex Explorer Ref 1016 Chocolate/ Tropical Patina Vintage Dial | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Rolex Explorer Ref 1016 Chocolate/ Tropical Patina Vintage Dial at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.ca
In other news.
Raffles has spoken to his factory and they are able to make the commando hands to spec.
Production will probably start after the holidays but it will nice to have a source fot these hands complete.
Raffles has spoken to his factory and they are able to make the commando hands to spec.
Production will probably start after the holidays but it will nice to have a source fot these hands complete.
Was just about ready to place another order with Raffles...now do I wait or just buy more stuff in a couple weeks? LolIn other news.
Raffles has spoken to his factory and they are able to make the commando hands to spec.
Production will probably start after the holidays but it will nice to have a source fot these hands complete.
Today’s project.
Radium burnt hands.
I dig this look often found on early subs. Here is an example on an explorer 6610
I have an okd set of raffle hands that will be perfect for this
First corrosion with a vinegar bath. Then some creativity with some paints.
Radium burnt hands.
I dig this look often found on early subs. Here is an example on an explorer 6610
I have an okd set of raffle hands that will be perfect for this
First corrosion with a vinegar bath. Then some creativity with some paints.
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Buy some now and later
I put in an order earlier this week and those parts along with my commando dial are on route and i have to put in another order this weekend. I cant keep this guy in business myself. You guys gotta pitch in.
Yes, I love the look of radium burnt dials. I've actually played around with an old junk dial and a soldering iron, but haven't perfected it yet. It always looks cool when you can see where the hands stopped as the watch sat in grandpa's dresser drawer for 30 years or so, lol.Today’s project.
Radium burnt hands.
I dig this look often found on early subs. Here is an example on an explorer 6610
I have an okd set of raffle hands that will be perfect for this
First corrosion with a vinegar bath. Then some creativity with some paints.