Thank you very much.This is very nice.
I'd like a similar configuration on my vietnam build.
How did you managed to match the hands with dial lumes?
Cheers
Don't forget that "E" with the middle cross-member slightly raised.Hi guys. I was planning my next build using an MQ dial, but I really didn't like the several critical errors that don't match the reference... so I decided to produce a completely new dial to correct all these issues. These include a opened X, incorrect logo, incorrect minute indices, etc. (Ruby also shares these issues.) For this, I'm in contact with local craftsmen.
Currently, I'm collecting high-quality reference photos of Omega 2914 and 1016 and making a vector image for a 28mm 1016 Mark 2 dial.
Feedback is also welcome. It seems like it'll take some time.
Forgive me for asking - today I discovered the hard way that my shoulder less spring bars that I’d originally sourced for a 16570 build don’t actually seat fully in the Raffles case (as I watched it drop to the floor ). I’m curious what springbars you folks are using that allow the pivot to extend all the way through? I’d found an 11 year old thread over on RWG briefly discussing this but not much else on search. Thanks!
And I have just admitted nicking mine. I suddenly saw the sachet of sugar in yours and realised you were in a café but too late!I am in a café
I must say I was often tempted
For some reason, I can't edit my posts, so here is the smiley I forgot to add to my claim that Gen Espresso is a scam: For the record, Gen Espresso is what keeps me sane!
For some reason, I can't edit my posts, so here is the smiley I forgot to add to my claim that Gen Espresso is a scam: For the record, Gen Espresso is what keeps me sane!
Sweet, thank you!Thank you very much.
Goodness me - where to start?
That particular watch has been "all the way through the wringer" - as we say in quaint little old England.
Started out as white indices lume with white hands and then I went down the rabbit hole with the clever Brothers here on this thread.
Two things I must say at the outset - this is a Raffles dial - which basically you can Nuke and it still it looks good - and that's not the case for Rubys or other Vietnam dials - they're a lot less tolerant of being "worked".
Secondly - my method - The Watercolour Method - is also not very tolerant in terms of the chemicals you wash about on the dial - you can get water marks/ staining.
It's taken a lot of work to get that watch where it is - i.e: Finished!
And now? Reading - you have to read - there is no short cut.
The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread
Thank you bro, I got his reply and purchased already. Waiting for the processes cheers Johnforum.replica-watch.info
There's a ton of pages here that will get you results such as these.
Or you can ask one of the Masters here to do it for you.
Good Luck and show us how you go.
Just a warning it does get messy . . .
I didn't know about that detail. Could you provide the original picture or where the entire logo text is visible? In most high-resolution pictures, the EX is hidden by hour hand...
Yes, it's the silly habit of posing the hands at 10 mins to 2 for pics because it improves the composition.I didn't know about that detail. Could you provide the original picture or where the entire logo text is visible? In most high-resolution pictures, the EX is hidden by hour hand...