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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
Made a bit more progress finished the mid case and fitted a 1016L Bezel and crystal.
I had to widen the ID of the bezel which i was a bit anxious of doing, I foolishly polished it prior to test fitting so that was only adding to the anxiety. In the end it was really easy, I used a flexible Dremel attachment (less bulky than having the full tool in the vice so gave me more room to work) in a table vice with a small 300 grit flap wheel, I went for the flap wheel instead of a drum as I felt it might be a bit more forgiving. Holding the bezel against a single point on the wheel I then worked the bezel through my fingers using the same point on the wheel to remove the material. from the ID. To protect the polished finish i covered the bezel in masking tape this allowed me to add a single reference point which i could use to get an even revolution of the bezel on the tool
Its hard to see in the image but i removed approximately 0.4mm from the rehaut using a 600 grit paper on a flat surface, i left the bezel and crystal as is.
On the whole really pleased with the outcome, the bezel and crystal in particular, when viewing the case from side on (pic 4) o the 3 components come together I feel to create an attractive shape.
The crown does let it down, my drill press arrived after I had shaped the case so was reluctant to drill and re-tap potentially throwing away hours of work, I felt i have learnt a lot over the past 2 watches so I will probably make a 3rd version next and fit a genuine spec crown and tube.
Pics below
I had to widen the ID of the bezel which i was a bit anxious of doing, I foolishly polished it prior to test fitting so that was only adding to the anxiety. In the end it was really easy, I used a flexible Dremel attachment (less bulky than having the full tool in the vice so gave me more room to work) in a table vice with a small 300 grit flap wheel, I went for the flap wheel instead of a drum as I felt it might be a bit more forgiving. Holding the bezel against a single point on the wheel I then worked the bezel through my fingers using the same point on the wheel to remove the material. from the ID. To protect the polished finish i covered the bezel in masking tape this allowed me to add a single reference point which i could use to get an even revolution of the bezel on the tool
Its hard to see in the image but i removed approximately 0.4mm from the rehaut using a 600 grit paper on a flat surface, i left the bezel and crystal as is.
On the whole really pleased with the outcome, the bezel and crystal in particular, when viewing the case from side on (pic 4) o the 3 components come together I feel to create an attractive shape.
The crown does let it down, my drill press arrived after I had shaped the case so was reluctant to drill and re-tap potentially throwing away hours of work, I felt i have learnt a lot over the past 2 watches so I will probably make a 3rd version next and fit a genuine spec crown and tube.
Pics below
- 4/10/22
- 490
- 823
- 93
Very nice workMade a bit more progress finished the mid case and fitted a 1016L Bezel and crystal.
I had to widen the ID of the bezel which i was a bit anxious of doing, I foolishly polished it prior to test fitting so that was only adding to the anxiety. In the end it was really easy, I used a flexible Dremel attachment (less bulky than having the full tool in the vice so gave me more room to work) in a table vice with a small 300 grit flap wheel, I went for the flap wheel instead of a drum as I felt it might be a bit more forgiving. Holding the bezel against a single point on the wheel I then worked the bezel through my fingers using the same point on the wheel to remove the material. from the ID. To protect the polished finish i covered the bezel in masking tape this allowed me to add a single reference point which i could use to get an even revolution of the bezel on the tool
Its hard to see in the image but i removed approximately 0.4mm from the rehaut using a 600 grit paper on a flat surface, i left the bezel and crystal as is.
On the whole really pleased with the outcome, the bezel and crystal in particular, when viewing the case from side on (pic 4) o the 3 components come together I feel to create an attractive shape.
The crown does let it down, my drill press arrived after I had shaped the case so was reluctant to drill and re-tap potentially throwing away hours of work, I felt i have learnt a lot over the past 2 watches so I will probably make a 3rd version next and fit a genuine spec crown and tube.
Pics below
You re right, the shape is looking good, congratulation, impatient to see everything in place
That side profile is glorious!Made a bit more progress finished the mid case and fitted a 1016L Bezel and crystal.
I had to widen the ID of the bezel which i was a bit anxious of doing, I foolishly polished it prior to test fitting so that was only adding to the anxiety. In the end it was really easy, I used a flexible Dremel attachment (less bulky than having the full tool in the vice so gave me more room to work) in a table vice with a small 300 grit flap wheel, I went for the flap wheel instead of a drum as I felt it might be a bit more forgiving. Holding the bezel against a single point on the wheel I then worked the bezel through my fingers using the same point on the wheel to remove the material. from the ID. To protect the polished finish i covered the bezel in masking tape this allowed me to add a single reference point which i could use to get an even revolution of the bezel on the tool
Its hard to see in the image but i removed approximately 0.4mm from the rehaut using a 600 grit paper on a flat surface, i left the bezel and crystal as is.
On the whole really pleased with the outcome, the bezel and crystal in particular, when viewing the case from side on (pic 4) o the 3 components come together I feel to create an attractive shape.
The crown does let it down, my drill press arrived after I had shaped the case so was reluctant to drill and re-tap potentially throwing away hours of work, I felt i have learnt a lot over the past 2 watches so I will probably make a 3rd version next and fit a genuine spec crown and tube.
Pics below
johnchpark
Active Member
Just want to quickly share my experience for future users.
Sternkreuz T21 says it's 30.6mm diameter on the package, but once installed on Raffles case, my calipers were reading 30.80mm.
I widened WSO bezel ID from 30.4mm to 30.70mm (according to my digital caliper).
It fit the T21 on the Raffles case, and is snug. Even without UV glue, it passed 0 ATM waterproof test (just dunk the case in a glass of water).
The SK T21 is very tight on the Raffles case - so much so that I cracked one trying to pop it back out. Probably would be secure even without a bezel.
SK T21 and Clark T21 sizing slightly different.
Sternkreuz T21 says it's 30.6mm diameter on the package, but once installed on Raffles case, my calipers were reading 30.80mm.
I widened WSO bezel ID from 30.4mm to 30.70mm (according to my digital caliper).
It fit the T21 on the Raffles case, and is snug. Even without UV glue, it passed 0 ATM waterproof test (just dunk the case in a glass of water).
The SK T21 is very tight on the Raffles case - so much so that I cracked one trying to pop it back out. Probably would be secure even without a bezel.
SK T21 and Clark T21 sizing slightly different.
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
Yeah that is also my expirience On the Raffles Saphire Case the SK variant sits pretty tight. Tighter than the Clarks in the inner and the outer diameter. I also broke an SK but if the bezel is tight i think you dont need glue (as it should be as far as i know
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
Hey Guys! slight problem here, first i thought my stem was too short now i ordered new ones. Turns out it is not the stems per se but the problem seems to be that the whole movement is not alligned with the thread. I am useing an NH38 in a raffles case for ETA so it shoud fit (at least according to raffles homepage)
now i found out, that there is probably .5-.7mm between the dial and the movement hoder, so the dial "floats" above the movement.
Any sollutions? should i just sand down the holder or is there a specific one you can recomment?
now i found out, that there is probably .5-.7mm between the dial and the movement hoder, so the dial "floats" above the movement.
Any sollutions? should i just sand down the holder or is there a specific one you can recomment?
Strange… I glued my dial (feet removed and the stubs sanded) directly to the holder (NH38) and the stem lines up perfectly. Sanding the holder will help, but first check your dial is flush against the rehaut (check that the whole assembly is properly pushed in and seated).Hey Guys! slight problem here, first i thought my stem was too short now i ordered new ones. Turns out it is not the stems per se but the problem seems to be that the whole movement is not alligned with the thread. I am useing an NH38 in a raffles case for ETA so it shoud fit (at least according to raffles homepage)
now i found out, that there is probably .5-.7mm between the dial and the movement hoder, so the dial "floats" above the movement.
Any sollutions? should i just sand down the holder or is there a specific one you can recomment?
freebalkany
Active Member
- 24/8/21
- 296
- 304
- 63
Wait a second, what is the purpose of the plastic ring for the NH38? for the other I can imagine that it allows the date to flip without rubbing against the dial. In other words, what stops you from sanding it down or removing it?Hey Guys! slight problem here, first i thought my stem was too short now i ordered new ones. Turns out it is not the stems per se but the problem seems to be that the whole movement is not alligned with the thread. I am useing an NH38 in a raffles case for ETA so it shoud fit (at least according to raffles homepage)
now i found out, that there is probably .5-.7mm between the dial and the movement hoder, so the dial "floats" above the movement.
Any sollutions? should i just sand down the holder or is there a specific one you can recomment?
Please keep in mind I have no experience with that movement. So that I could be wrong here.
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
The diameter of the movement, ETA or NH movement are smaller than the inner diameter of the case so this ring centers the movement.
After some testing i am pretty sure, that i got the wrong case. I probably got the one for the DG and 2436 Movements... well.. lets see what we can do now with all the work i put into it i refuse to start over
I dont think you got the wrong case as I had no issues fitting the 2824 . IT may be just another inconsistency in the acrylic crystal case sets ?The diameter of the movement, ETA or NH movement are smaller than the inner diameter of the case so this ring centers the movement.
After some testing i am pretty sure, that i got the wrong case. I probably got the one for the DG and 2436 Movements... well.. lets see what we can do now with all the work i put into it i refuse to start over
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
Hey, the case i got from you works perfectly fine. I got another one with a saphire that i did not test with a movement befor i startet all the mods. The one i got from you works perfectly fine with ETA and NH movements ;-)
Action_Jensen
Known Member
- 20/4/21
- 161
- 252
- 63
Yeah it yould also be a inconsistency, to be fair i also redrilled the tube to fit the athaya one. the mistake could also be there. sorry for d
ouble post, cant edit
- 21/3/16
- 417
- 70
- 28
Looks so nice! Your dial looks a lot better than mine and it is also a whoopy dial
project complete! ticking on low-beat ETA 2879, which is frankly a pain in the butt to fit and fix in the case properly, NH movement next time . I will deal with a bit of lume work when I have the time. for now, looks good to me.. what do you think..
. I will deal with a bit of lume work when I have the time. for now, looks good to me.. what do you think..