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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

Erect

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or u can find out what lacquer rolex used back it in the day and pray it will patina itself 20 years later :ROFLMAO:
According to what I've read, Rolex used nitrocellulose lacquer - which is also what I use. Do you want to wait 20 years though? I don’t think my tropical desire can be held at bay for so long.
 
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1016 lover

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WatchN3RD

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Need to get more details in... sharper lines. Messing around with line thickness now.
If anyone has experience with configuring and debugging laser engravers for optimal precision, let me know.

Close: https://imgur.com/a/E1F2wAD
Man, I really can't keep up with the awesomeness in this little 1016 sub-forum. That's pretty detailed for a testing stage! It already looks pretty good!

Wish I could help with whatever you are figuring out too. I know nothing. But... are you looking for tips on the actual burning/engraving or is it more software issues? Just curious in case I come across anything relevant.
 
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Erect

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Man, I really can't keep up with the awesomeness in this little 1016 sub-forum. That's pretty detailed for a testing stage! It already looks pretty good!

Wish I could help with whatever you are figuring out too. I know nothing. But... are you looking for tips on the actual burning/engraving or is it more software issues? Just curious in case I come across anything relevant.
Well… The vector I used is made by a pro I hired on Upwork, really good work. Bless the man and his willingness to cope with my severe OCD. Took a few iterations and meetings to get everything right. We used about 8 real 6610 dial references, of whom two naked dials (without crystal on top) to get placement etc the closest to genuine.
Its safe to say the vector comes as close to genuine as possible, but the laser, as you can see, is a bit sloppy.

We need to try different settings, power, speed… see if that works. My first thought was that converting .ai file to .svg applies some sort of anti-aliasing, or details go missing. On screen the .svg looks perfect, but maybe using a .TIF exported at 1200 ppi for example is better.

So I tried the .tiff, the result is better, but it engraves it like a bitmap image (including the white background) even when adding a transparent layer to the .tiff, it does not work. So I scrap the .tiff idea and conclude it must be a vector.

What was noticeable though, is that when using .tiff the laser uses less power. So messing around with power and speed to find a sweet spot.

How this issue was previously remedied, is by adjusting the vector, making it thinner there where it bleeds/overflows to get crisper and less bold lines. But I’d like to achieve a close to 1:1 result similar to the vector used.

Im thinking it will be a combination of both adjusting the power and speed, as well as thinning the lines in the vector a bit.

Just to be clear, PPI cant be set in the laser machine. It uses line width. But my initial thought was that when feeding it a file (.TIF) with higher PPI, it would make use of these details.

Anyway, it will be more messing about but eventually the result should be good.
 
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WatchN3RD

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So I did a thing this afternoon. Got a package in from Raffles. Built the first of two. Technically not a 1016 I think, but forgive me. Built with a NH38a. Not sure if I dig the strap yet.


Looks good, man. Are those actually Seiko hands? You got a closeup?
 

Singapore9

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Fascinating about all the vector work in this thread. I have some pretty bad GEN dials that need refinishing and this thread has given huge insight - thank you!
 
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Erect

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Fascinating about all the vector work in this thread. I have some pretty bad GEN dials that need refinishing and this thread has given huge insight - thank you!
Shameless plug, feel free to look at my 6610 thread which goes into more vector detail for a 6610 dial, in case you're interested:
Link
 
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Action_Jensen

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Happy May Long weekend to my fellow Canadians (or anyone else that isnt going to work on Monday ) lol

I wanna build another Albino..
For you too, my friend :) Here in germany also free on pentecost monday. Just broght tools and supplies for far to much money and try my hand on an ali case. cant get over the nice curves on 1016Ls Build :)
 
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369mafia

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For you too, my friend :) Here in germany also free on pentecost monday. Just broght tools and supplies for far to much money and try my hand on an ali case. cant get over the nice curves on 1016Ls Build :)
sweet. please post progress . Is this to replace your existing case or are you building another one?
 
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Action_Jensen

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sweet. please post progress . Is this to replace your existing case or are you building another one?
I think i am the type that is on the hunt for the one "perfect one" the plan is to make a new case + custom bezzel + crystal and implement the innards in that case.. i also like new hands...
Ill probably make a second one with the old case and raffles tropic dial and offer it here for sale. not 100% sure though
 
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Erect

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I think i am the type that is on the hunt for the one "perfect one" the plan is to make a new case + custom bezzel + crystal and implement the innards in that case.. i also like new hands...
Ill probably make a second one with the old case and raffles tropic dial and offer it here for sale. not 100% sure though
Which hands!?

HR 6358 (thin)
Rafflestime 6200 minute hand
Clark hour hand
Rafflesdial longer Mercedes
?
 

Action_Jensen

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Which hands!?

HR 6358 (thin)
Rafflestime 6200 minute hand
Clark hour hand
Rafflesdial longer Mercedes
?
I am actually not dure at this point, Yeah id like to take the rafflestime 6200 minute hand, there was also a good hour in another set.
Also thought about tudor sub hands...
thing is i use a NH38 for my build so ETA hands, especially the second not an option... i heared there are seconds hands to shorten but right now i am not deep enough into the topic. any help is apreciated ;-)
 
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Erect

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I am actually not dure at this point, Yeah id like to take the rafflestime 6200 minute hand, there was also a good hour in another set.
Also thought about tudor sub hands...
thing is i use a NH38 for my build so ETA hands, especially the second not an option... i heared there are seconds hands to shorten but right now i am not deep enough into the topic. any help is apreciated ;-)
I think Clark is the only correct hour hand?
I’m not sure either. The dilemma has been keeping me up at night.
 
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WatchN3RD

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Which hands!?

HR 6358 (thin)
Rafflestime 6200 minute hand
Clark hour hand
Rafflesdial longer Mercedes
?
I assume these watches need the same vintage style that is the 6542 and older 1675. As a GMT whore, I'm always looking for them!
My biggest concern is that the options I've found are expensive, or the "stock" photos used don't always show what's going to arrive. Especially, the minute hands! The lume spacing is usually thin, whereas the old ones have a lume space that is wider than the outer metal portion.
They almost resemble submariner 126610 minute hands that with the outside "skeleton" shaved off to make the hand less wide.
Enough ranting, but I actually just came across these on AliX for a 2824/2836. The minute hand is close, if not perfect, and it's 13mm. Might be worth a shot if you already have the hour and sweep hands figured out.


Finally, if you personally have a Raffles (Time or Hands) or Helenarou in this shape, what exact product is it? I don't trust the stock photos, but Helenarou has a picture of some very similar. Probably $25/set with $40 in shipping though.