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ZZF New 116610LN Submariner 3135 V2 Releasing!

stufuse

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Interesting- thanks for that info I was wondering that myself.

I thought the SA, SH & VR movements were actually all slightly different. From what I remember reading the VR movement is the newest 3135 clone. And some dealers are listing the newer releases (like the noob v10) as having the SA3135 but they are actually VR3135’s.

I’m no expert but maybe someone can chime in if that made any sense.

I think the VR is actually an SH variant, coined VR by memebers on the fora. Not an SA, the SAs you used to see in noobs and in bp watches don’t take many gen parts where as the SH does.


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Hinclimincli

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sadly they all look pretty accurate in daylight but far to dull in low light.

I have done a video showing this clearly amongst other faults on this thread

You are absolutely right. I did clean my insert thoroughly with soap and a good toothbrush and didn’t change much.

The thing is I can’t even find Spongebob’s details as the PMs so I don’t have a clue on how to get a good insert from him.

Other alternatives would be to get the ARF insert but as I understand it would not fit without glue and this would make it sit tall. Is there any other custom maker of decent Sub inserts that could fit in the ZZF? I’d like to avoid spending too much on a genuine insert...
 

GMT-3

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Hello people! I'm new here as a member, but I've been following the forum for a long time and I confess, I've never seen such great marketing as this one from ZZF V2. Today I am deciding which submariner movement 3135 to buy and my question is between ARF V3 SH3135 or ZZF V2 VR3135. I know that a lot has already been discussed about these two models, but over time, and many of you have had your experiences with the ZZF V2, I would like to know if it really is as good as the advertising. and between pros and cons what better option for those who want to wear the watch without making changes: ARF V3 VS ZZF V2.
 
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James2020

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Hello people! I'm new here as a member, but I've been following the forum for a long time and I confess, I've never seen such great marketing as this one from ZZF V2. Today I am deciding which submariner movement 3135 to buy and my question is between ARF V3 SH3135 or ZZF V2 VR3135. I know that a lot has already been discussed about these two models, but over time, and many of you have had your experiences with the ZZF V2, I would like to know if it really is as good as the advertising. and between pros and cons what better option for those who want to wear the watch without making changes: ARF V3 VS ZZF V2.

Someone has done a comparison before in the below thread:
https://forum.replica-watch.info/fo...as/8974322-zzf-116610ln-v2-vs-arf-116610ln-v3

If you need to search for info, i find it easier to do it on google and add “rwi” as the last word before you click on search. That’s what I did to find the above thread
 
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TLW77

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I did the toothbrush trick on arf v3 ln and pearl popped out as a result. So be careful with this. I don't own zzf v2 but I have v2s lv and arf v3 ln and imo zzf is way closer to the gen swiss watches than arf. Arf bezel is too loose and crystal is too high.
 

Bonguy

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I have a fundamental doubt, please pardon me if this is already answered elsewhere. Is the ZZF Submariner 116610 LN ver 2 A2836 version released? Or does it only come with the 3135 movement?

If the 2836 ver2 has released, where is it available? Pure time site and couple of other TD sites that I checked does not even list the 2836 version (the updated version 2 is what I'm asking about), only the 3135 version 2.

Any info will be much appreciated.
 

Hinclimincli

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I have a fundamental doubt, please pardon me if this is already answered elsewhere. Is the ZZF Submariner 116610 LN ver 2 A2836 version released? Or does it only come with the 3135 movement?

If the 2836 ver2 has released, where is it available? Pure time site and couple of other TD sites that I checked does not even list the 2836 version (the updated version 2 is what I'm asking about), only the 3135 version 2.

Any info will be much appreciated.


It is indeed, and you can buy it from JTime itself:

 
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Hinclimincli

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Would that be the ZZF (version Y) as many are calling it? I would like to know what his movement is and if you made any changes.

It’s a stock ZZF v2 with a 2836 (Asian) inside. No mods, no nothing. Took it out off the box, set the time and put it on my wrist.
 
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Hinclimincli

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Funny enough, you can see how different the insert numerals look depending on the light/shade:
 

GMT-3

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It’s a stock ZZF v2 with a 2836 (Asian) inside. No mods, no nothing. Took it out off the box, set the time and put it on my wrist.


Beautiful watch!
By the serial number, you can see that it is the version that uses Y instead of X. I noticed in the photos that your watch does not have this excessive decline in the center of the dial. I don't know if it is a correction made by ZZF on all models of this "version Y" or it is random.
 

GMT-3

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Hello guy! Some of these watches show an excessive decline in the center of the dial and, depending on how the light reflects off the crystal, there is a feeling that there is something wrong with the dial. Some versions of the submariner gen have a similar decline, but the ZZF seems more pronounced. Perhaps a crystal quality has an influence on this. Anyway, even ZZFs that present this "problem", it is only noticeable according to the ambient lighting.
 
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Hinclimincli

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Here a picture of a ZZF posted by one of the forum members

You can see plenty of examples of genuine Rolex dials with that dimple in this same thread. It’s perfectly normal. This watch is a cut above the rest except for the insert. And I can’t understand the comments about the bracelet, I find it great and not rattle at all (and I’ve had ARFs before, as well as a genuine Tudor and a Ginault which is supposed to be even better than an ARF). People love to nitpick on stuff and others just follow without having even held the watch in their hands.