Building a 5513 - Tutorial

[Karbon74]

thanks guys

 

[Karbon74]

i will but the Ali too. I have an Ali tube inbound and a Raffles crown tube inbound too

but your above suggestion look good and will serve, if not this one, a next one

 

[GenuineFool]

do you know how to make spider dials? could not find how

I've never tried this, but I was doing some internet research trying to figure out a way to do this. and there are people who age guitars so the varnish is cracked like it is vintage. The guitar needs a nitrocellulose finish, then you alternate heat (blow dryer) and cold (compressed air can held upside down) to force cracking. This video shows the technique very well:

If anyone tries putting a nitrocellulose coat on a dial and creating a spider dial, I'd love to see how it turns out. I haven't had the time to go down this rabbit hole yet...

 

[369mafia]

Interesting technique. ...someone asked me a few weeks about a spider dial ..and I think it can be done even easier than this .

Gloss clear coat spray in a can.
plastic wrap
spray the surface of the dial .
apply the plastic wrap and press onto dial surface with wrinkles.
remove plastic
let dry
should resemble something similar to a spider dial I have not tried this on a watch dial but have done it on automotive , bike and furniture and it works pretty well so I think it may be worth trying . I suggest you practice first before doing this to your favorite dial

 

[matzemedia]

Perfect! What an interesting thread with suggestions for the conversion. A dial with cracks is especially exciting with glossy dials. As far as I know, the dial of the model 5513 was only glossy in the last generations. The majority of the 5513's dials were matt.


I found a tutorial on how to age a matte dial. It describes a combination of relume and processing with coffee.

So far I only tried the 1st step and gave my Yuki dial a texture at the dots. The paint I used is a mixture of lacquer, acrylic paint and illuminant. I used a needle as a "brush". I'm quite satisfied for the first time, but there's still potential for improvement. Here are a few pictures.

 

[C Master]

The majority of the 5513's dials were matt.

Yes as far as I know it was only the last iteration, the transitional dial, before the 16800 that was gloss. This also had white gold indices unlike its predecessors. So spidering really only occurs from 1984 onward. I have one on my 5513 and it had started to crack around the 11 mark. Someone repaired it. I have seen plenty of 16610s with spider dials.

As for 5512s in the 60s there were many variations of the 5512 dial. Gloss, matt, gilt, half gilt, meters first, feet first. It looked like it depended on what the supervisor of the day thought the dial should look like. I know very little compared to the real experts on here but that is my take on it.

 

[Nur-Uhr]

Regarding the dials:

The Submariner 5513 was build for a long period (compared to now)
They started in 1962 and ended in 1989
Until 1983 - they used the matt dials.
With 1983 they starte with the gloss dial until the end of production in 1989
If a watch needed an official "service dial" = these are only "Swiss" gloss dials with white gold indices surounding.

The direct successor model of the 5513 was the 14060 which was introduced in 1989
Nearly identical to the latest 5513 models.... only difference, the 14060 had already sapphire crystal and the new movement cal. 3000


The 5512, as @C Master correctly explained, had lots of variation in their dials.
But also the Submariner 5512 was long time produced = from 1958 to 1978

 

[Nur-Uhr]

As for 5512s in the 60s there were many variations of the 5512 dial. Gloss, matt, gilt, half gilt, meters first, feet first. It looked like it depended on what the supervisor of the day thought the dial should look like. I know very little compared to the real experts on here but that is my take on it.

And also the "Certified" vs "Official Certified" print !
The 5512 had a lot of different dials ..... These dials are their own field of science

 

[C Master]

And also the "Certified" vs "Official Certified" print !
The 5512 had a lot of different dials ..... These dials are their own field of science

I am building a 5512 atm. I very soon realized anything goes when it comes to dial creation.

This is what I settled on thanks to @manodeoro and his skills.

Oh and we forgot. Chapter rings and no chapter rings on the 5512 lol.

 

[onsight]

That's a great tutorial. I'm a long way off from attempting anything like that, but it sure looks like a lot of fun.

 

[Karbon74]

guess who fucked up his keyless works and snaped the stem

I was trying to fix the click click. what a mess.
I will keep the stock 2836 for practice and order another from Ali

 

[Karbon74]

I am pissed with myself but something is good in this.
As I will keep this "first build" watch, it is getting a seagull movement. This just speeds up the process.

 

[Winni1611]

I am pissed with myself but something is good in this.
As I will keep this "first build" watch, it is getting a seagull movement. This just speeds up the process.

Thats why I never use 2824/2836, messed up with the keyless works 2 Times and was not able to fix it.
I now always go with NH38 if it's a no date watch. If I build one with date I use PT5000. Both workhorses with no problems so far.

 

[Winni1611]

When it comes to dial dots I now use noctilumina products. They are easy to work with, have a good "flow" and look really nice. Have tried many other ways before but this works best for me

 

[Karbon74]

Thats why I never use 2824/2836, messed up with the keyless works 2 Times and was not able to fix it.
I now always go with NH38 if it's a no date watch. If I build one with date I use PT5000. Both workhorses with no problems so far.

does the nh38 fit in the jkf case?

 

[Winni1611]

I suppose. The raffles cases I use both fit 2824 and NH38, so if jfk case can use 28xx , NH38 will fit too

 

[Karbon74]

I suppose. The raffles cases I use both fit 2824 and NH38, so if jfk case can use 28xx , NH38 will fit too

and where do you source dials and hands?

 

[DeLoMan]

guess who fucked up his keyless works and snaped the stem

I was trying to fix the click click. what a mess.
I will keep the stock 2836 for practice and order another from Ali

I feel your pain. I did this to two different 2836 movements and wasn’t able to repair them. I’ve since sworn off on them. Only using Miyota, DG, or NH35 now.

 

[Karbon74]

i

I feel your pain. I did this to two different 2836 movements and wasn’t able to repair them. I’ve since sworn off on them. Only using Miyota, DG, or NH35 now.

wonder if that only with the cheap A clones or if it's the same with more expensive Seagull or even Sellita/ETA

 

[Winni1611]

and where do you source dials and hands?

I buy it from Raffles too. They have both feet for Eta and NH35/38. PT5000 is a riliable eta clone so the feet work too