The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[trash3939]

Many thanks for this information. I was thinking along similar lines - but the possibilities are just so varied and I haven't had any experience with anything like this yet.

Some cases with wire clips, such as BP and Ali Express, have a plexi press-fitted into the case along with a white gasket.

If they are glued, warm them up with a hair dryer, etc., and press them off from the inside with a crystal press.

 

[Karbon74]

 

[Karbon74]

Tomorrow my Raffles delivery with the albino dial will arrive. Yeah - some work to do

Until then, I'll "take care" of the Tudor Sub. And that's why I have a question for you cracks here. Since you asked about the case yesterday, I figured you guys here would be familiar with the 5513 cases (if that looks anything like one).
I've ordered a new crystal, but can't get the old one off - or don't want to use brutal force. Is the glass just plugged in like the 1016? Or is the crystal glued in this case? Or is there also a ring around the outside of the glass to press it onto the housing? I can't really tell?
I tried to take a few pictures - maybe someone here knows. I can imagine that the glass is glued. I can't see an outer ring directly on the glass.
If it's just plugged in, it should be possible to push it out from the inside - but that's not possible. Maybe I need more spinach?
If it is glued, what is the best way to get the glass off? Warm it up? Any solvents, brute force?
As for the photos, perhaps you can recognize something in them.



And - perhaps also important if it is glued: what do I use to glue the new crystal back on? Provided it fits at all...

And sorry for the many photos - I hope that at least one of them shows how this damn thing is stapled to the case...

This thing is glued. You can see the glue on the edges

You need a crystal press. Then, remove all gaskets including tube o-ring and dunk the case face down in acetone or nail varnish remover.

Scrub with a toothbrush and soap water

Ultrasonic clean.


Glue new crystal with hypocement

 

[lg.visio]

This thing is glued. You can see the glue on the edges

You need a crystal press. Then, remove all gaskets including tube o-ring and dunk the case face down in acetone or nail varnish remover.

Scrub with a toothbrush and soap water

Ultrasonic clean.


Glue new crystal with hypocement

Last post here regarding the Tudor so as not to spam the 1016 thread. Just wanted to say thanks again for the tip about the heat and the crystal press - it worked without destroying the old crystal. I had to sand down the outside of the new one by 0.3mm, otherwise the bezel inlay wouldn't have fitted. Most of the work was to get the old glue out of the case. Now I'm waiting for the glue and another inlay and then I can reassemble the watch. In the meantime, I can work a bit more on the crownguards and the polish ...

@Karbon74 -
I only read your post when the crystal was already down. Thanks for your help anyway.

Is this the right hypocement? > https://amzn.eu/d/hhXiaqm
I just received a delivery from Cousins the day before yesterday - now I'll just order the stuff from Amazon.
Apart from cleaning the case, is there anything special I need to consider when gluing it in? You don't need an additional seal, do you?


The new crystal looks much better - the old one distorted everything extremely and if you looked at the watch from the side, you almost couldn't read the time properly... Not that this is particularly important with our fake watches - but it should at least look nice...

 

[rickyman94]

This is amazing! Can’t be a raffles case right?

 

[369mafia]

Last post here regarding the Tudor so as not to spam the 1016 thread. Just wanted to say thanks again for the tip about the heat and the crystal press - it worked without destroying the old crystal. I had to sand down the outside of the new one by 0.3mm, otherwise the bezel inlay wouldn't have fitted. Most of the work was to get the old glue out of the case. Now I'm waiting for the glue and another inlay and then I can reassemble the watch. In the meantime, I can work a bit more on the crownguards and the polish ...

@Karbon74 -
I only read your post when the crystal was already down. Thanks for your help anyway.

Is this the right hypocement? > https://amzn.eu/d/hhXiaqm
I just received a delivery from Cousins the day before yesterday - now I'll just order the stuff from Amazon.
Apart from cleaning the case, is there anything special I need to consider when gluing it in? You don't need an additional seal, do you?


The new crystal looks much better - the old one distorted everything extremely and if you looked at the watch from the side, you almost couldn't read the time properly... Not that this is particularly important with our fake watches - but it should at least look nice...

There should have been a gasket in the groove where the crystal sits. Did you test fit the crystal ? snug fit?
crystal size is 30.5mm OD
Put a small bead of glue in the groove on the case set and then press the crystal into the case.
GS sets in 5-10 mins.
before reassembly , test for water ingress.

 

[369mafia]

 

[Karbon74]

This is amazing! Can’t be a raffles case right?

Gen, i left this for ref

 

[lg.visio]

There should have been a gasket in the groove where the crystal sits. Did you test fit the crystal ? snug fit?
crystal size is 30.5mm OD
Put a small bead of glue in the groove on the case set and then press the crystal into the case.
GS sets in 5-10 mins.
before reassembly , test for water ingress.

I didn't find a gasket when I removed the old crystal - just a lot of glue that was whitish, translucent and a little bit elastic. But this may also have changed due to the heat.

Neither the old nor the new crystal fit snugly in the recess. Both can be moved slightly - but only so slightly that you can feel it, but not really see it. The old crystal has an outer diameter of 30.0 mm, 28.3 mm on the inside and is 7.0 mm high. The new one had 30.5mm (now only 30.2), 28.3mm inside and is only 5.7mm high (which is fine with me, the other one already protruded extremely beyond the bezel).





Does it make sense to get another gasket? Or would it make sense to use a special UV adhesive? I've read somewhere here before that it holds quite firmly and is also waterproof. On the other hand, I'm not planning to go swimming with the watch - splash-proof is actually enough for me. Although of course it wouldn't be so bad if the watch was completely waterproof to 200m. You never know when you might have to dive to the Andrea Doria.



But to stay at least a little bit on topic - I was able to pick up my Raffles order today. This time I ordered different dials. I'm still not sure whether I should really age them. If I do, then only a little bit. I asked if I could get the case with the acrylic already taken apart. Originally I was told that he would probably only be able to send me the case with the sapphire crystal taken apart. But he sent me the case with the acrylic, which made me very happy because I might be able to use it for something else.



And for a change, a Jubilee - perhaps a good match for the Albino or Cartier dial.

 

[lg.visio]

And another question, as I'm still waiting for my PT5000. Many people here build their 1016 with NH35 /38. The dials from raffles fit on the NHxx, the hands have to be adapted - at least the second hand, by squeezing the tube a little close to the hand with tweezers. You may also have to "touch" the minute hand slightly with the tweezers (we are only talking about 0.02mm here?)
I still have a few nh35 lying around here. @Karbon74 once mentioned here that you should say when ordering from raffles that you want to install an NHxx. But does that mean that you get other parts from raffles? Or can I simply install an nh35 with the parts supplied?

Do I have to remove the date disk? Does it rub against the dial? I'm not worried about the ghost date - the watch is just for me, so it doesn't bother me.
If it's all too complicated, I'll wait a few more days for the PT5000 - but I'm afraid I'll have to start working on the case, dial and hands in the meantime.
I'm a little bit 'concerned', 'cause I 've overdone it a bit the last time.

 

[lg.visio]

Is that a 6610 or a 1016? I have read that some of the dials of the 6610 were probably also installed in the 1016 during the transition period. Actually, this red lettering with depth indication was only on the 6610, wasn't it?
But whatever it is, the watch looks simply gorgeous.

 

[Karbon74]

I changed provider for a2836 movements…

I should have stuck with Seagull…

 

[lg.visio]

I changed provider for a2836 movements…

I should have stuck with Seagull…

Working on a 1016 day date?

 

[Geonor]

I changed provider for a2836 movements…

I should have stuck with Seagull…

I'm doing a seagull 2836 build now as well, the 14270 case from Raffles.

 

[Karbon74]

Working on a 1016 day date?

No. I remove the calendar works and put in a 2 position setting lever jumper.

 

[369mafia]

@lg.visio it sounds like the tudor crystal was glued it with GS hypo and no gasket.. factories like JK use a crazy glue like product that is hard and brittle where GS is more rubbery like silicone

clean out the area and reappy a bead of GS and install crystal. check position from all angles to make sure its level and seated correctly and let it dry

 

[freebalkany]

Hey,
so I managed to fix my 1016 dial, not a great job, but acceptable I think.

Here are the before pics:




And after:






I hope it will stay stable and don't degrade further

 

[matzemedia]

Good morning! After reading the story from feefo I have to put my gilt 1016 at my wrist.

 

[lg.visio]

Looks like those 1016 Cartier dials aren’t quite as bombproof as the regular Raffles ones …
I actually wanted to keep it subtle this time - just a gentle bit of aging, nothing wild. So into the oven it went, 80°C, feeling optimistic.

Checked on it after about 5 minutes ... and boom - paint had cracked in a perfect little Mercedes star. Gotta admire the artistic flair, I guess.
Bit of a shame, but hey – that’s what happens when you subject cheap dials to spa treatments they were never meant to survive.



Now I’m stuck with two options:
Leave it as is and hope it won’t be too visible once the watch is fully built or switch to the albino dial ... but will I dare age that one again?
On the other hand, that dial is so insanely paper-white right now, there’s no way I can leave it like that. Maybe just a tiny bit of color? A hint? A whisper of patina?

The case is already done, the PT5000 is waiting patiently - I really wanted to take this one slow, for once. I even spent the whole week sanding the case like some obsessed monk. And then this happens.





Oh well ... as long as it’s just a cheap Raffles dial, it’s still recoverable.
I’ll go ahead and put it together - and if the cracked paint keeps bugging me, I’ll just swap the dial later.

 

[geoffdragon]

You could try black ink on a very fine oiler, into the cracks, then give the whole dial a dusting of satin or matt acrylic from a rattle can.

If you owned an original Cartier dial from old, you'd have it repaired not replaced for sure....