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BP Re-Releases 5-Digit Submariners with VR3135

Waspy

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Yes bro

Thanks bro, I have one of these for pressing things back on.

ZJSlRi.jpg
 
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aHero

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For either LN or LV I would choose BP now. The BP bezel construction is now just like a 6 digit and the CGs are better. Who can forget all the RAFARF bezel issues requiring an extra bezel tension ring (large washer) and a replacement click?

Both LVs need work - the ARF LV dial hour markers have badly mismatched (and way too green) lume plots compared to the hands. The BP LV has all maxi hands instead of just a maxi minute hand. Sourcing and replacing the hands is easier and cheaper than a dial.
So fair to say the ARF/RAF are closer to gen (construction) but the BP benefits from the modern 6 digit bezel action?
 
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aHero

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Seems all BP’s have rehaut engraving based on what I’m seeing on Trusty’s site.
 

hollywoodrollie

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Thanks bro, I have one of these for pressing things back on.

ZJSlRi.jpg

Hey Waspy,

See my previous ports on this thread. I'm currently working through replacing the bezel insert but it's turning out to be a small project :)
After I popped the bezel with the knife, it came off with the crystal attached to it. Apparently, this is common. Maybe if I had used a bezel removal tool instead of a knife this would have been avoided.

Next step was to separate the crystal from the bezel and then I was able able to remove the insert.

Now I have to reinstall the crystal on the case. To do that I have to disassemble the crystal + gasket + retaining ring sandwich and put it back together on the with gasket + crystal first, then press the retaining ring on top.

This is where I'm currently stuck because I need a custom die to separate the metal retaining ring from the crystal and gasket. I'm testing different solutions including a 3D printed die and a stainless steel bezel etc.

See @KJ2020's posts on this thread and this guide here for an idea of what's involved.
 

RobSe1

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Hey Waspy,

See my previous ports on this thread. I'm currently working through replacing the bezel insert but it's turning out to be a small project :)
After I popped the bezel with the knife, it came off with the crystal attached to it. Apparently, this is common. Maybe if I had used a bezel removal tool instead of a knife this would have been avoided.

Next step was to separate the crystal from the bezel and then I was able able to remove the insert.

Now I have to reinstall the crystal on the case. To do that I have to disassemble the crystal + gasket + retaining ring sandwich and put it back together on the with gasket + crystal first, then press the retaining ring on top.

This is where I'm currently stuck because I need a custom die to separate the metal retaining ring from the crystal and gasket. I'm testing different solutions including a 3D printed die and a stainless steel bezel etc.

See @KJ2020's posts on this thread and this guide here for an idea of what's involved.
is the stock BP insert glued or pressure fit?
 

hollywoodrollie

Getting To Know The Place
12/12/23
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Maybe buy one of these and use the bezel from it. I can't find the bezel only anywhere but it's not that expensive for the whole case anyway.

This might be it: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256...st_main.5.29671802MoQl78&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Inner diameter is 31.7 which is pretty close to what I estimated it would need to be (31.65). I have a friend with a 3D printer and he printed a 31.65 die for me. If it fits at least it will confirm the correct ID even if the 3D printed die is not strong enough.
 

hollywoodrollie

Getting To Know The Place
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is the stock BP insert glued or pressure fit?

It's was glued. I cleaned up the residue with alcohol and goo gone. I'll have to try and see if pressure fit is good enough, if not I'll use sticky tape for the new one.
 
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Waspy

Renowned Member
18/8/14
666
503
93
Wiltshire
Hey Waspy,

See my previous ports on this thread. I'm currently working through replacing the bezel insert but it's turning out to be a small project :)
After I popped the bezel with the knife, it came off with the crystal attached to it. Apparently, this is common. Maybe if I had used a bezel removal tool instead of a knife this would have been avoided.

Next step was to separate the crystal from the bezel and then I was able able to remove the insert.

Now I have to reinstall the crystal on the case. To do that I have to disassemble the crystal + gasket + retaining ring sandwich and put it back together on the with gasket + crystal first, then press the retaining ring on top.

This is where I'm currently stuck because I need a custom die to separate the metal retaining ring from the crystal and gasket. I'm testing different solutions including a 3D printed die and a stainless steel bezel etc.

See @KJ2020's posts on this thread and this guide here for an idea of what's involved.
Thanks mate,

I remember a while back this happened to me with a 116610, I took the bezel off and everything else came off with it. I eventually got it all back together but I can't remember exactly how, it was 3 or 4 years ago. I'm the same with computers, I learn how to fix a problem and then forget it, a few years later and I have to get Googling to re-learn it all over again.
 
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RobSe1

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It's was glued. I cleaned up the residue with alcohol and goo gone. I'll have to try and see if pressure fit is good enough, if not I'll use sticky tape for the new one.
like hypo cement or like adhesive tape.
you think heating the bezel a bit and trying to pry the insert out without removing the bezel would go?
 

hollywoodrollie

Getting To Know The Place
12/12/23
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like hypo cement or like adhesive tape.
you think heating the bezel a bit and trying to pry the insert out without removing the bezel would go?
Hypo cement or similar, no tape. Here's the bezel, right after I remove the insert, red arrow showing the left over glue residue.



I've seen a video of this guy using nail polish remover to disolve the glue and remove the insert. I don't know how safe this is on the cyclops lens or other components.

 

KJ2020

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like hypo cement or like adhesive tape.
you think heating the bezel a bit and trying to pry the insert out without removing the bezel would go?
I advise removing the movement/dial/hands before applying heat to a bezel. The kind of heat needed to soften rep factory adhesive is not good for any of those parts.

As a side note I have never succeeded in removing an insert this way though I have read about others doing so.

I have managed to pry inserts out by using a very sharp razor tip tool. Tape up the crystal and use it as a fulcrum. Work the tip under the insert inner perimeter and gently scrape away enough adhesive to increase your grip. Eventually you can get enough gap to insert a strip of plastic dial protector or similar and use it to safely create more separation.

But this technique carries a risk of nicking or scratching the insert. It's only really beneficial on bezels with wire clips where bezel removal is significantly more tedious. Ofc if the insert is being replaced, you may not worry about damaging it in which case this would be my preferred method if you don't want to remove the bezel.

Detailed pics and explanations of 6 digit bezel construction are posted here.

Personally I would not use acetone on a bezel still installed on a watch. It's so viscous that the quantity used is hard to control and it can wick uphill past the crystal gasket to the dial.

For those wanting to try it, at least remove the movement first and applying it carefully with a syringe is a great way to control the flow amount. Acetone will not hurt aluminum insert paint. It will eat away ceramic insert marker fill, something to be aware of.
 
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hollywoodrollie

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12/12/23
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On the 16610LN bezel insert situation, here are the measurements:

- bezel inner diameter 37.55
- BP bezel insert 37.34 (this one drops in with zero friction, requires glue to stay on)
- Horlogear 37.57 (I can't get it to seat, it will either take some extra elbow grease, sanding or pressing in? to fit)

Here are a couple of videos of the original insert and the black Horlogear fit

 

KJ2020

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On the 16610LN bezel insert situation, here are the measurements:

- bezel inner diameter 37.55
- BP bezel insert 37.34 (this one drops in with zero friction, requires glue to stay on)
- Horlogear 37.57 (I can't get it to seat, it will either take some extra elbow grease, sanding or pressing in? to fit)

Here are a couple of videos of the original insert and the black Horlogear fit

OK those are very useful measurements. So that means the bezel and the insert are not gen-spec and this rep will not take a gen insert. Looks like the Horlogear (or it's much cheaper Alibaba equivalent from Sillan vendor but you have to buy two) is the best bet if you want a replacement.

If you can't get the Horlogear to seat, you can try using a press tool like pictured below. Keep thumb pressure on the seated half, then initially push inward with the press tool and then roll/push downward to pop it home. It can take a GREAT amount of downward pressure to do this.

Something else that can help sometimes is creating an upward slope to the insert. You can do this with just two thumbs gently bending upward on the inner perimeter. Or place the insert over a long neck bottle and gently press the outer perimeter downward. This effectively decreases the OD and can ease the fitting task.

jlatD2.jpg


jlalb3.jpg


jlaC5s.jpg


Failing that, it's very easy to shave a little off the OD. Tape a piece of 400 grit paper to a bench, hold the insert on edge and swipe roll it about 10 times in a 30° or so arc. Move to the next arc, overlap a little and repeat all the way around. Angle a little toward the backside so you don't nick up the painted side. You can touch up the edge with a Sharpie if desired.

I don't have a pic handy of doing this on an insert but it's the exact way that I shave a dial by hand. Easy peasy.

See thread below for pics
 
Last edited:

hollywoodrollie

Getting To Know The Place
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OK those are very useful measurements. So that means the bezel and the insert are not gen-spec and this rep will not take a gen insert. Looks like the Horlogear (or it's much cheaper Alibaba equivalent from Sillan vendor but you have to buy two) is the best bet if you want a replacement.

If you can't get the Horlogear to seat, you can try using a press tool like pictured below. Keep thumb pressure on the seated half, then initially push inward with the press tool and then roll/push downward to pop it home.

jlatD2.jpg


jlalb3.jpg


jlaC5s.jpg


Failing that, it's very easy to shave a little off the OD. Tape a piece of 400 grit paper to a bench, hold the insert on edge and swipe roll it about 10 times in a 30° or so arc. Move to the next arc, overlap a little and repeat all the way around. Angle a little toward the backside so you don't nick up the painted side. You can touch up the edge with a Sharpie if desired.

I don't have a pic handy of doing this on an insert but it's the exact way that I shave a dial by hand. Easy peasy.

See thread below for pics

Yep, sanding seems pretty straight forward. It would make it easier to align with the 12 o'clock index this way.
 

Zen_der

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Sembra che l'Horlogear (o l'equivalente Alibaba molto più economico del venditore Sillan ma devi comprarne due) sia la soluzione migliore se vuoi un sostituto.

OK those are very useful measurements. So that means the bezel and the insert are not gen-spec and this rep will not take a gen insert. Looks like the Horlogear (or it's much cheaper Alibaba equivalent from Sillan vendor but you have to buy two) is the best bet if you want a replacement.

If you can't get the Horlogear to seat, you can try using a press tool like pictured below. Keep thumb pressure on the seated half, then initially push inward with the press tool and then roll/push downward to pop it home.

jlatD2.jpg


jlalb3.jpg


jlaC5s.jpg


Failing that, it's very easy to shave a little off the OD. Tape a piece of 400 grit paper to a bench, hold the insert on edge and swipe roll it about 10 times in a 30° or so arc. Move to the next arc, overlap a little and repeat all the way around. Angle a little toward the backside so you don't nick up the painted side. You can touch up the edge with a Sharpie if desired.

I don't have a pic handy of doing this on an insert but it's the exact way that I shave a dial by hand. Easy peasy.

See thread below for pics
are the equivalent sillan inserts gen-spec? could you post the link? thanks
 

RobSe1

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Yep, sanding seems pretty straight forward. It would make it easier to align with the 12 o'clock index this way.
i had this with a BP 16600 Seadweller few years ago, too. I bought a gen Insert and it was to tall. I also sanded the outer rim until i was able to press it in.
 

hollywoodrollie

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