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If you want someone done right... (Engraving content)

Natas78

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Just my humble opinion, but having used both the drag engraver and the laser and saltwater etching processes, I think the case back would be VERY difficult to do with the drag engraver.

The different fonts used and the fact that some of the writing is on an arc would make things very difficult to line up properly. It's doable, obviously, because Rolex did it at one time, but to do it one-off would be a challenge.

Since the inside case back is only visible to a watchmaker, who wouldn't be fooled once the case back was open anyway (a NH or ETA or even 31XX looks nothing like a 15XX movement), I'd think a "less than perfect" inside case back would be more than acceptable, and there's some decent templates to use in the saltwater engraving thread that would work.

Now for something like a Tudor case back, engraved on the outside, it would probably be worth the trouble to use the drag engraver.
You could have a template made in brass, that shouldn't be too hard to do.
But inside casebacks were stamped anyway.
 
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dpd3672

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First case done (Day-Date 36 Platinum)

If you don't mind me asking, what are you using to hold the case while you engrave? I 3D printed a jig that works, but it isn't as rock solid as I prefer, and would love to hear what others are using.
 

brekker0

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First case done (Day-Date 36 Platinum)

Gorgeuos! :love: ... but "N's" are tryin' to vanish like a pair of socks in the washing machine :cool: ...a problem, I have fixed meanwhile ("N's" not socks..., btw)
 

brekker0

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If you don't mind me asking, what are you using to hold the case while you engrave? I 3D printed a jig that works, but it isn't as rock solid as I prefer, and would love to hear what others are using.
Hey mate, try it this way.... rock solid as hell (and pretty easy to handle...);)
 
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dpd3672

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Hey mate, try it this way.... rock solid as hell (and pretty easy to handle...);)
Thanks, I'll see if something like that works better. It's just the stock vice accessory and 4 hard wood wedges?
Sometimes I overthink things, lol.
 

brekker0

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Thanks, I'll see if something like that works better. It's just the stock vice accessory and 4 hard wood wedges?
Sometimes I overthink things, lol.
exactly! I tried the printed jigs as well & it seems as I'm too dumb to use them properly... but I know to handle the wood pieces:ROFLMAO:
 

Secretgoblin

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First case done (Day-Date 36 Platinum)
You're probably aware, but 18239 would be White gold, and would be an "Orig. Rolex Design" engraving, with the serial side having no engraving line denoting the metal. That is covered by the hallmarks.
 

Natas78

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You're probably aware, but 18239 would be White gold, and would be an "Orig. Rolex Design" engraving, with the serial side having no engraving line denoting the metal. That is covered by the hallmarks.
yup just wanted to try out, was the only blank case I had laying around ))
 
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WatchN3RD

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Thanks, I'll see if something like that works better. It's just the stock vice accessory and 4 hard wood wedges?
Sometimes I overthink things, lol.
Hey mate, try it this way.... rock solid as hell (and pretty easy to handle...);)
Any chance you have a few more pictures from different angles? It looks like oak wood wedges in a clamp on top of sandpaper.

But even if it is that, really hard to tell how the key turns that lock. I'm interested, as wedges are underrated.
 
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brekker0

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Any chance you have a few more pictures from different angles? It looks like oak wood wedges in a clamp on top of sandpaper.

But even if it is that, really hard to tell how the key turns that lock. I'm interested, as wedges are underrated.
It's not that much complicated... No sandpaper, but the stock jig (I've a set of wooden clamps, but you can use the metal ones, too) & 4 oakwood-wedges (in almost the same thickness)... I taped them, that they just don't fall off, when I'm adjusting the watch-case...
 

matzemedia

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I am following the thread with great fascination. This machine fascinates me and at the same time I still don't understand it 100%. That's why I watched a few videos on YouTube. Looks like fun! However, there's one question I haven't been able to answer yet. The surface between the lugs is not flat it is curved. How do you make the numbers flat? Do you turn the watch case in between engraving?
 

Natas78

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You'll only understand it if you do it ))
I am following the thread with great fascination. This machine fascinates me and at the same time I still don't understand it 100%. That's why I watched a few videos on YouTube. Looks like fun! However, there's one question I haven't been able to answer yet. The surface between the lugs is not flat it is curved. How do you make the numbers flat? Do you turn the watch case in between engraving?
 

dpd3672

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Where there are tools to rotate round surfaces that are engraved, the distance involved is small enough that the numbers aren't really distorted significantly.

I have a laser engraver as well, and for something like a round Yeti tumbler or coffee mug, there's an accessory that turns the object as it's engraved, since not only will the numbers compress as the distance from the center increases, but the focus of a laser engraver is only sharp within a fairly small depth of field.

However, it's really not an issue when doing engraving between the lugs with a drag engraver.
 
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est4129

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I was reading through this thread and saw some discussion on engraving a Tudor caseback and am wondering if anyone had done so successfully?

I would like to build a 7928 use a Dr. Vintage case and the back is the only holdup.
 
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