The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[1016 lover]

Yes, exactly, those hands are really good quality, i like the continuous curve on my last eta attemp, the hands i ve found are cut in the middle buy a straight line, you have visually 2 faces on the hand, here it's very well executed... I am hopping to find the same set for a 1570 caliber now

the only thing is sad is that you can't buy them directly from startime supply, you have to be watch maker and in their database

 

[freebalkany]

Thé case is from raffle too, i have to disassemble, i will take some pictures, i used a 0.5mm plastic shim arround the movement, but thé clamp systèm IS not well attached, i think to cut some material in thé case to have thé correct clamp sitting, thé dial is only sticked for thé moment, not a Big fan as this New dial design IS smaller than thé old one

I'm suprised the rotor can move freely. This is not the experience I had with my case.

 

[1016 lover]

I'm suprised the rotor can move freely. This is not the experience I had with my case.

I can't here the rotor moving, but it's 3 days that wear it without windding it, so i presume the automatic mechanism work

 

[369mafia]

I can't here the rotor moving, but it's 3 days that wear it without windding it, so i presume the automatic mechanism work

Nice work on the build and fitting that movement . it is a close fit. any alignment issues with the stem? did you use a dial spacer?

does the movement move around in the case when you wiggle the watch? I would assume that once the crown is screwed down it should hold it well.

 

[909090909]

Here’s a 6350 and a 1016 I built recently, both Raffles and PT5000. I didn’t do any case shaping or aging, but for the 6350 I did manage to sand down the Raffles caseback and reshape/polish it into a semi-bubbleback. Worked better than I expected. The bezel is inaccurate, as it’s just a Raffles plexi bezel removed from its crystal and enlarged. It has a GS T21.

I’m waiting on some gold vintage Raffles sub hands for the 1016, which has a chocolate tropical Raffles dial. The bezel is from @1016 lover and the crystal is a Clark T22 just to be a little different from the 6350.



Speaking of, is there anybody on the forum right now who could put the correct engravings inside the 6350 caseback?

 

[1016 lover]

Nice work on the build and fitting that movement . it is a close fit. any alignment issues with the stem? did you use a dial spacer?

does the movement move around in the case when you wiggle the watch? I would assume that once the crown is screwed down it should hold it well.T

Thanks,
Yes very tight fit, no dial spacer used, the stem height seem not too bad indeed, but as i stick the dial with dial dot, its possible that it help to move the caliber a little bit down, it had a thickness between the dial and the caliber.

To center the caliber correctly i ve found some plastic sheet of 0.5mm, i ve cut a very thin piece and wrap it arround the caliber once the caliber was installed in the case, i ve check if the caliber translate after this and it was ok.

I am not happy with the clamps, as i installed them and have no cut in the middle case to have a clamping force applied to the caliber, i will do some little cut to have a correct clamping status, will document this once i will receive the dial feet tool.

 

[1016 lover]

Here’s a 6350 and a 1016 I built recently, both Raffles and PT5000. I didn’t do any case shaping or aging, but for the 6350 I did manage to sand down the Raffles caseback and reshape/polish it into a semi-bubbleback. Worked better than I expected. The bezel is inaccurate, as it’s just a Raffles plexi bezel removed from its crystal and enlarged. It has a GS T21.

I’m waiting on some gold vintage Raffles sub hands for the 1016, which has a chocolate tropical Raffles dial. The bezel is from @1016 lover and the crystal is a Clark T22 just to be a little different from the 6350.



Speaking of, is there anybody on the forum right now who could put the correct engravings inside the 6350 caseback?

i think you can ask to him

@newest dude on the forum

 

[Winni1611]

: I never used dial feet but always glue the dial to the movement with hypocement. It has a good time to dry and allowes a little adjustment. And it can be loosened easyly if nedded.

 

[Iceballer]

Here’s a 6350 and a 1016 I built recently, both Raffles and PT5000. I didn’t do any case shaping or aging, but for the 6350 I did manage to sand down the Raffles caseback and reshape/polish it into a semi-bubbleback. Worked better than I expected. The bezel is inaccurate, as it’s just a Raffles plexi bezel removed from its crystal and enlarged. It has a GS T21.

I’m waiting on some gold vintage Raffles sub hands for the 1016, which has a chocolate tropical Raffles dial. The bezel is from @1016 lover and the crystal is a Clark T22 just to be a little different from the 6350.

------

Speaking of, is there anybody on the forum right now who could put the correct engravings inside the 6350 caseback?

Both are looking reallyyyy good!

How do you like the quality of the 6350 honeycomb dial? I'm getting that one in a week or so and can't wait to get started on it. I'll be using a NH35 or NH38 movement instead, but the rest will all be Raffles.

 

[Iceballer]

Here’s a 6350 and a 1016 I built recently, both Raffles and PT5000. I didn’t do any case shaping or aging, but for the 6350 I did manage to sand down the Raffles caseback and reshape/polish it into a semi-bubbleback. Worked better than I expected. The bezel is inaccurate, as it’s just a Raffles plexi bezel removed from its crystal and enlarged. It has a GS T21.

I’m waiting on some gold vintage Raffles sub hands for the 1016, which has a chocolate tropical Raffles dial. The bezel is from @1016 lover and the crystal is a Clark T22 just to be a little different from the 6350.

------

Speaking of, is there anybody on the forum right now who could put the correct engravings inside the 6350 caseback?

Both are looking reallyyyy good!

How do you like the quality of the 6350 honeycomb dial? I'm getting that one in a week or so and can't wait to get started on it. I'll be using a NH35 or NH38 movement instead, but the rest will all be Raffles.

 

[909090909]

Both are looking reallyyyy good!

How do you like the quality of the 6350 honeycomb dial? I'm getting that one in a week or so and can't wait to get started on it. I'll be using a NH35 or NH38 movement instead, but the rest will all be Raffles.

I think it's gorgeous! I don't know if it's a "real" guilloche dial, but the texture still looks great and the printing is crisp. The indices have a bit of relief and are a nice color.

 

[Winni1611]

Both are looking reallyyyy good!

How do you like the quality of the 6350 honeycomb dial? I'm getting that one in a week or so and can't wait to get started on it. I'll be using a NH35 or NH38 movement instead, but the rest will all be Raffles.

Hi used that honeycomb dial too and it looks great. The only Thing Was that I was afraid to age it.
For my builds I always use NH38. Only two positions there.

 

[909090909]

I figured I’d ask this here because somebody might know. I bought a Viet 7206 bracelet and the clasp doesn’t close very securely. Is there any way I can use tools to get the clasp to grip better without sending it back for a full return?

 

[1675lover]

I figured I’d ask this here because somebody might know. I bought a Viet 7206 bracelet and the clasp doesn’t close very securely. Is there any way I can use tools to get the clasp to grip better without sending it back for a full return?

 

[369mafia]

Both are looking reallyyyy good!

How do you like the quality of the 6350 honeycomb dial? I'm getting that one in a week or so and can't wait to get started on it. I'll be using a NH35 or NH38 movement instead, but the rest will all be Raffles.

They are very nice quality for the money. As someone who has owned a MQ viet 6350 dial compared to this one, the quailty is much better and the dial finish and lume is far more durable than the MQ dial. the viet dial was hundreds of dollars, where this one is 50 awesome bang for the buck.


I have aged one slightly , which is a requirement for a 70 year old ref. ITs difficult to want to age such a nice dial but otherwise it looks like a homage microbrand

 

[909090909]

For my builds I always use NH38. Only two positions there.

I've been getting pretty good at swapping out the date position and wheel on my PT5000s, but your approach is much easier

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

I figured I’d ask this here because somebody might know. I bought a Viet 7206 bracelet and the clasp doesn’t close very securely. Is there any way I can use tools to get the clasp to grip better without sending it back for a full return?

Just put some pressure on the blade to readjust the curvature, and you should get a firm closure :

 

[Iceballer]

I think it's gorgeous! I don't know if it's a "real" guilloche dial, but the texture still looks great and the printing is crisp. The indices have a bit of relief and are a nice color.

Thanks! Also @Winni1611 thanks for the information, I will go for the NH38. In a rush I ordered the NH35.. So will have to use that for another project.

@369mafia, oh my.. that gets me exciting! Thanks for the closeups. I have the 5513 currently, but I'm going to sell that because I find the dials "too flat" (just a taste preference).

May I ask how you aged the dial? I agree with you that it needs aging.. I've looked at photos from gens, and they are all heavily damaged and worn.

 

[909090909]

@1675lover and @1016_idiot_savant thanks, super easy!

 

[newest dude on the forum]

i think you can ask to him

@newest dude on the forum

Unfortunately I don't have a template for the inside of the caseback