- 16/10/23
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I bought a 1603 bezel. Once it arrives I'll measure the Id, Od, and height, and I'll share it here.
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The Vintage DateJust Thread
- Thread starter 1016_idiot_savant
- Start date
- 16/10/23
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I used it on two of my Raffles cases with both the genuine 16030 engine turned bezel.
Raffles bezel needs trimming on the inside.
Raffles bezel needs trimming on the inside.
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I would think not, as the date window position is different and the cyclops will probably not align.
- 16/10/23
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- 16/10/23
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- 14/10/19
- 2,692
- 12,040
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- 14/10/19
- 2,692
- 12,040
- 113
Just now measured a 'low mileage' steel engine turned 1603 bezel in very good condition and it is exactly 1.95mm high all the way around.
My guess is the 16xx bezels are not all exactly the same height so 1.9 to 2.1mm is probably Ok.
A genuine 'high mileage' 18K fluted 16003 bezel shows to be 1.64MM at the thinnest spot and the thickest spot is 1.75mm, showing how much solid gold bezels can wear over the years...and I've seen a lot worse than this one.
Btw...solid gold bezels can be stretched out of spec on crystals that are too big in diameter. Good idea to try an 'in spec' steel bezel on crystals that measure too big in OD after being pushed down on the case neck. Used to have a note with the ODs of acrylic 'in spec' crystals mounted on case necks but that was a looong time ago and I'll never find it.
Had a 15003 OPD that had 'been swimming' with a cracked crystal, then stored (on edge) half full of water for year or two. All that was good on the movement (cal 3035) was the balance assembly, jewel settings etc. The rest was very rusty or deeply tarnished, but the hairspring and balance staff were fine (must have been above the water).
The case had a lot of corrosion around the case back gasket area, the SS/18K bracelet was badly 'stretched' and looked like a bicycle chain.
You could not tell the crystal was cracked without looking at the crystal skirt between the bezel ID and case neck OD with a 10X loupe.
Everything stayed high and dry (no fogging) until the guy went swimming.
Bezels measured with a Mitutoyo Digimatic caliper.
'Stretched bracelet' is watch trader lingo for 'worn out bracelet'. Ha!
My guess is the 16xx bezels are not all exactly the same height so 1.9 to 2.1mm is probably Ok.
A genuine 'high mileage' 18K fluted 16003 bezel shows to be 1.64MM at the thinnest spot and the thickest spot is 1.75mm, showing how much solid gold bezels can wear over the years...and I've seen a lot worse than this one.
Btw...solid gold bezels can be stretched out of spec on crystals that are too big in diameter. Good idea to try an 'in spec' steel bezel on crystals that measure too big in OD after being pushed down on the case neck. Used to have a note with the ODs of acrylic 'in spec' crystals mounted on case necks but that was a looong time ago and I'll never find it.
Had a 15003 OPD that had 'been swimming' with a cracked crystal, then stored (on edge) half full of water for year or two. All that was good on the movement (cal 3035) was the balance assembly, jewel settings etc. The rest was very rusty or deeply tarnished, but the hairspring and balance staff were fine (must have been above the water).
The case had a lot of corrosion around the case back gasket area, the SS/18K bracelet was badly 'stretched' and looked like a bicycle chain.
You could not tell the crystal was cracked without looking at the crystal skirt between the bezel ID and case neck OD with a 10X loupe.
Everything stayed high and dry (no fogging) until the guy went swimming.
Bezels measured with a Mitutoyo Digimatic caliper.
'Stretched bracelet' is watch trader lingo for 'worn out bracelet'. Ha!
- 14/10/19
- 2,692
- 12,040
- 113
Does anyone know if the Athaya tube will work with a gen 600 crown? Or only the Athaya crown itself?
- 16/10/23
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- 16/10/23
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I think it'll work with genuine as well. Haven't tested tho
- 14/10/19
- 2,692
- 12,040
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Just like everyone here, Datejust 36 builds are so addictive. Good luck pursuing your builds!
AquaProd
Building watches I can't wear at work
- 30/9/24
- 17
- 11
- 3
Just finished my first franken build! It was kinda tedious since I think I used the wrong type of stem in the VS3135 and had to reset the sliding pinion. I also didn't buy a bracelet from Ken at Raffles and I used an old AliX bracelet which doesn't fit great; I also don't know if the rotor is working since I can't really tell if it is spinning or not. Does anyone know a seller on AliX or eBay that sells the same bracelet (or at least with the same fit) as raffles or should I just buy his? Any pointers for a better sapphire crystal that can also fit an engine turned bezel?
Parts:
- Gen Dial from eBay
- Hands from CousinsUK (H52669)
- VS3135 from AliX
- Case from Raffles (told him I was using a 3135 and he fitted the correct crystal)
- Gasket to fit 3135 into 2824 case also from Raffles (asked Ken and he provided)
- Bad 5 EUR bracelet from AliX
Clarks’s sapphire for 25-295C spec is the best aftermarket sapphire for this gen datejust. That will fit gen bezels, but make sure you get a genuine bezel for 16200 cases since the older ones are meant for plexi crystals.
You will know if your rotor doesn’t have enough clearance if the watch stops ticking after a while even though it was wound properly and you’re wearing it.
You will know if your rotor doesn’t have enough clearance if the watch stops ticking after a while even though it was wound properly and you’re wearing it.
As for bracelet, people generally go for Raffles, which is said to be just as tinny and rattly as the genuine after many decades of wear, or the ‘Italian’ style (look it up on the forums) or genuine. I have the raffles version and after giving it a baby oil bath it’s very comfortable and doesn’t give me a reason to change it at the expensive of many hundreds of euros.
AquaProd
Building watches I can't wear at work
- 30/9/24
- 17
- 11
- 3
Ok thank you for the answers. I'll buy the Raffles bracelet, I don't want to spend hundreds on an Italian bracelet right now. As for the Clarks's crystal, does it fit with the stock raffles bezel? I've read that it might need sanding on the inside; I'll upgrade to a geniune bezel later on since I have bigger projects going on