- 2/11/12
- 999
- 891
- 93
At this point: I have no clue what the difference is between ARF and RAF.
What is I told you that there is no real difference…
At this point: I have no clue what the difference is between ARF and RAF.
My preference is the mk1 dial. If it's not too difficult I would change the lume dots.I'm still thinking about moving the lumedots to the Arf dial to get the matk 1 dial instead.. Please help me decide people
There is. I've had 5 different RAF and ARF watches in hand over the last 2 months, so far, i've seen 3 different case variations (Main difference is crown guards) and 2 different bracelet/clasp variations. 2 different crystals, and there is a difference in dials, and inlays both on the LN and LVWhat is I told you that there is no real difference…
ARF = Always Randomized FactoryThere is. I've had 5 different RAF and ARF watches in hand over the last 2 months, so far, i've seen 3 different case variations (Main difference is crown guards) and 2 different bracelet/clasp variations. 2 different crystals, and there is a difference in dials, and inlays both on the LN and LV
There is. I've had 5 different RAF and ARF watches in hand over the last 2 months, so far, i've seen 3 different case variations (Main difference is crown guards) and 2 different bracelet/clasp variations. 2 different crystals, and there is a difference in dials, and inlays both on the LN and LV
There is. I've had 5 different RAF and ARF watches in hand over the last 2 months, so far, i've seen 3 different case variations (Main difference is crown guards) and 2 different bracelet/clasp variations. 2 different crystals, and there is a difference in dials, and inlays both on the LN and LV
I have a Seiko Mod -background kinda too. It got really boring and parts were mostly just crap or people just do "custom builds" that are just Blieger dial swaps.@Lampa you make it look too easy!
@FaekieOne I feel your pain. I just finished my first proper build - certainly a little more involved than a seikomod.. ! Spent nearly half an hour just trying to seat the seconds hand correctly let alone trying to keep the dial scratch free..
And…How TF do you guys keep the damn dust away. I must have cleaned my dial and crystal 10 times and was still finding bits !
Mark 1 is my choice..I'm still thinking about moving the lumedots to the Arf dial to get the matk 1 dial instead.. Please help me decide people
Love those flat fours! Bummed I missed out on this iteration.
You haven't missed out, grab one from a TDLove those flat fours! Bummed I missed out on this iteration.
Ohh I thought they weren't coming w flat fours anymoreYou haven't missed out, grab one from a TD
Lmk how it goes!Yep, still available. Just ordered one myself. I couldn't resist.
I got my flat four a month ago from a dealer.Ohh I thought they weren't coming w flat fours anymore
Sorry, but this is a wrong thread for a cheap vintage GMT build. This is ARF 16610 Submariner thread. Maybe start your own thread about GMT’s? You need a correct size dial (maybe BP from a TD or Raffles) and a DW overlay (Raffles). Cheap vintage bracelets and clasps are also available at Rafflesdials. Hands depend what movement you’re going to use.Funny you guys mention Blige builds consisting of little more than dial swaps. They have the retro version of the gmt root beer I want minus the Rolex logo’s. Without the logos it loses something for me. That got me thinking that I’m going to have to Frankenstein a monster of my own together. I seen an arf band on aliexpress for an arm and leg and I thought yep that’s the same band as on my $50 shitter. Where’s the best place to get good old style rep dials bands and clasps? Are used parts the only option? I appreciate any advice you fellow have.