HSV726...
Fine looking '1016'. I really like the round top crystal but I am too cheap to buy a TrueDome. All I can find is the later 25-22 with sharp edges so I might call GS and see what they can come up with.
I have used a lot of genuine Rlx cases on projects and sometimes the standard type of spacer is not big enough OD to be a good fit. Here is how I have been mounting movements/dials for years and it also works fine with 'no foot' dials.
Rlx 15xx, 30xx, and 31xx movements are 12.5 ligne (approx 28.5mm) in overall diameter and ETA 28xx are 11.5 ligne (approx 26mm) in overall diameter. Many/most standard spacers are made for 11.5 ligne movements and cases with smaller IDs.
1...The movement ring/spacer OD is machined out of brass or aluminum to be a very close fit in the case and 'step cut' just a little bit on the outer edge so the dial can fit up against the dial seat
2...The ID of the spacer is also machined to be a very close fit around the movement and slots may be need to be cut in the spacer for case clamps unless the clamps can pass over the spacer. May also need a notch for the stem.
3....The movement ring is carefully glued onto the dial with two part epoxy. I am not much of a fan of 'dial dots'.
4...I make thicker case clamps out of feeler gauge material to hold it all in place in the case. Feeler gauge material is strong and holds its shape when bent to fit.
5...The case needs a 'clamp groove' machined inside the case or notches cut in the case to match the case clamp locations. I use a lathe with a thin cutter bit ground on the outer tip to cut the groove (if not one cut in the case already). This 'groove cutting tool' will usually need a 'clearance notch' cut in the outer end a little bit down from the actual cutter tip to allow it to go inside the case and not get against the case back threads.
6...The cutter bits are made from carbide steel 1/4 or 3/8 inch square stock depending on how deep the cutout next to the cutter bit needs to be to clear the case threads. Any case clamp notches needed in a case are carefully cut in the case by hand with a 'cut off wheel' mounted on a battery powered Dremel tool. The battery powered tool is easier to control in my experience.
After a watch is put together, this method is basically trouble free and the dial/movement will not slide around when setting time etc. because there is plenty of 'case clamp pressure' plus the close fitting spacer will keep it all in place. I also use this type of spacer with case clamps on dials with dial feet if a spacer is needed.
The catch is you will need access to a lathe and some brass or aluminum flat washers to make the case/movement spacers. If you do a lot of this type of work, a lathe is a necessity. Mine is a MM type Sherline.
The back side of the dial and dial side of the spacer can benefit from slightly roughing them with sandpaper to the epoxy will hold better. This is also a good time to glue any markers/emblems/calendar frames etc. suspected of being loose by sanding the old glue away and applying superglue gel etc. to the marker feet where they pass through the dial. No need to remove the marker, just sand the old glue away and the glue will travel down where it needs to be. Regular superglue travels like water so be very careful with it or use superglue gel, or two part epoxy, or crystal cement. Use any type of glue sparingly and I would stay away from regular superglue.
That's about it.
Typos are free.
My mistakes cost $$.
