GMF released a GMT 3186 clone movement

[myarmisshort]

He’s saying you turn the crown anti clockwise to advance the hour (2nd position) which is different from an authentic Rolex. Which is “off”. But to me it’s a minor issue as long as the functionality is the same. Directionality is a high priority to me especially because the 3286 needs to be moved anti clockwise to advance the hour hand.

if you’re asking what I think you’re asking, I don’t think he meant “you’re setting the timer to go off” (which is what I thought the first time I read it too lol) because as of now there is no reason to think - failure.

So, If I would get the 3186 (one that isnt a time bomb), I would still need to use the tutorial that has been posted, to set time and everything, correct?

 

[Carbon Summit]

My perspective is GMF is the best so far but opposite direction to set the timer is a big off

Are you saying that when you set the GMF with the crown, it behaves differently than the Gen 3186 and you don't like that so you'll wait for a different version?

 

[Serdar]

Are you saying that when you set the GMF with the crown, it behaves differently than the Gen 3186 and you don't like that so you'll wait for a different version?

Yes, Hazing made it clear better. 2nd position of the crown setting works opposite to the gen.

You can check the video on trusty's website and a gen one on YouTube.


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[myarmisshort]

anti clockwise to advance the hour

So from my understanding, no matter which movement there isnt a great/gen like GMT out at the moment? regarding movement, setting the watch and so on...?

 

[sickopsycho]

I should think that something as trivial as the direction you twist the crown to set the watch would be a very low priority if everything else looks legit. Unless you were trying to get one over on somebody, that is. How often does one actually adjust the time on their watch? I think it's really amusing how intricate we all get into every minute detail- when even many watch enthusiasts would not know the correct hand stack on a 116710, or the direction you twist the crown in order to set it. I understand that a lot of folks get reps for a lot of different reasons- but I should hope that it all boils down to what makes the wearer happy. Of course, I don't go around telling people that my rep watches are real, so maybe I'm a different case. I simply love the engineering- I love the fact that my reps can be "real enough". Did you know that as far as Rolex is concerned, if you take a gen watch to a jeweler and replace the bracelet with an aftermarket bracelet or the crystal with an aftermarket crystal- you no longer have a "genuine" Rolex? It's ridiculous. So when I shell out $500 for a rep that is literally 95% the exact same thing as one that costs 20x that amount- and I can even replace the parts I want inside of it with genuine Rolex parts to increase the function or reliability- than I call that a win every day of the week! =D

edit: rant over, sorry for hijacking the thread.

 

[Serdar]

Absolutely fair point. I just mentioned my point of view and tried to respond a fellows query.

For instance, I would say the same things for lugs, sells or crystal position where so many other fellow can't cope.

It's been so long that I'm waiting for a decent rep of the batman and couldnt easily accept the fact maybe.

Maybe, I will end up to pulling the trigger soon too


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[Hazing]

I should think that something as trivial as the direction you twist the crown to set the watch would be a very low priority if everything else looks legit. Unless you were trying to get one over on somebody, that is. How often does one actually adjust the time on their watch? I think it's really amusing how intricate we all get into every minute detail- when even many watch enthusiasts would not know the correct hand stack on a 116710, or the direction you twist the crown in order to set it. I understand that a lot of folks get reps for a lot of different reasons- but I should hope that it all boils down to what makes the wearer happy. Of course, I don't go around telling people that my rep watches are real, so maybe I'm a different case. I simply love the engineering- I love the fact that my reps can be "real enough". Did you know that as far as Rolex is concerned, if you take a gen watch to a jeweler and replace the bracelet with an aftermarket bracelet or the crystal with an aftermarket crystal- you no longer have a "genuine" Rolex? It's ridiculous. So when I shell out $500 for a rep that is literally 95% the exact same thing as one that costs 20x that amount- and I can even replace the parts I want inside of it with genuine Rolex parts to increase the function or reliability- than I call that a win every day of the week! =D

edit: rant over, sorry for hijacking the thread.

Especially when you think till now that the only option was a 2813 that didn’t work at all like gen. Even the chs models. No one is ever going to test the directionality of the winding never mind know it’s the opposite direction. This last page is making my head spin. Lol.

 

[KJ2020]

The gen 3285 movement found in the 126710's switched the direction of crown rotation again. So even if buying a VR/SH/SA true clone rep movement in a rep 126710 (Pepsi or Batman with jubilee), you will again be setting time in crown position 3 the opposite way from gen.

Rolex doesn't seem to think this distinction is important, as it is not even mentioned in the user guide. You set the time by "turning the crown in either direction." Period.

https://www.rolex.com/media/user-guides.html

 

[Carbon Summit]

I should think that something as trivial as the direction you twist the crown to set the watch would be a very low priority if everything else looks legit. Unless you were trying to get one over on somebody, that is. How often does one actually adjust the time on their watch? I think it's really amusing how intricate we all get into every minute detail- when even many watch enthusiasts would not know the correct hand stack on a 116710, or the direction you twist the crown in order to set it. I understand that a lot of folks get reps for a lot of different reasons- but I should hope that it all boils down to what makes the wearer happy. Of course, I don't go around telling people that my rep watches are real, so maybe I'm a different case. I simply love the engineering- I love the fact that my reps can be "real enough". Did you know that as far as Rolex is concerned, if you take a gen watch to a jeweler and replace the bracelet with an aftermarket bracelet or the crystal with an aftermarket crystal- you no longer have a "genuine" Rolex? It's ridiculous. So when I shell out $500 for a rep that is literally 95% the exact same thing as one that costs 20x that amount- and I can even replace the parts I want inside of it with genuine Rolex parts to increase the function or reliability- than I call that a win every day of the week! =D

edit: rant over, sorry for hijacking the thread.

I agree which is why I asked. I can live with the setting not the same as Gen, I just wanted to be sure that was all that was "wrong".

 

[myarmisshort]

I have a different question, not regarding the movement.From the stuff we talked above I figured out that there isnt a great working Batman with Jubilee.The VRF one has a bad transition (from what I saw on Trusty)
So Im interested in the 116713 aka The Yellow Gold Two-Tone.Does anyone have any experience with the 116713 here? especially asking about how the gold is on the reps.

 

[Carbon Summit]

Hell I am still debating if I get a 116710 or a 126710 rep if I shouldn't just go with a 2836 and say screw CHS until they get the issues sorted out!

 

[myarmisshort]

I foumd this rep on Ts Watches which seems to look quite good (its from GMF Factory)
https://www.ts-stations.cn/mobile/goods.php?ProId=26806

Anyone that owns this particular model?

 

[sickopsycho]

I foumd this rep on Ts Watches which seems to look quite good (its from GMF Factory)
https://www.ts-stations.cn/mobile/goods.php?ProId=26806

Anyone that owns this particular model?

How about opening a new thread in the same section asking about overall GMT suggestions? If you want you can even tag a few of the folks here in on that one to get the discussion started-

edit: although I guess you still are asking about a GMF 3186 watch, lol. I you're not technically off-topic... Just think maybe for answering a bunch of questions that have already been talked about in this thread, etc, a new thread might be appropriate.

 

[Hazing]

I have a different question, not regarding the movement.From the stuff we talked above I figured out that there isnt a great working Batman with Jubilee.The VRF one has a bad transition (from what I saw on Trusty)
So Im interested in the 116713 aka The Yellow Gold Two-Tone.Does anyone have any experience with the 116713 here? especially asking about how the gold is on the reps.

This isn’t the right place to ask about those references. You’ll have more luck in a place where it will get seen by people who can answer your questions.

 

[Hazing]

Hell I am still debating if I get a 116710 or a 126710 rep if I shouldn't just go with a 2836 and say screw CHS until they get the issues sorted out!

What issues are you talking about? And I mean if the Incorrect hand stack and lack of an hour jumping feature Don’t bother you, any of the issues here seem... insignificant.

 

[Carbon Summit]

What issues are you talking about? And I mean if the Incorrect hand stack and lack of an hour jumping feature Don’t bother you, any of the issues here seem... insignificant.

To my understanding or lack there of the 2836 is pretty reliable and a safe bet. The 2824 is a time bomb.

The ARF SH3186 and VRF VR3186 have thier issues:

I've had both ARF and VRF watches in hand and worked on both movements. IMO the ARF is a better quality caseset, including everything on the outside. The VRF is a much better movement, including the DW, which is good enough to not require a replacement with gen. A gen jump click will improve both movements. The ARF really needs 2 additional gen parts replacements to approach equitablity. The first ARF movement I worked on the jump click stopped functioning fully very early on. It would not allow backwards hour jumping. It was binding and I'm sure it would have broken if I had forced it, even accidentally.

https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...ing-hour-parts

And now with GMF releasing their 3186 from what I've gathered here is that its really too soon to say what issues might arise?

So the issues I'm talking about is that overall there doesn't seem to be a CHS rep movement that is a "safe bet" like the 2836 ICHS. The CHS is a cosmetic thing at best to me compared to the having to worry about the movement failing when setting it or whatever. The watch I've got on my wrist as I type has the 3187 from the R Factory so I get what I'd be losing if I went with the 2836. So for me the issues I'm talking about is having to worry if today would be the day my rep broke and now I'm spending a fair amount of what I paid for it on postage and having a RWI watchmaker repair it.

 

[Carbon Summit]

Not that I think the 2836 is bullet proof, I know they all can fail.

I don't use a watch winder and I have multiple watches so most of the time I have to set them before wearing them. Its my understanding that if I'm going to do that with a GMT the 2836 is the safest one to own. If I'm mistaken please tell me as I'm still very new to the rep world.

 

[TidusKun]

From what I've read, the 2836 is the most reliable even though the movement isn't close to gen at all. GMF make it with the 2836 in older models

 

[RiffRalf]

So from my understanding, no matter which movement there isnt a great/gen like GMT out at the moment? regarding movement, setting the watch and so on...?

Spend $15k on the black market and be happy or spend $450 on a rep and stop moaning. That's the way I see it. And do it, been wearing my ICHS with gusto for the past 8 months


[url=https://www.pixelsbin.com/image/lrKjg] [/URL]

 

[KJ2020]

OOTB the 2836 ICHS is indeed the most reliable, and the easiest and cheapest to repair. Parts are cheap and easy to get with the exception of the GMT bits which can occasionally wear out. I have some 2836 ICHS GMT movements that I'm sure are 4-5 years old that are still running strong.

The VR3185 is a great clone movement and could run quite a while without any parts replacements. Same with the SH3186, but it is designed from the gen 3186 which has a weaker jump click than the gen 3185. Also the SH is not as well made. The VR is a cut above in many respects - the blue hairspring, the upgraded balance shock absorber, nicer finish, etc. Both movements will take their respective gen jump click parts if needed or preemptively.

Gen jumping hour click springs compared

The SA3186 is too new for there to be any history of reliability. Its hour jumping is opposite to either gen 3185/6 so best guess is it won't take a gen jump click part replacement.

CHS is overrated IMO. I have a few GMT reps and honestly don't care about the handstack one bit. 4 digit GMTs have the GMT hand on the bottom as do other gens like Omega so no big deal to me. Get a watch you like and be happy with your fantasy.

My Noob V8 2836 ICHS. Paid $250 M2M plus $49 for an aftermarket insert which I paint modded. I don't feel a need to upgrade it, even though I could put a VR3185 in it and I have one sitting unused on my bench. Reps should be all about knowing when good is good enough. You can spend a lot more but in the end it's still a rep.