It’s raffle dial ? The yellow lume? Did you aged a little bit or not?
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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
- Thread starter ebzen02
- Start date
YEs it is. Raffles dial, hands and case. I weathered the dial surface to give it a sun faded dusty look and then aged the lume on the dial and hands with air brush paints to the desired tone.
How ? Thanks for the info
That's a trade secret....lol
using weathering paints of course.
I used a drill and a sanding bit to widen the inner diameter of the bezel.
u need to go back and forth until u get a good fit. If my memory serves me well, I had luck with widening it to about 30.6~30.8mm between 3 different builds
there are different techniques to age the dial - repaint the lume, relume the dial etc. doubt anyone will just share their techniques
u will need bigger tools for the lugs, I don’t so I just left mine as is. Build it, enjoy it
u need to go back and forth until u get a good fit. If my memory serves me well, I had luck with widening it to about 30.6~30.8mm between 3 different builds
there are different techniques to age the dial - repaint the lume, relume the dial etc. doubt anyone will just share their techniques
u will need bigger tools for the lugs, I don’t so I just left mine as is. Build it, enjoy it
The 1016 uses a tropic 22 crystal but the aftermarket and even Rolex service crystals have a slightly different dome than the true original ones that came on the watch in the 60s.
some of us use a t21 instead to get that dome feel.
both crystals have different dimensions so the bezel inner diameter is different
u can alternatively get a bezel from 1016L, he is located in the EU I think so it should be fairly simple for u
he has a workshop that makes bezels that fit either a t21 or t22
some of us use a t21 instead to get that dome feel.
both crystals have different dimensions so the bezel inner diameter is different
u can alternatively get a bezel from 1016L, he is located in the EU I think so it should be fairly simple for u
he has a workshop that makes bezels that fit either a t21 or t22
I know a lot of random shit, but I don't know lathe motors. If your screw is working lose, can I recommend you tighten it as much as you want when it's literally ice cold? That seems intuitive, but I bet it really won't work; however, a mini butane torch in the right spots with tightening might actually lock it in place where you want it.
There's nothing like a like a screw that's constantly dealing with vibrations while also expanding and contracting with every use.
Just a thought. Not sure if I'm talking about the type of pulley you need for a lathe, but many solutions carry over.
Also, I agree with your load comment. Similar motors were used for woodworking tools, grinders, polishers, etc. and I've never actually seen one die in person. I've heard rumors about excessive loads my entire life though.
They probably are likely worth more in copper windings than as a motor, but they sure as shit are bulletproof.
Had some hands, bracelets and movements in the parts box, so I put together a quick Raffles Explorer dial build: aged bezel (pyrolysis) and insert, aged case and crown and drilled for 2mm springbars, oxidised hands (vinegar and salt “sauna”) and aged lume (watercolor), NH movement.
Last edited:
johnchpark
Active Member
Has anyone figured out how to match the hands to the dial on Raffle’s white lume parts?
I want a NOS look, so just white lume without aging.
But my previous experience was Raffle’s dial lume (the white ones) get a strong green tint when activated (sunlight or light). But his hands don’t lume well, so they will be stark white while the dial lume is green.
I want a NOS look, so just white lume without aging.
But my previous experience was Raffle’s dial lume (the white ones) get a strong green tint when activated (sunlight or light). But his hands don’t lume well, so they will be stark white while the dial lume is green.
johnchpark
Active Member
That's a trade secret....lol
using weathering paints of course.
Is the B palette the most used? Thinking of picking up a set but quite a big color range between the sets.
Thanks
- 4/10/22
- 490
- 823
- 93
Live with this build for few days now and really liké this handset, minute Gand IS not perfect but i liké thé hour hand size
the white is what I use for the sun fade effect. I own 3 sets A B and C I find that A and B are the most common I use from aging the dial to the lume in various colors or tone. I also use water based air brush candy paint to age the lume on dials. however some lume plots on raffles dials dont respond well to the paint so that is when I use the weathering paints.
I haven't seen that one. Very interesting; great find! Their prices are crazy though, even for a matte dial 1016 in average condition.
But it prompts the question: how badly do you have to abuse your 1016 that Rolex decides to replace the entire case? Like deeply scratch it regularly and have it polished regularly until there are almost no lugs left? How does this level of abuse not affect the hands, dial, and especially the movement?
This watch was definitely owned by someone who wore it hard as a daily for decades. No doubt.
johnchpark
Active Member
White text w/ white lume
Just ordered one of Raffle's new dial and some tamiya weathering paint.
Will give this another go around.
Thanks for the tips
"Very interesting; great find! Their prices are crazy though, even for a matte dial 1016 in average condition."
My '1016' dial etc. short story...
I know what you mean about 1016 watches/dials.
An average oem 1016 dial alone will cost more today than a complete 1016 watch sold for new.
A complete 1016 watch today goes for about half of what a small house sold for in the 1970s.
Where are the Time Bandits when you need 'em?
I bought a 1016 dial new from an AD in April 1996 and it was $180 plus tax. It was a hassle for the dealer to get the dial from Rlx-USA-NYC so the dealer marked it up about 100 percent. The 100% mark-up bothered me back then, but not too much now Ha!
I bought another nos 1016 dial for $80.00 in November 2012. Better deal. Both trits.
Nowdays, a ratty used oem dial is $500 to $2000 and nos is $3 to $4K. Good thing I held on to mine.
Latched on to a nos 'tritilume' signed T 25 dial later to be used on a project but never got around to it.
Good used T-25 tritilume dials are great for projects but do not go up for sale often.
I planned to put a 1570 hack in a 'like new' (no kiddin') 162xx case with the lug holes drilled out with the 'tritilume' dial, T22 crystal, and a bezel machined to fit to make a pretty good '1016' F-stein. Never got around to that either.
I had already stuck one together in 1997 with an average 162xx case and 1570. Wore it a few times and put the movement in something else.
Gave up on the next '1016' project using an oem dial, 1570, and 162xx case because the parts were probably worth more than the complete project watch.
So...where is that '1016' project case from 1997 now?
I wear it quite often with an aftmkt dial and swisseta 2824/2846 'combo' movement and aftmkt hollow midlink oyster type bracelet.
For anyone needing a slower beat 2824 to fit into a case made for a 2824 and a 2836/46 will not fit...my Rlx stickie on RWGcc Rlx section tells the story.
"But it prompts the question: how badly do you have to abuse your 1016 that Rolex decides to replace the entire case? Like deeply scratch it regularly and have it polished regularly until there are almost no lugs left? How does this level of abuse not affect the hands, dial, and especially the movement?"
I've been trading/working on watches for a long time and have seen some Rlx (and other brands) cases/dials/movements in very bad condition.
Cases seem suffer the most, usually from getting knocked around, case corrosion, and AI (assorted idiots).
Movements are next, usually from water leaks, botched repairs, and AI.
Dials/hands come in last, but moisture/sun/clumsy AI repairs can take a major toll on them.
Official RWC Fix-It Outfits will make a 'new' watch out of a junker, but they will not show any mercy. Just the opposite.
Example below, close the gaps...
https://www. rolexforums.com/ showthread.php?t= 963077
Typos aretree free.
My '1016' dial etc. short story...
I know what you mean about 1016 watches/dials.
An average oem 1016 dial alone will cost more today than a complete 1016 watch sold for new.
A complete 1016 watch today goes for about half of what a small house sold for in the 1970s.
Where are the Time Bandits when you need 'em?
I bought a 1016 dial new from an AD in April 1996 and it was $180 plus tax. It was a hassle for the dealer to get the dial from Rlx-USA-NYC so the dealer marked it up about 100 percent. The 100% mark-up bothered me back then, but not too much now Ha!
I bought another nos 1016 dial for $80.00 in November 2012. Better deal. Both trits.
Nowdays, a ratty used oem dial is $500 to $2000 and nos is $3 to $4K. Good thing I held on to mine.
Latched on to a nos 'tritilume' signed T 25 dial later to be used on a project but never got around to it.
Good used T-25 tritilume dials are great for projects but do not go up for sale often.
I planned to put a 1570 hack in a 'like new' (no kiddin') 162xx case with the lug holes drilled out with the 'tritilume' dial, T22 crystal, and a bezel machined to fit to make a pretty good '1016' F-stein. Never got around to that either.
I had already stuck one together in 1997 with an average 162xx case and 1570. Wore it a few times and put the movement in something else.
Gave up on the next '1016' project using an oem dial, 1570, and 162xx case because the parts were probably worth more than the complete project watch.
So...where is that '1016' project case from 1997 now?
I wear it quite often with an aftmkt dial and swisseta 2824/2846 'combo' movement and aftmkt hollow midlink oyster type bracelet.
For anyone needing a slower beat 2824 to fit into a case made for a 2824 and a 2836/46 will not fit...my Rlx stickie on RWGcc Rlx section tells the story.
"But it prompts the question: how badly do you have to abuse your 1016 that Rolex decides to replace the entire case? Like deeply scratch it regularly and have it polished regularly until there are almost no lugs left? How does this level of abuse not affect the hands, dial, and especially the movement?"
I've been trading/working on watches for a long time and have seen some Rlx (and other brands) cases/dials/movements in very bad condition.
Cases seem suffer the most, usually from getting knocked around, case corrosion, and AI (assorted idiots).
Movements are next, usually from water leaks, botched repairs, and AI.
Dials/hands come in last, but moisture/sun/clumsy AI repairs can take a major toll on them.
Official RWC Fix-It Outfits will make a 'new' watch out of a junker, but they will not show any mercy. Just the opposite.
Example below, close the gaps...
https://www. rolexforums.com/ showthread.php?t= 963077
Typos are
Just incredible! Not only your stories of buying parts for basically pennies on the dollar today, but also that Explorer II:
- Service case
- Service bezel
- Service hands
- Service dial
- Service/newer bracelet
Maybe the crown, caseback, and movement are original?
This is nearly the equivalent of Theseus' ship in the vintage watch world!
But good to know that I could find an absolutely trash condition watch, and as long as the movement is in passably good condition the RSC will literally replace everything else, rebuilding a brand new watch.
- Service case
- Service bezel
- Service hands
- Service dial
- Service/newer bracelet
Maybe the crown, caseback, and movement are original?
This is nearly the equivalent of Theseus' ship in the vintage watch world!
But good to know that I could find an absolutely trash condition watch, and as long as the movement is in passably good condition the RSC will literally replace everything else, rebuilding a brand new watch.
- 4/10/22
- 490
- 823
- 93
Hey, i have a question for you, do you know if Rolex Always used 904l for cases, that s a thing i cant find, if they use 316l first and move to 904 or if they Always use their own 904 SS
I know that 316 IS really more scratch résistant and 904 better for shiny but pour for surface hardness
If you know?
Rolex originally used 316 steel, the switch to 904 was in the 1980s.
What I love about the Emco Unimat - apart from the precision - is the fact that you don't have to shell out for expensive accessories - you can can just make them . . . )this was made out of a cheap Maths Compass/ protractor - which I've owned all my life . . .
Here, an Rotary Indexer - to plot out the Indices of a dial I'm working on . . .
Here, an Rotary Indexer - to plot out the Indices of a dial I'm working on . . .