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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

Fpicabia

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I am still in two minds about doing the nails&stone treatment.

I decided to do a NOS look first so that I did not get lazy and sloppy, in order to fix the shape in my mind. I still feel there are a few symmetry issues, but mostly the lugs now "feel right" if you see what I mean
started the case work with the lug drilling
I snapped 3 bits 😱

seems that the Raffles steel is stronger than the JKF
Best drill
started the case work with the lug drilling
I snapped 3 bits 😱

seems that the Raffles steel is stronger than the JKF

started the case work with the lug drilling
I snapped 3 bits 😱

seems that the Raffles steel is stronger than the JKF
Best drill bits for stainless steel that I have found are made of cobalt. This has probably been covered here before but just in case...In my experience, cobalt drill bits cut light years better than any other drill bit I've used. No contest. I'd love to hear other's experiences. I've broken many drill bits in my time but I've never broken a cobalt bit drilling a watch case. With good lube, they cut like butter. My go to lubrication is BOELUBE, developed by Boeing for the aircraft industry. Pretty sure other lubes would work fine too. It's just what I prefer.

This thread is fantastic. This and the gilt dial thread, to name a few favorites. Amazing community freely sharing processes and progress. Good old R & D.
Thank you all
 

Karbon74

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I use carbide pcb bits. they cut fine normally. it's just that I was not focused enough 😅 and tried to do this in a hurry

i use good old WD40 as lubrication.

do you have a link for your cobalt bits? I never found good quality 1mm 1.2mm 1.3mm
 
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316lad

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Save your nice Tungsten Carbide bits for other things. To do the lugs just buy cheap - but in volume.
I bought these off The Bay - 2 sets and did the 4 lug holes out to 1.3mm with just one set. Move through the drill bit diameters sequentially - don't jump from 1.00mm to 1.2 -, etc.



Olive oil and milk is a great cutting oil if you don't want to buy the expensive real stuff. Mix it equal parts, shake it and atomize it in a spray bottle.
 

Karbon74

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actually, my carbide bits are cheap too 😁

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $2.50 13% Off | Free Shipping 10pcs 0.6mm-1.5mm Import Carbide PCB Drill Bits Print Circuit Board Mini CNC Drilling Bit Set

Xcan does superb precision tools

I bought a box of each...
but nice call out for my 1.1mm skip. I was just lazy 😅
i will buy a box
 
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Karbon74

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Best drill



Best drill bits for stainless steel that I have found are made of cobalt. This has probably been covered here before but just in case...In my experience, cobalt drill bits cut light years better than any other drill bit I've used. No contest. I'd love to hear other's experiences. I've broken many drill bits in my time but I've never broken a cobalt bit drilling a watch case. With good lube, they cut like butter. My go to lubrication is BOELUBE, developed by Boeing for the aircraft industry. Pretty sure other lubes would work fine too. It's just what I prefer.

This thread is fantastic. This and the gilt dial thread, to name a few favorites. Amazing community freely sharing processes and progress. Good old R & D.
Thank you all
also check out the 5513 tutorial thread! @Fpicabia
 
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316lad

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Yep, don't cheat on working up through the drill bits - One of them will bite you. All good progress by the sounds of things.

Got the T21 replacememnt today and did a "short" service on the moveemnt as I found the offending shard of acrylic right where I thought it would be - dropped through the Hands Hole and on to the Hour Wheel. Removed and tested on the bench for a few hours and now everything back in one piece and on the wrist!

Happy Weekend!

 

Fpicabia

Getting To Know The Place
21/1/17
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I use carbide pcb bits. they cut fine normally. it's just that I was not focused enough 😅 and tried to do this in a hurry

i use good old WD40 as lubrication.

do you have a link for your cobalt bits? I never found good quality 1mm 1.2mm 1.3mm
I don't have a link, sorry. I bought a handful of them a few years ago. Might've been McMaster-Carr in the US as I use them a lot in my design/fabrication business. I agree that starting small and stepping up with other types of bits can work just fine, I just really don't like removing broken stubs. I'd also heard that lard or bacon fat was used by machinists too, I suppose anything that eases the friction between the cutter and the material. In a pinch, I wonder if a dab of avocado might even do the trick. ;) I was just passing on my good experience with the boelube stuff. It comes in different viscosities depending on the application.
Thanks for the other thread suggestion!
 

Karbon74

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I don't have a link, sorry. I bought a handful of them a few years ago. Might've been McMaster-Carr in the US as I use them a lot in my design/fabrication business. I agree that starting small and stepping up with other types of bits can work just fine, I just really don't like removing broken stubs. I'd also heard that lard or bacon fat was used by machinists too, I suppose anything that eases the friction between the cutter and the material. In a pinch, I wonder if a dab of avocado might even do the trick. ;) I was just passing on my good experience with the boelube stuff. It comes in different viscosities depending on the application.
Thanks for the other thread suggestion!
Thread 'Building a 5513 - Tutorial'
https://forum.replica-watch.info/threads/building-a-5513-tutorial.10949961/
 
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Hayst

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For what it is worth I use 1.1 mm and then a 1.2 mm HSS drill bits from a german ebay supplier and they both go through like butter with not a hiccup.
For a cutting medium I am still using the tin of gorilla snot I purchased forty years ago.

I tried the carbide bits when I first tried the drilling lugs caper but found that they are too fragile.


 

dpd3672

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odd. you should have received some. however the clamps are usually too long and need modification ,
Yes, they're usually tucked away with the movement holder or inside the case or similar.

And they're always way too big, lol.

I guess it's better to have too much and trim them down than not enough.
 
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316lad

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a question guys.
I did not see movement clamps and screws in the raffles package. Is that normal?
I will "third" that. You should have got them. If memory serves they are in the same small package that has the movemnt spacer. Mine also needed filing down to about half their length.
 
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316lad

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Like others I had to file them down to about half their length - maybe slightly more. And, after playing with the cenering of the dial on the rehaut I put a small radius curve on them so they "Snugged" under the case lip better.

But aern't you doing a 2836 build? in which ase theings might be completetly different.
 
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Karbon74

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I bought a couple of seagull 2824 during 11.11 and the corresponding Raffles case 😅 with acrylic crystal

First time working on a 2824 today. I am being clumsy this week. Removing the dummy hands, I popped the cannon pinion with it... So I took the opportunity to clean the hands wheels, tighten the CP, oil the keyless works and put a 2 position jumper. also take out the date works

I did not study the 2824 enough and did not print the tech doc. So the small differences with the 2836 derailed me a bit. I think I left a piece of the date works at 9-10 o'clock?

tomorrow, I am going to go to an arts shop to buy water color crayons 😙
 
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Karbon74

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Yes, they're usually tucked away with the movement holder or inside the case or similar.

And they're always way too big, lol.

I guess it's better to have too much and trim them down than not enough.
I also bought a box of eta compatible clamps. So I was not very worried. Reading you guys, I will see if I don't have a stock perfect clamp in the box 😃 maybe I will be lucky