Um, that’s not quite what I meant. But yep, we are a brotherhood made of diverse people.
I know I’ve posted it before, but I do love this one. It’s about 25 minutes and it’s well worth a watch. (excuse the pun!)
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
I know I’ve posted it before, but I do love this one. It’s about 25 minutes and it’s well worth a watch. (excuse the pun!)
Speaking of tweaking, I managed to strip the threads of the crown of my Railmaster 
So i need to change it, and I think I will take the opportunity to put an armored acrylic as per gen
So i need to change it, and I think I will take the opportunity to put an armored acrylic as per gen
Currently looking for a T22 crystal, (replacing my Ruby crystal which looks a bit too high to me) from my research they seem to be quite a difficult model to source
Have a short list below
Gleave & Co
Classic Watch Repair
Lobtime
Truedome
Ordered the Gleave & Co as it was significantly cheaper than the others, arrived promptly this morning (great service)
Pictures below in case they are of use to other members
Quite a sharp edge which to me feels more in line with a service crystal, not quite what I am looking for
Of the 3 remaining the Lobtime looks a bit too domed to me currently leaning towards the True dome as the price between that and the CWR one is not a million miles and the tue drome does seem more common so there are more pictures to evaluate it.
Any other recommendations welcome
Have a short list below
Gleave & Co
Classic Watch Repair
Lobtime
Truedome
Ordered the Gleave & Co as it was significantly cheaper than the others, arrived promptly this morning (great service)
Pictures below in case they are of use to other members
Quite a sharp edge which to me feels more in line with a service crystal, not quite what I am looking for
Of the 3 remaining the Lobtime looks a bit too domed to me currently leaning towards the True dome as the price between that and the CWR one is not a million miles and the tue drome does seem more common so there are more pictures to evaluate it.
Any other recommendations welcome
Currently looking for a T22 crystal, (replacing my Ruby crystal which looks a bit too high to me) from my research they seem to be quite a difficult model to source
Have a short list below
Gleave & Co
Classic Watch Repair
Lobtime
Truedome
Ordered the Gleave & Co as it was significantly cheaper than the others, arrived promptly this morning (great service)
Pictures below in case they are of use to other members
Quite a sharp edge which to me feels more in line with a service crystal, not quite what I am looking for
Of the 3 remaining the Lobtime looks a bit too domed to me currently leaning towards the True dome as the price between that and the CWR one is not a million miles and the tue drome does seem more common so there are more pictures to evaluate it.
Any other recommendations welcome
Sternkreuz is my go to
Sold on CousinsUK
- 4/10/22
- 490
- 823
- 93
Currently looking for a T22 crystal, (replacing my Ruby crystal which looks a bit too high to me) from my research they seem to be quite a difficult model to source
Have a short list below
Gleave & Co
Classic Watch Repair
Lobtime
Truedome
Ordered the Gleave & Co as it was significantly cheaper than the others, arrived promptly this morning (great service)
Pictures below in case they are of use to other members
Quite a sharp edge which to me feels more in line with a service crystal, not quite what I am looking for
Of the 3 remaining the Lobtime looks a bit too domed to me currently leaning towards the True dome as the price between that and the CWR one is not a million miles and the tue drome does seem more common so there are more pictures to evaluate it.
Any other recommendations welcom
I have some domed crystal that fit better than t21, but you need a another bezel, 'ot gen spec t22
Thanks gents, do Sternkreuz offer a t22? I’ve only ever seen t21’s from them
(I have a t19 Sternkreuz on a 5513 and really rate it)
Re bezel I may have misunderstood but are you saying a gen spec t22 won’t fit the Ruby bezel?
(I have a t19 Sternkreuz on a 5513 and really rate it)
Re bezel I may have misunderstood but are you saying a gen spec t22 won’t fit the Ruby bezel?
- 4/10/22
- 490
- 823
- 93
I have some nos stock crystal from verlux that match better the old t22 look but they are not t22 spec, they are t21 specs, the outer diameter IS a little bit less and fit perfectly with m'y t21 bezels
Thanks for explaining, I purchased a bezel (t21 IIRC)and crystal off you last year which both worked out great, for this particular build I was planning on staying with the Ruby bezel
- 4/10/22
- 490
- 823
- 93
Ha ok, to i Can advise you to go gleave and co yellow brand,their t22 yellow IS domed
That’s fantastic I didn’t realise they offered 2 versions
Slight issue I have currently is I can’t remove the bezel, my cheapy removal tool isn’t up to the task, I sharpened the teeth with wet stones but still no luck, found a clone of the horotec tool on Ali express which I think may give a better result
Slight issue I have currently is I can’t remove the bezel, my cheapy removal tool isn’t up to the task, I sharpened the teeth with wet stones but still no luck, found a clone of the horotec tool on Ali express which I think may give a better result
Slight issue I have currently is I can’t remove the bezel, my cheapy removal tool isn’t up to the task
found a clone of the horotec tool on Ali express which I think may give a better result
Bezel removers are good tools but they can also cause a lot of damage to the case or bezel (especially solid gold bezels/cases). It is hard to see between the blades on four blade models and if the blade is off center just a hair, it can make a gash in the bezel or case. Two blade models are Ok too but I do not use either one. I learned 'the trade' from three pro watch mechanics over the years and they all used blades, including the fellow who worked in a Rlx AD for 25+ years.
He had a bezel remover tool on a bench in the shop but I never saw him use it, although he might have used it on submariner/GMT bezels.
Never saw him use a sledge hammer either, although he had one propped up in the corner. Ha!
I start with a new single edge razor blade, making sure the edge of the blade is precisely centered between the bezel and case. As soon as there is a space, move the blade a little bit and pry again a little at a time until there is a space all the way around. Next, go to a thicker blade (utility knife type blade usually) with the sharp edge polished so it will not make ridges on the case or bezel. and go from there. If the utility blade is too wide for the job, you can break it (carefully!) using two pliers. Single edge razor blades can be broken the same way but you need to cut through the shield at the dull side with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool etc. first.
Blades can break off between the case/bezel and when this happens, leave the chip, move to another spot, and start over.
Be careful not to allow the blade to cut into the crystal skirt (acrylic models) or crystal gasket (sapphire models). If you jack the crystal up and scratch the case neck, it may cause a leak.
Raising the outer edge of the blade toward the front side of the watch when prying helps prevent cutting the crystal/gasket.
Catch 22...it can also make a dent on a solid gold bezel if there is a lot of resistance.
I made a contraption that will hold a single edge razor blade or utility blade out of an old crystal press and it has a flat spot with a rubber pad for the case when starting blades. It makes the chore of starting blades between cases/bezels much easier and eliminates tapping the blade to get it started.
If you need to tap a blade to get it started, be careful not to hit it hard enough to break the balance staff or knock the hands out of correspondence (or off).
Remove the movement to prevent damage if the blade needs 'energetic' tapping.
I have a 'beater' DJ rep with a 14K gold bezel and some Gomer (not me this time) cut into the bezel with a blade trying to pry the bezel off. I bought the bezel for scrap because of the gash a few years back and hid it behind the crown. It looks fine...to me.
Typos are free.
Gold bezels are $$$.
Gold bezels with gashes are $crap.
found a clone of the horotec tool on Ali express which I think may give a better result
Bezel removers are good tools but they can also cause a lot of damage to the case or bezel (especially solid gold bezels/cases). It is hard to see between the blades on four blade models and if the blade is off center just a hair, it can make a gash in the bezel or case. Two blade models are Ok too but I do not use either one. I learned 'the trade' from three pro watch mechanics over the years and they all used blades, including the fellow who worked in a Rlx AD for 25+ years.
He had a bezel remover tool on a bench in the shop but I never saw him use it, although he might have used it on submariner/GMT bezels.
Never saw him use a sledge hammer either, although he had one propped up in the corner. Ha!
I start with a new single edge razor blade, making sure the edge of the blade is precisely centered between the bezel and case. As soon as there is a space, move the blade a little bit and pry again a little at a time until there is a space all the way around. Next, go to a thicker blade (utility knife type blade usually) with the sharp edge polished so it will not make ridges on the case or bezel. and go from there. If the utility blade is too wide for the job, you can break it (carefully!) using two pliers. Single edge razor blades can be broken the same way but you need to cut through the shield at the dull side with a cut-off wheel in a Dremel tool etc. first.
Blades can break off between the case/bezel and when this happens, leave the chip, move to another spot, and start over.
Be careful not to allow the blade to cut into the crystal skirt (acrylic models) or crystal gasket (sapphire models). If you jack the crystal up and scratch the case neck, it may cause a leak.
Raising the outer edge of the blade toward the front side of the watch when prying helps prevent cutting the crystal/gasket.
Catch 22...it can also make a dent on a solid gold bezel if there is a lot of resistance.
I made a contraption that will hold a single edge razor blade or utility blade out of an old crystal press and it has a flat spot with a rubber pad for the case when starting blades. It makes the chore of starting blades between cases/bezels much easier and eliminates tapping the blade to get it started.
If you need to tap a blade to get it started, be careful not to hit it hard enough to break the balance staff or knock the hands out of correspondence (or off).
Remove the movement to prevent damage if the blade needs 'energetic' tapping.
I have a 'beater' DJ rep with a 14K gold bezel and some Gomer (not me this time) cut into the bezel with a blade trying to pry the bezel off. I bought the bezel for scrap because of the gash a few years back and hid it behind the crown. It looks fine...to me.
Typos are free.
Gold bezels are $$$.
Gold bezels with gashes are $crap.
I know many have built 1016 Frankens using 16XX and 16XXX cases, but has anyone ever used the earlier 6605 Datejust cases?
I came across one and I'm torn between building it up as a 6605 (which would be difficult, since dials and hands are more scarce) or a 1016 (since there's a huge aftermarket for parts), since both were introduced around the same time, so presumably the cases will be more similar.
I'll have it in my hands in a couple days and will post photos. Next build will be a Yuki dial and hands, 1016L bezel, with a gen case, crown, and bracelet, using either a 6605, 16XX or 16XXX case.
I came across one and I'm torn between building it up as a 6605 (which would be difficult, since dials and hands are more scarce) or a 1016 (since there's a huge aftermarket for parts), since both were introduced around the same time, so presumably the cases will be more similar.
I'll have it in my hands in a couple days and will post photos. Next build will be a Yuki dial and hands, 1016L bezel, with a gen case, crown, and bracelet, using either a 6605, 16XX or 16XXX case.
The issue you will have with a 6605 case is the dial size is about 29mm. Regular gen spec 1016 dial will be too small for the case. I still think the best option for a 1016 build is a reworked 162xx rep case. Drill the lugs to accept fat spring bars, reshape case appropriately then get a bezel to fit t22 and you are good to go.
Nice shot - Brothers - observe how the 1016 case shines with it's own light - appearing to emanate from within - whilst the other cases look dull by comparisson.The issue you will have with a 6605 case is the dial size is about 29mm. Regular gen spec 1016 dial will be too small for the case. I still think the best option for a 1016 build is a reworked 162xx rep case. Drill the lugs to accept fat spring bars, reshape case appropriately then get a bezel to fit t22 and you are good to go.
That's why we're here.
