- 2/11/12
- 998
- 891
- 93
That is fantastic. So much more personality than the most recent models. Love the goofy clasp.
VR and SH are the manufacturer?
Thanks!
VR and SH are used to describe the movements.
That is fantastic. So much more personality than the most recent models. Love the goofy clasp.
VR and SH are the manufacturer?
Thanks!
That is fantastic. So much more personality than the most recent models. Love the goofy clasp.
VR and SH are the manufacturer?
Thanks!
VR and SH are referring to some movement models that are manufactured in Shanghai, China.
VR is arguably the second best 3135 clones. They are reliable and pretty good in build quality. I personally have had 4 of them. They are pretty good and reliable.
And people claim that SH V2 are manufactured by the same factory as VR.
Interesting thank you. I am such a stickler for movement accuracy I have had to relax my expectations with replicas. The build quality on my GM Explorer II seems excellent, but it's running 10 seconds per day slow. I have had ETA 2824 that were almost perfect.
Still a gorgeous watch and I am happy overall!
The BP bracelet feels a bit rough and sharp on the edges (when i run my finger across the bracelet, i can feel my fingers kinda catching on the brushings).
Do you think the ARF bracelet itself feels better than the BP?
I see Alibaba sells the ARF bracelet but it’s $200, which is very steep relative to the whole BP watch
What bezel is that? Love it. And is that a bp case?Love doing 5 digit builds
I bought 3 RAFs and 3 ARFs and started to pic the best parts for a Franken. There is a lot of variation, and I learned that there are 2 different RAF cases and bracelets. (Easy spot is the crown guard shape)What bezel is that? Love it. And is that a bp case?
If you can find a 16610LV RAF, you wont have the issue And imo, case and bracelet is better (There are 2 versions of the RAF case and bracelet, you need to find the good one )Guys! Really love the LV but mismatch lume is a no go for my ocd.. is it worth switching in a BP LV dial and hands or are they of sub par quality?
The BP case with the chamfers and non gen bezel construction is one thing but what about dial print and hands?
If you can find a 16610LV RAF, you wont have the issue And imo, case and bracelet is better (There are 2 versions of the RAF case and bracelet, you need to find the good one )
If you wanna stick with the ARF, just relume the hands
How do i find the "right" RAF-Version? Is there something i can tell my TD to make sure i don't get the "bad one"?There are 2 versions of the RAF case and bracelet, you need to find the good one
Sadly no, RAF and ARF are all over the place in regards to consistency. So it is hit and miss. Order one, have a look at the QC pics, look for CG and bracelet finishing (The good ones usually have a nicely beveled bracelet edge)How do i find the "right" RAF-Version? Is there something i can tell my TD to make sure i don't get the "bad one"?
Where can you get one? Doesn't seem to be available on their siteLatest Horlogear insert has flat four, it seems.