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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

316lad

Renowned Member
8/8/23
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This is very nice.
I'd like a similar configuration on my vietnam build.
How did you managed to match the hands with dial lumes?
Cheers
Thank you very much.
Goodness me - where to start?
That particular watch has been "all the way through the wringer" - as we say in quaint little old England.
Started out as white indices lume with white hands and then I went down the rabbit hole with the clever Brothers here on this thread.

Two things I must say at the outset - this is a Raffles dial - which basically you can Nuke and it still it looks good - and that's not the case for Rubys or other Vietnam dials - they're a lot less tolerant of being "worked".
Secondly - my method - The Watercolour Method - is also not very tolerant in terms of the chemicals you wash about on the dial - you can get water marks/ staining.

It's taken a lot of work to get that watch where it is - i.e: Finished!

And now? Reading - you have to read - there is no short cut.


There's a ton of pages here that will get you results such as these.

Or you can ask one of the Masters here to do it for you.

Good Luck and show us how you go.

Just a warning it does get messy . . .

 

keisuke_z

Renowned Member
22/1/13
505
303
63
Forgive me for asking - today I discovered the hard way that my shoulder less spring bars that I’d originally sourced for a 16570 build don’t actually seat fully in the Raffles case (as I watched it drop to the floor 🥲). I’m curious what springbars you folks are using that allow the pivot to extend all the way through? I’d found an 11 year old thread over on RWG briefly discussing this but not much else on search. Thanks! 🙏🏼
 

Action_Jensen

Known Member
20/4/21
161
252
63
Something like those for example. Im sure there are others out there but that is what i had saved :) The base raffles case has to be redrilled to 1,2mm or 1,3mm

 

pullthat92

Gonna make it
Certified
16/10/23
197
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43
Hi guys. I was planning my next build using an MQ dial, but I really didn't like the several critical errors that don't match the reference... so I decided to produce a completely new dial to correct all these issues. These include a opened X, incorrect logo, incorrect minute indices, etc. (Ruby also shares these issues.) For this, I'm in contact with local craftsmen.
Currently, I'm collecting high-quality reference photos of Omega 2914 and 1016 and making a vector image for a 28mm 1016 Mark 2 dial.
Feedback is also welcome. It seems like it'll take some time.


 

316lad

Renowned Member
8/8/23
911
1,807
93
UK
Hi guys. I was planning my next build using an MQ dial, but I really didn't like the several critical errors that don't match the reference... so I decided to produce a completely new dial to correct all these issues. These include a opened X, incorrect logo, incorrect minute indices, etc. (Ruby also shares these issues.) For this, I'm in contact with local craftsmen.
Currently, I'm collecting high-quality reference photos of Omega 2914 and 1016 and making a vector image for a 28mm 1016 Mark 2 dial.
Feedback is also welcome. It seems like it'll take some time.


Don't forget that "E" with the middle cross-member slightly raised.
 
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Karbon74

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Forgive me for asking - today I discovered the hard way that my shoulder less spring bars that I’d originally sourced for a 16570 build don’t actually seat fully in the Raffles case (as I watched it drop to the floor 🥲). I’m curious what springbars you folks are using that allow the pivot to extend all the way through? I’d found an 11 year old thread over on RWG briefly discussing this but not much else on search. Thanks! 🙏🏼

if you have drilled 1.3mm then you can use

20mm (Ø2.00mm) Rolex 050​

R19196 CousinsUK reference

You will need to file the ends as the lugs of the 1016 are slimmer
 
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Karbon74

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This method is the best for me too, for Raffles only.
I also did it very carefully with the Bivintage dial but never rince under running water

The only difference in technique is that I clean up the overspill over the lume using a fine 00000 painbrush with distilled/demineralized water to avoid the stains. The woodpolish spray never worked for me as it also wipes the paint on the lume.

Also, a quick pass in the oven at 180ºC will slightly cake the paint but not brown the white font
 
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Karbon74

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Italy and France are the only two places on Earth where you can have good expresso almost anywhere as a standard.

Not saying that it does not exist elsewhere, but a real expresso would only be served in pretentious places at extortionate prices
 

1016_idiot_savant

Active Member
Supporter
Certified
3/2/23
483
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Gen espresso is a scam, replica espresso is almost exactly the same at a fraction of the cost. Say, who *does* supply the best rep espresso 🤔


For some reason, I can't edit my posts, so here is the smiley I forgot to add to my claim that Gen Espresso is a scam: :LOL: For the record, Gen Espresso is what keeps me sane!

Edit: now I also can edit 😎
 
Last edited:

Karbon74

Pika Factory
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5/5/23
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EU - Kalos Region
For some reason, I can't edit my posts, so here is the smiley I forgot to add to my claim that Gen Espresso is a scam: :LOL: For the record, Gen Espresso is what keeps me sane!

Apple Original GIF by Apple TV+


...we know you are a barbarian from the North
 

freebalkany

Active Member
24/8/21
296
306
63
Thank you very much.
Goodness me - where to start?
That particular watch has been "all the way through the wringer" - as we say in quaint little old England.
Started out as white indices lume with white hands and then I went down the rabbit hole with the clever Brothers here on this thread.

Two things I must say at the outset - this is a Raffles dial - which basically you can Nuke and it still it looks good - and that's not the case for Rubys or other Vietnam dials - they're a lot less tolerant of being "worked".
Secondly - my method - The Watercolour Method - is also not very tolerant in terms of the chemicals you wash about on the dial - you can get water marks/ staining.

It's taken a lot of work to get that watch where it is - i.e: Finished!

And now? Reading - you have to read - there is no short cut.


There's a ton of pages here that will get you results such as these.

Or you can ask one of the Masters here to do it for you.

Good Luck and show us how you go.

Just a warning it does get messy . . .

Sweet, thank you!
 
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pullthat92

Gonna make it
Certified
16/10/23
197
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43
Don't forget that "E" with the middle cross-member slightly raised.
I didn't know about that detail. Could you provide the original picture or where the entire logo text is visible? In most high-resolution pictures, the EX is hidden by hour hand...
 
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316lad

Renowned Member
8/8/23
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I didn't know about that detail. Could you provide the original picture or where the entire logo text is visible? In most high-resolution pictures, the EX is hidden by hour hand...
Yes, it's the silly habit of posing the hands at 10 mins to 2 for pics because it improves the composition.

"The Tell: There are two easy things to spot on Mark 2 dials: the E in Rolex, which has diagonal serifs on the E, and the Swiss T<25, which sits on top of the minute hashes rather than further down. Both of these characteristics are unique amongst the matte dial variants."