Clean GMT-II Pepsi updated bezel insert V2/V2s review and comparison

[Milburn1]

Again, whatever floats your boat; for me it does not make sense talking about details (bezel lip, insert color, lugs shape, etc etc) and then shrug off what is a blatant flaw and a very easy one to spot at that

A flaw’s a flaw, it bothers you or it doesn’t, but it’s there

You could very well apply the same kind of argument and replace in your sentence ”a serial font” by ”the insert color” and reach the same conclusion, we’re reaching a bit of a circular argument here

But then again - to each their own. I already wrote that I am planning to build around a C+, so I am not worried

Honestly what’s it really matter that the 6 and the 9 are the wrong font when you can identify a rep based on its serial number? Q66, K25, 216, Y2L3 ect. Until they start actually randomising serial numbers so they don’t match to a factory you can identify these reps either way I honestly couldn’t even tell you my gen serial number that’s how much I’ve looked at it

 

[ross29]

OK here's a real question for the experts:

What amplitude is considered "good" and what is considered "bad?"

How about amplitude at 255 or at 286? Any difference there?

 

[big_polarbear]

OK here's a real question for the experts:

What amplitude is considered "good" and what is considered "bad?"

How about amplitude at 255 or at 286? Any difference there?

32xx movements that are true clones have a slightly anemic amplitude compared to gen. 240ish is pretty normal for them.

Changing the lift angle from 52° to 58°-59°, or in the case of KJ2020's measurement of 55°, will definitely show an increase that can put amplitude readout in the 270s or higher which is what is "normal" for many modern automatic movements. FWIW 32xx does have a bit lower amplitude than 31xx which can reach into the 300s.

 

[ross29]

I couldn't remember where I saw that... big thank you @big_polarbear

 

[2841]

Again, whatever floats your boat; for me it does not make sense talking about details (bezel lip, insert color, lugs shape, etc etc) and then shrug off what is a blatant flaw and a very easy one to spot at that

A flaw’s a flaw, it bothers you or it doesn’t, but it’s there

You could very well apply the same kind of argument and replace in your sentence ”a serial font” by ”the insert color” and reach the same conclusion, we’re reaching a bit of a circular argument here

But then again - to each their own. I already wrote that I am planning to build around a C+, so I am not worried

Well looking down at the watch on my wrist, I see the lugs, the bezel lip, the insert, the sel, the dial etc. But I sure as fuck can’t see the serial font

So based on that logic, I tend to focus on what I can see in everyday wear first, and secondly what I can only see if I’m posting blown up photos of the watch

I agree, we all have things that bug us, I have done enough crazy expensive builds, where most would probably have stopped way before me. But again, I see this as a instagram problem, not a real world wear problem

 

[2841]

OK here's a real question for the experts:

What amplitude is considered "good" and what is considered "bad?"

How about amplitude at 255 or at 286? Any difference there?

 

[big_polarbear]

Well looking down at the watch on my wrist, I see the lugs, the bezel lip, the insert, the sel, the dial etc. But I sure as fuck can’t see the serial font

So based on that logic, I tend to focus on what I can see in everyday wear first, and secondly what I can only see if I’m posting blown up photos of the watch

I agree, we all have things that bug us, I have done enough crazy expensive builds, where most would probably have stopped way before me. But again, I see this as a instagram problem, not a real world wear problem

And all power to you. Not sure why you keep bringing up instagram though, I am pretty sure that I never mentioned that since I don’t give two farts about instagram, but whatever.

Nothing is a real world wear problem at our level, let’s be honest here; we’re just nitpicking and trying to fix what bugs us most - don’t forget that some people here commission special lugs engraving and serials on 4-digits viet cases for franken purposes - serial font follows the exact same thought process

 

[Platomates]

@dogwood Have you received yours yet? I keep on refreshing your profile everyday for updates. Love your "watch making journey" Thread lol.
Keen to see your report on it <3

 

[dogwood]

@dogwood Have you received yours yet? I keep on refreshing your profile everyday for updates. Love your "watch making journey" Thread lol.
Keen to see your report on it <3

It was processed at the local delivery center in Vancouver today (Sunday). I suspect it will be out for delivery tomorrow morning. I’ll likely have it in hand by 11am tomorrow (about 15.5 hours from now lol). I’ll post pics when it arrives.

 

[Platomates]

It was processed at the local delivery center in Vancouver today (Sunday). I suspect it will be out for delivery tomorrow morning. I’ll likely have it in hand by 11am tomorrow (about 15.5 hours from now lol). I’ll post pics when it arrives.

This feels like waiting on my favourite netflix series to be uploaded on a weekly basis. ha ha ha

 

[skinny_but_not_limp_wrist]

This feels like waiting on my favourite netflix series to be uploaded on a weekly basis. ha ha ha

one day it dawns on you to stagger your purchases, that way the high is maintained. pacing in everything!

 

[dogwood]

one day it dawns on you to stagger your purchases, that way the high is maintained. pacing in everything!

True. The race is long; and in the end, it’s only with yourself.

 

[Oascom]

Instant giveaway? Where exactly? Perhaps in zoomed in macro photos posted online but certainly not on the wrist.

I sleep much better not knowing what a correct serial font number looks like.

 

[japer]

I sleep much better not knowing what a correct serial font number looks like.

+1 (and the rest of the world who has no clue)..

 

[WatchSmith.US]

Which font is this one? The bad one or the ok one?

 

[derjenigewelcher]

No doubt- my dealer assumed C+ is using mixed parts before shipping out newer batches. The one that passed in my hands was pure shit.

Master roshi sticker on caseback, old insert, incorrect bezel assembly (same as GSC uses, although has way better click than the gen spec CF assembly) 116710 engraved between the lugs and also serial number engraved between the lugs. I hope that watch was some sort of error.

On the other hand, the CF look terrific. I should add a bezel lip, wish I had some free time to do it.
EDIT: Should be said this specimen has gen crystal, gen datewheel and gen hands.

Hey Nikz, I really am looking for the GSC bezel construction on a gmt master watch. Where do you get this or is there a TD that sells those?
I saw that Trustytime sells "VSF" GMT Masters, are those the ones?
Readed something about GSC relatet to "VS" using old leftover 3186 Movement case parts from CF?

 

[derjenigewelcher]

Which font is this one? The bad one or the ok one?

Instant tell - font from AP

 

[dogwood]

Which font is this one? The bad one or the ok one?

It’s impossible to tell because the picture was taken when you were skiing faster than 40mph.

 

[derjenigewelcher]

It’s impossible to tell because the picture was taken when you were skiing faster than 40mph.

I KNEW it was him - my 2 year old son (who is blind on one eye) has discovered him from the other side of the valley while soing a backflip

 

[dogwood]

EDIT: it turns out the CF v1 is not actually a CF v1. It’s a CF v1 with a custom ceramic insert from an unknown source (not Xing).

Ok here we go... my CF v2 Pepsi arrived and I have some pics that compare the bezel insert to the CF v1 Pepsi (actually no, see above). The V2 is always on the left, the v1 is always on the right. The only thing that changes between the pictures is how I positioned the two lights that illuminate the stage of my microscope.




And finally a short video that shows how the two different bezels look in low light with a UV LED illuminating them.