The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[Action_Jensen]

Honestly, I am not able to see the diff on pics between a Raffles dial or a Yuki/VN.
Knowing that anyway, we are aging them, I prefer to have fun with Raffles/Cartel.
I would be stressed to manipulate a 100+ dial. Maybe I will get there later in my endeavours.

ok. I have stored the dial and hands to let them dry. I don't have good enough light to take pics. Later this week.

what do you guys have inbound?
I have this 1016,
and awaiting delivery of a 5513 that I am making for practice
plus also a Omega Constellation Pan Pie vintage, to mix up things a bit. The case is 38mm so far from the 34mm gen but close enough to the Jumbo (37mm)

Because you asked
I cracked the crystal with my last bezel experiments, you can see at the 1 minute and 9 minute hashmarks. That beeing said im still on the search for the perfect bezel. I think about getting some customs made but have to see how much they are. Till then i use the moded WSO one that has a slight curve to it duo to some wobling of the lathe unfortunately.
Also id like to lighten up the lubme of the hands a little it, maybe i am trying the water colour pencil method,
After that some more case ageing and this build should be fine..
As mentioned here already i have the same thought as @316lad and @dpd3672 to go for some gen parts and make a 5500 Explorer.

Build:
-Raffles case (heavy shaping)
-SK T21 crystal
-WSO Bezel widened and lathed for the champfer on the underside
-gen (Athaya) crown and Stem
-2mm Springbars
-regulated NH38
-Ruby dial
-ebay hands

 

[Karbon74]

Because you asked
I cracked the crystal with my last bezel experiments, you can see at the 1 minute and 9 minute hashmarks. That beeing said im still on the search for the perfect bezel. I think about getting some customs made but have to see how much they are. Till then i use the moded WSO one that has a slight curve to it duo to some wobling of the lathe unfortunately.
Also id like to lighten up the lubme of the hands a little it, maybe i am trying the water colour pencil method,
After that some more case ageing and this build should be fine..
As mentioned here already i have the same thought as @316lad and @dpd3672 to go for some gen parts and make a 5500 Explorer.

Build:
-Raffles case (heavy shaping)
-SK T21 crystal
-WSO Bezel widened and lathed for the champfer on the underside
-gen (Athaya) crown and Stem
-2mm Springbars
-regulated NH38
-Ruby dial
-ebay hands

nice
@1016 lover makes a very nice bezel that fit the T21 really good

 

[Action_Jensen]

nice
@1016 lover makes a very nice bezel that fit the T21 really good

yeah i have T21 and T22 bezels from him, they do not fit mine so good right now and i am currently waiting for a new dremel

 

[automatico]

"I am seriously researching the idea of grabbing a 34mm Air king and "Explorer-ising" it. Really fancy getting hold of an original movement (1520, 1570) and doing a service on it."

The 1002/1003 etc. cases are the same as an AK 5500 and they have a cal. 1560 or 1570. Sometimes you can run across one at a pretty good price but look out for badly corroded cases.
I stuck a couple 34mm 'explorers' together using 1002/1003 cases with Yuki dials and they turned out pretty good.

Here is one of them, a 1002 with a 1570 and Yuki dial:

https://rwg.cc/topic/201156-5513-casedial-or-5500-case-dial/#comment-1611388

 

[Fpicabia]

Yeah, I've seen fairly nice Air King 5500 selling for well under $2k, and rough ones for about $1500 or a bit less. I think what I might wind up doing (eventually) is buying one, using the movement for the Explorer, then selling the case, bracelet, dial, and hands. With any luck, it might actually be a wash. A 1520 and 1570 are the same movement, with some parts swapping (per here), so it's techinically not a terribly difficult task, and not a bad long-term project.

For now, though, I'm pretty sure I can modify a 2824 by drilling holes in the main plate to use the gen dial without cutting the feet. I'm trying to find a template to make a jig for the hole location (there was one on RWG but the link is dead), but might wind up creating one and 3D printing it. This thread is one that discusses the possibility.

Pretty much it would be a completely gen watch, other than the movement and hands, which I can live with...nice Explorer hands aren't too bad for the ETA movements. A vintage 1520 and a current (serviced) ETA are comparable in quality, accuracy, and longevity, so not much is gained (other than knowing it's all gen) with the Rolex movement.

For what it's worth, I've found these useful too

 

[316lad]

"I am seriously researching the idea of grabbing a 34mm Air king and "Explorer-ising" it. Really fancy getting hold of an original movement (1520, 1570) and doing a service on it."

The 1002/1003 etc. cases are the same as an AK 5500 and they have a cal. 1560 or 1570. Sometimes you can run across one at a pretty good price but look out for badly corroded cases.
I stuck a couple 34mm 'explorers' together using 1002/1003 cases with Yuki dials and they turned out pretty good.

Here is one of them, a 1002 with a 1570 and Yuki dial:

https://rwg.cc/topic/201156-5513-casedial-or-5500-case-dial/#comment-1611388

Fantastic.
Thank you for posting. I didn't realise that.
The 1570 intrigues me - that's the one I want to get hold of.

 

[316lad]

I don't know why - maybe because it's got a lovely smiley face;

 

[Singapore9]

Any love for the 5500 Explorers in here, with the 1520/30?

 

[dpd3672]

Any love for the 5500 Explorers in here, with the 1520/30?

Absolutely, you'll see more than a few of them in this thread.

 

[Singapore9]

Just came across them in the last few days... have 95 pages to catch up on!!

 

[316lad]

Just came across them in the last few days... have 95 pages to catch up on!!

You're lucky to have found us now as when we get to 100 pages we literally have loads of pages which will just be given over to celebrating that fact...

 

[Karbon74]

You're lucky to have found us now as when we get to 100 pages we literally have loads of pages which will just be given over to celebrating that fact...

ok I have my target now. I need to finish my 1016 and graduate before the 100 pages
please stop posting

 

[automatico]

"A vintage 1520 and a current (serviced) ETA are comparable in quality, accuracy, and longevity, so not much is gained (other than knowing it's all gen) with the Rolex movement."

I agree.
I have a few watches with ETA 28xx movements and they run about as well as any 15xx powered Rolex I have...and ETAs are a heck of a lot cheaper to buy and maintain.
If you drop or slam a watch with an ETA 28xx, it is usually good to go...or it might cost $35 for repairs.
If you drop or slam a watch with a Rolex movement...you might have to go to the bank.

 

[brahmabull]

Just came across them in the last few days... have 95 pages to catch up on!!

I know what you mean. I went through the same thing a couple of weeks ago. Still going through the thread. lol.
the short version is: need to add a 1016 to the collection in 2024.

one more post to 100 pages @Karbon74

 

[pullthat92]

Almost all aftermarket hour hand triangle is too thick. I guess I'll have to sand and polish it. I think a nail file would do for the sanding, but I'm not sure what to use for polishing.
I usually use Cape Cod for polishing, but it seems difficult to use on such small parts this.

 

[fan_pam]

Raffledials parts with genuine ETA2824-2 movement inside

 

[Karbon74]

I am a bit in a dilemna. I experimented to let the water color dilution bleed on the dial, and then I did successive wet and dry. It gives a water damaged look to the dial which I actually quite like.

I don't know if I like it because I am being sloppy, or if it is something that can actually work

note that I will do the mat varnish droplets on the dial, so the colors will fix.

I am still not getting the hang of that water color thingy. the paint does not hold when I run it under water, even after a day drying

 

[369mafia]

Almost all aftermarket hour hand triangle is too thick. I guess I'll have to sand and polish it. I think a nail file would do for the sanding, but I'm not sure what to use for polishing.
I usually use Cape Cod for polishing, but it seems difficult to use on such small parts this.

I think you are going to need some very small and fine files to shape the inside lume area of the point

 

[369mafia]

I am a bit in a dilemna. I experimented to let the water color dilution bleed on the dial, and then I did successive wet and dry. It gives a water damaged look to the dial which I actually quite like.

I don't know if I like it because I am being sloppy, or if it is something that can actually work

note that I will do the mat varnish droplets on the dial, so the colors will fix.

I am still not getting the hang of that water color thingy. the paint does not hold when I run it under water, even after a day drying

I mix my colour and the apply it to the dial using an movement oiler or pin. and then let dry. repeat as needed to achieve color desired

 

[Karbon74]

I mix my colour and the apply it to the dial using an movement oiler or pin. and then let dry. repeat as needed to achieve color desired

I think i am going to switch to this method. The paint with brush and wash does not seem to work for me. I am missing something here about it.