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The Vintage DateJust Thread

Nur-Uhr

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Pardon me I usually read threads but I was wondering if anyonr had built or could point me to threads relating to the 34mm Engine Turned Bezel Datejusts?


I know that @pompompurin built in the past also some 34mm Date / AirKing and also Tudor models.
And he made this also very accurate.
 
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Iksander

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Is this a gen case or a rep case? I know raffles has 36mm version but haven't seen a 34mm other than gen.
Gen case. They are not expensive.
Raffles does have 34mm cases.
They are decent but don’t like the caseback.
 

cradle101

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My last DateJust build was a 16030, which I built based on a Raffles case back in 2022. I then used a Clarks 25-135 plexi. However, I'm not really happy with the plexi. Are there any 'newer'/better alternatives which have come out recently. Or what would be the most gen like plexi at the moment?
 

Nur-Uhr

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My last DateJust build was a 16030, which I built based on a Raffles case back in 2022. I then used a Clarks 25-135 plexi. However, I'm not really happy with the plexi. Are there any 'newer'/better alternatives which have come out recently. Or what would be the most gen like plexi at the moment?
Try the Sternkreuz Plexi...
Those are so accurate (especially for 1680 and 5512/5513 I can say this) - really great ones.

I have had on my 16013 also an aftermarket one... not Clarks, I think from Cousins UK one... But I am not sure which manufacturer it was - it was also a nice one and very GEN like from shape and beveled edges.
 
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intellects

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Try the Sternkreuz Plexi...
Those are so accurate (especially for 1680 and 5512/5513 I can say this) - really great ones.

I have had on my 16013 also an aftermarket one... not Clarks, I think from Cousins UK one... But I am not sure which manufacturer it was - it was also a nice one and very GEN like from shape and beveled edges.
Did you not have issues with the cyclops? On the last two I bought from Cousins, they had a funhouse mirror effect so were unusable. Do you have a product code or link to the ones you were using?
 

1016_idiot_savant

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Did you not have issues with the cyclops? On the last two I bought from Cousins, they had a funhouse mirror effect so were unusable. Do you have a product code or link to the ones you were using?
I have the same "funhouse mirror" issue, but I think it is because I must have pushed down on and deformed the cyclops when fitting the bezel ring. I have a second Sternkreutz crystal I bought as a backup, which does not have this effect.
 
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matzemedia

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I already post this request at the "Modification & Repairs" section. May be I get more response here.

Last year I finished the DJ36 with the tiffany blue dial from Raffles. It lookes nice. Here a pic from the current watch:



And anyhow I still look for a pan pan dial in tiffany blue. The pan pan dials are used in the early datejust with the ref. 1601 - 1603 and have a curved edge.

Here a image:



So my idea is to refinish a old 1603 dial using acryl color and toner transfer for the print. I have some experience with toner transfer and did my first prototyp. In the prototype, I wanted to find out whether the toner transfer also works with radius on the dial. To do this, I built a template by shaping a brass disc over a mould. The result is ok for me.




Now I would like to take the next step and use a gen 1603 dial. This could be a dial in poor condition. There are a few offers on Ebay - but even those are still too expensive for me to try. If one of you can sell a cheap dial, please write to me.
Well I took the time and did it and refurbished a old gen pan pan 1601 - 1603 dial. I found it on ebay it has a very bad print - may be because of a water damage. So I didn't have a bad conscience.

Here some pictures from the build:

The original pan pan dial:


After removing the digits: It was very difficult to get rid of them. I removed the adhesive from the back and used a razor blade to grab under the index.

Removing the old color with sandpaper.

I was wondering that the dial is silver and not gold from brass.


I used a air brush to add the new acryl color. After that it gets a clear coat.



For the new print I used Affiliate Designer and designed the vector file that I used with a laser printer to make a toner transfer.



Here you see the final print

And here after I add index, lume and put everything together

Here we are! I am very happy about the result.

Just a short story about the watch. It is about 15 years ago, I have been to Barcelona where I found an old Datejust at a market. That was a moment I felt in love to this Tiffany blue dial. At this time I was too cautious buying the watch. I also didn't know if it was gen or a replica. Now I know that there was no gen 1603 Datejust with Tiffany blue dial. So it was at least one of the refurbished dials someone created.
 

dpd3672

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Beautiful work, would you mind sharing the vector dial for the file? I wouldn't mind having it my "collection."
 
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pullthat92

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I'm building with a 16030 Gen case, and I'm wondering if a 1603 bezel will fit. Has anyone tried it?

Are there differences between the 1603 and 16030 in terms of the case or bezel, aside from the movement?
 

Nur-Uhr

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I'm building with a 16030 Gen case, and I'm wondering if a 1603 bezel will fit. Has anyone tried it?

Are there differences between the 1603 and 16030 in terms of the case or bezel, aside from the movement?
When the diameter inside is = 30,1 mm and outside is = 34,6 mm than it is the same
These two diameters are from a GEN engine turned 16030 bezel.

Here the pics:
hwSyPs.jpeg

hwSYo3.jpeg
 
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intellects

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@intellects & @1016_idiot_savant
I would not say, that it had this "funhouse" effect ... see the pic below.
Unfortunately I do not have any product no. or somethin else anymore. I ordered this also quite a while ago.



hGHbdv.jpeg


Ignore the dial fitment, was a test fit. I had this effect with two Sternkreuz plexis. One of them I’m not sure I actually pressed on so I feel like they came like this. I think @Replicated had the same issue with a bunch.
 
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automatico

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When the diameter inside is = 30,1 mm and outside is = 34,6 mm than it is the same
These two diameters are from a GEN engine turned 16030 bezel.


The IDs are the same but the 160xx bezels might be a hair taller than 160xx bezels and bezels for 162xx are taller than 16xx or 160xx for sure.
I have quite few genuine steel ET bezels somewhere but by the time I find them, everyone will be asleep.

Have a few genuine 18K fluted bezels handy...
One fluted 18K bezel labeled for 160xx is 1.90mm high, two others are 2.0mm high. The thinner one might be for a 16xx and in the wrong box.
Fluted 18K bezels for 162xx DJ are 2.5mm high.
Steel bezels may be slightly different thicknesses than gold...been a while since I worked a gen-u-ine Rlx.
Maybe I can dig the SS bezels out tomorrow, measure a few, and post the numbers. Don't know if I'll have time to find them.
 
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pullthat92

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When the diameter inside is = 30,1 mm and outside is = 34,6 mm than it is the same
These two diameters are from a GEN engine turned 16030 bezel.


The IDs are the same but the 160xx bezels might be a hair taller than 160xx bezels and bezels for 162xx are taller than 16xx or 160xx for sure.
I have quite few genuine steel ET bezels somewhere but by the time I find them, everyone will be asleep.

Have a few genuine 18K fluted bezels handy...
One fluted 18K bezel labeled for 160xx is 1.90mm high, two others are 2.0mm high. The thinner one might be for a 16xx and in the wrong box.
Fluted 18K bezels for 162xx DJ are 2.5mm high.
Steel bezels may be slightly different thicknesses than gold...been a while since I worked a gen-u-ine Rlx.
Maybe I can dig the SS bezels out tomorrow, measure a few, and post the numbers. Don't know if I'll have time to find them.
Thanks! So, it seems like there's hardly any difference between the 1603 and 16030 bezels.