Time_Wizard also mentioned about a flaw in the bezel on RG models. Maybe this is what you were referring to?
it has been discussed quite a bit in this thread. Apparently the best way is using bent springbars. Or ge a tool to bend springbars your self.
Hey guys,
Can I get your opinion on the QC pics of my watch?
I'm afraid the lume on the hands is too yellowish/greenish.
I've seen VSF Seamasters with better white lume so I'm not sure whether to RL/GL.
Also the bezel finishing at 20 looks odd to me, but maybe that's just the lighting.
Time_Wizard also mentioned about a flaw in the bezel on RG models. Maybe this is what you were referring to?
Quick questions for those that have V2.
Is it normal to see a bit of gap above and below the datewheel when you look at the date window at a slant angle?
Please see Pic. I just noticed this earlier today. It's hard to capture this but I see some metal (probably the movement).
Its pretty much the same on the GEN. There is gap but is slightly smaller. Honestly you wont be able to see the difference without a magnifier.
No.
The flaw is, that on the rep the engraving in the ceramic inlay is not filled up afterwards. On the GEN it looks like the RG numbers and the black bezel are on the same level. On the REP one can see, that there is an indentation. I can live with it, cuz its not really visible from an arms length. Side by Side its definitely visible.
Here is a comparison where its is visible: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...gen-comparison
No.
The flaw is, that on the rep the engraving in the ceramic inlay is not filled up afterwards. On the GEN it looks like the RG numbers and the black bezel are on the same level. On the REP one can see, that there is an indentation. I can live with it, cuz its not really visible from an arms length. Side by Side its definitely visible.
Here is a comparison where its is visible: https://forum.replica-watch.info/for...gen-comparison
Hey guys,
Can I get your opinion on the QC pics of my watch?
I'm afraid the lume on the hands is too yellowish/greenish.
I've seen VSF Seamasters with better white lume so I'm not sure whether to RL/GL.
Also the bezel finishing at 20 looks odd to me, but maybe that's just the lighting.
The bastard sold you a V1 bracelet
The bastard sold you a V1 bracelet
the bastard would be me and I am acting in good faith here. I was told by the seller of the original watch that this was a V2 bracelet (that came with my V2 Omega Seamaster 300M) and I had 2 experienced members here confirm it was a V2 bracelet before I sold it.
I hold noone accountable for this. If this really is a V1 bracelet, I will make this transaction right. In fact, even if this is a V2 and it doesn't work for John_Mary, I will take back the bracelet and refund the money, no problem.
The buyer and I are trying to see if there is way to make this bracelet work on his watch. I highly doubt this is a V1 bracelet but we will wait for some more opinions (or maybe if you're experienced with this, please help us out).
Thanks
Sorry brother I thought the seller wasn’t a member here at all, but some mischievous 3rd party, my bad on that, but yes effectively because of the width of the mid link it’s either a V1 or an OMF bracelet, some other members might chime in soon, my apologies bro