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GMF released a GMT 3186 clone movement

KJ2020

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If they released the pepsi dial i would be so happy

I think you mean Pepsi insert, Pepsi and Batman 126710 dials are identical.

GMF has a Pepsi insert, it isn't terrible but isn't like the Noob either.

GMF insert
15888020016310.jpg


Noob insert
15888020017041.jpg
 
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KJ2020

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KJ2020 are these watches available on TD websites yet? I think this is the same one batman from ts station in the first post on trusty time, correct me if im wrong
https://trustytime.shop/index.php?ma...ducts_id=20158

That one you linked is the old 2824 CHS timebomb. This is the SA3186 true clone. Note the handstack difference.

Also, you can send a TSWATCH link to any TD, who should be able to get it for you.

https://trustytime.shop/index.php?ma...ducts_id=20992

noEU4.jpg
 
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undisputed

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KJ2020 if you were to only buy one gmt batman watch and not frankenstein it, which one would it be? ie what is your recommendation for the best current batman on the market
 

jdoc77

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Well I have read this ENTIRE thread and all the associated links. My conclusions based on the goals of this watch for me personally :

- get the new GMF v3
- be VERY strict with the QC, especially the 18 transition and speed bumps (May ask for a little help from you all ;)
- keep GMF clone movement with plan to eventually swap out to the VR clone movement (someone mentioned Thats about $200 bucks to do. Any recs on who send it to?)
- relume if necessary
- if I get really feisty, do a gen crystal and date wheel swap as it appears it will fit in the GMF v3
- possible spongebob mod but it appears the paint on the V3 is pretty solid

Anything I’m missing? Love/hate this forum for all the same reasons lol


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jdoc77

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Apologies for the terrible formatting. Did this from the app on my iphone


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KJ2020

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KJ2020 if you were to only buy one gmt batman watch and not frankenstein it, which one would it be? ie what is your recommendation for the best current batman on the market

If I could only pick one and couldn't afford to change a single thing on it, it would surely be a GMF. I'd wait a little longer to see if any of the newly purchased true clone SA3186s have issues before committing, haha!

If I had to pay tonight or lose out forever and couldn't use my spare VR3185 on hand, I'd get a GMF 2836 ICHS. Look in this thread for pics of one recently purchased by Conceyted . Like my Noob V8, it's decidedly "good enough".
 

KJ2020

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Well I have read this ENTIRE thread and all the associated links. My conclusions based on the goals of this watch for me personally :

- get the new GMF v3
- be VERY strict with the QC, especially the 18 transition and speed bumps (May ask for a little help from you all ;)
- keep GMF clone movement with plan to eventually swap out to the VR clone movement (someone mentioned Thats about $200 bucks to do. Any recs on who send it to?)
- relume if necessary
- if I get really feisty, do a gen crystal and date wheel swap as it appears it will fit in the GMF v3
- possible spongebob mod but it appears the paint on the V3 is pretty solid

Anything I’m missing? Love/hate this forum for all the same reasons lol


Sent from my iPhone using RWI

This is a well researched and sound plan. We may all be surprised by the SA3186. I wouldn't touch it until you have to. I have some reps that keep great time that have never had the caseback off.
 
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Fervid

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If I could only pick one and couldn't afford to change a single thing on it, it would surely be a GMF. I'd wait a little longer to see if any of the newly purchased true clone SA3186s have issues before committing, haha!

If I had to pay tonight or lose out forever and couldn't use my spare VR3185 on hand, I'd get a GMF 2836 ICHS. Look in this thread for pics of one recently purchased by Conceyted . Like my Noob V8, it's decidedly "good enough".

I've had my eyes on grabbing a 2836 ICHS but every single one I've seen appears to have horrendously thick bezel numbers. (Unless I'm looking in the wrong place)

In which case my debate would be buying a 2836 and upgrading the bezel or just going with the GMF V3.
 

KJ2020

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I've had my eyes on grabbing a 2836 ICHS but every single one I've seen appears to have horrendously thick bezel numbers. (Unless I'm looking in the wrong place)

In which case my debate would be buying a 2836 and upgrading the bezel or just going with the GMF V3.

BPs have thick insert markers, not GMF.

Here's a 126710 GMF, or were you looking for a 116710 (oyster)?

https://www.intime05.co/rollie/6119-...let-a2836.html
 
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Hazing

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Well I have read this ENTIRE thread and all the associated links. My conclusions based on the goals of this watch for me personally :

- get the new GMF v3
- be VERY strict with the QC, especially the 18 transition and speed bumps (May ask for a little help from you all ;)
- keep GMF clone movement with plan to eventually swap out to the VR clone movement (someone mentioned Thats about $200 bucks to do. Any recs on who send it to?)
- relume if necessary
- if I get really feisty, do a gen crystal and date wheel swap as it appears it will fit in the GMF v3
- possible spongebob mod but it appears the paint on the V3 is pretty solid

Anything I’m missing? Love/hate this forum for all the same reasons lol


Sent from my iPhone using RWI

You’re getting way ahead of yourself here if you ask me. And I could be misinterpreting what you want here but there is no reason you can order a GMF v3 and be happy with it out of the box if that’s what you want. You Could buy this watch and be happy with it as is if that’s what you want. To the point where I think you could hand it to most people who own an authentic Rolex 116710blnr and they WOULD NOT be able to say “this isn’t genuine”. I’d say 80% or BLNR owners (and this isn’t regular people here. This is current BLNR owners and this is handing it to them where they could look it over as closely as they like). If you want to bump that up to about 90% Of BLNR owners, change The crystal. Especially with the naked eye/in hand. Some of the big tells are really only visible because we take 4X pics and zoom in 20x.

but there is no reason you Can’t enjoy this day one as is and be fine.

And I wouldn’t give too much Thought to changing the movement. A contingency plan is fine but I’ve been spinning this movement pretty often for a little bit now and it seems ok. In my opinion, planning for a movement to fail that hasn’t proven to fail is counter productive. Just use it till it doesn’t work and if that happens, come back here and find someone who can perform the service you need.

unless you want to start going crazy, that’s another story. It is fun working on them and tinkering with them and getting them as close to gen as possible but it might get pricy but I say jump in the deep end and come for a swim. If you’re just looking for a watch to wear every day - this is a fine choice as best as I can tell so far.

I see this all the time where people come on here, read through these threads and look at the pics and say to themselves “oh I need it as close to a genuine Rolex as it can get. I can’t live with those flaws” but then they get they watch and they’re like “what flaws?”.

the dial is slightly larger than the size of a quarter. Hold a quarter at arms length and try to count the arrows the eagle is grasping in its claws or try to identify the font on “liberty”.
 

Dissemination

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Well I have read this ENTIRE thread and all the associated links. My conclusions based on the goals of this watch for me personally :

- get the new GMF v3
- be VERY strict with the QC, especially the 18 transition and speed bumps (May ask for a little help from you all ;)
- keep GMF clone movement with plan to eventually swap out to the VR clone movement (someone mentioned Thats about $200 bucks to do. Any recs on who send it to?)
- relume if necessary
- if I get really feisty, do a gen crystal and date wheel swap as it appears it will fit in the GMF v3
- possible spongebob mod but it appears the paint on the V3 is pretty solid

Anything I’m missing? Love/hate this forum for all the same reasons lol


Sent from my iPhone using RWI

Took a page right out of my play book! In fact I'm pretty sure at least some of that is inspired by me- specifically in regards to the re-lume, and the SpongeBob mod lol.

But let me explain that I think this is fine OOTB and agree with everyone saying taking it slow... which i do think is also what you're saying, but keeping an eye out looking down the road too.

Personally, I am going to do all of those things because i already have a gen date wheel and crystal, and a vr 3185 laying around. I also happen to have recently purchased gen hands... because of this, I wanted to get the dial relumed (gmf has nice markers, but their lume is iffy). And because I'm just gonna go for it and do all these things, I'm just going to jump in and do the SpongeBob mod- partially to appease my own nature of Frankening/modding, partially to see how it comes out and contribute to the forum.
 
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jdoc77

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Took a page right out of my play book! In fact I'm pretty sure at least some of that is inspired by me- specifically in regards to the re-lume, and the SpongeBob mod lol.

But let me explain that I think this is fine OOTB and agree with everyone saying taking it slow... which i do think is also what you're saying, but keeping an eye out looking down the road too.

Personally, I am going to do all of those things because i already have a gen date wheel and crystal, and a vr 3185 laying around. I also happen to have recently purchased gen hands... because of this, I wanted to get the dial relumed (gmf has nice markers, but their lume is iffy). And because I'm just gonna go for it and do all these things, I'm just going to jump in and do the SpongeBob mod- partially to appease my own nature of Frankening/modding, partially to see how it comes out and contribute to the forum.

Thank you all for the replies. I should have been a bit more clear. That plan was verrry graduated. I’d most definitely stick with OOTB for quite a while, UNLESS we started seeing early issues with the movement. The VR swap would likely only come at that point or if it timebombed on me. The rest of the stuff is pure excess, and only because I’ve gotten bitten by this bug and it seems super fun to tinker. It would just be more in a pet project manor, than in a “this watch NEEDS these changes or I won’t wear it” type manor.
However one thing is clear, that the bezels seem to be very hit or miss. The factories may be trying to burn out old batches on the new V3s before all of them get equipped with brand new bezels. So that’s where I am thankful I spent the man hours pouring through this thread and will he asking for assistance with QCs when I make this purchase in the next few weeks of so


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