The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[dpd3672]

Lads - we've got some serious ground to make up by the looks of things already "out there"!

He needs to take a grinder to those crown guards, lol.

 

[Karbon74]

"the only thing preventing me from moving to leather is the lack of engravings"

Yep, me too, on more than one project watch.
I bought a couple sets of 20mm Riyi end pieces on eBay to use with straps and it cured the no numbers problem (for me). The catch is stuffing the strap with the spring bars into the lug holes with the end pieces in place.

The method?
I use a sharpened wooden 'popsicle stick' to shove the strap (with the spring bars in the strap) under the Riyi 'hoods'. The wooden stick will not scratch anything, and you can shove the strap over to get the spring bars and strap between the lugs with the sharpened end.
It has worked fine so far. Might also need to narrow the stick down a little bit.

any link please?

 

[dpd3672]

any link please?

I think riyi is Raffles Ebay store name. They sell most of the same stuff, but without the Rolex branded items (sterile cases and dials, etc).

| eBay

But looking at their items, their end links look like they might be perfect for the heat transfer stuff we've been talking about.

 

[Karbon74]

But looking at their items, their end links look like they might be perfect for the heat transfer stuff we've been talking about.

are you talking about using solid end links as heat sinks?

ps : i dropped a few files *.eps in the share onedrive. found them online.
the speedmaster one is nice

 

[dpd3672]

are you talking about using solid end links as heat sinks?

ps : i dropped a few files *.eps in the share onedrive. found them online.
the speedmaster one is nice

Yes, my thought is to strip the case, sandwich the heat transfer decal between the case and end links, and clamp it firmly.

Then bake the entire assembly in the oven @ around 200-250 degrees (or whatever temp the heat transfer paper recommends, it might require some experimentation) until the transfer adheres to the case (the time will probably also require some experimentation).

When it's done, let it cool, unclamp it and remove the end links, peel or rinse off the paper, and the toner should be stuck to the case, and be sufficient to resist the electricity for saltwater etching.

So you'd use a print like this between each lug:




And if it works, the etching should only "attack" the white part of the print (where there's no toner and the metal is bare). In reality, you'd probably need the negative version:



But that would depend on what paper you're using.

Waterslide decal paper might also work, if it's film-free. I can experiment with that tonight as well.

 

[Karbon74]

"the only thing preventing me from moving to leather is the lack of engravings"

Yep, me too, on more than one project watch.
I bought a couple sets of 20mm Riyi end pieces on eBay to use with straps and it cured the no numbers problem (for me). The catch is stuffing the strap with the spring bars into the lug holes with the end pieces in place.

The method?
I use a sharpened wooden 'popsicle stick' to shove the strap (with the spring bars in the strap) under the Riyi 'hoods'. The wooden stick will not scratch anything, and you can shove the strap over to get the spring bars and strap between the lugs with the sharpened end.
It has worked fine so far. Might also need to narrow the stick down a little bit.

this needs a lot of pics

 

[automatico]

"this needs a lot of pics"

It is exactly the same procedure as installing a bracelet with hoods. The difference is instead of using a screwdriver etc. to push the spring bars, bracelet, and hoods between the lugs, a sharpened wooden 'popsicle' stick (or equivalent) is used. There is more room to work when there is only a rubber/canvas/leather strap compared to a metal bracelet.

It may take 10 or 12 minutes to get the first side but after that, it's a breeze.
Maybe try it a few times without the end pieces using the sharpened stick first to get a feel for working with a wooden tool.

The stick I use is about 6 or 7mm wide (more or less) and maybe 80mm long with a fairly sharp forward edge. After a few uses the stick will need refinishing or replacing but it still beats slipping with a metal tool and scratching the case, hoods, or cutting the strap.
If the case has lug holes all the way through, it is very easy and all you need to do is push the strap (with the spring bar in it) up into the hood between the lugs with the tool.
The only reason a wooden tool is used is to prevent damage to the strap or case.
'Hoods' = end pieces, same part.

I bought the Riyi hoods in November 2022.
eBay item number: 143281479840

 

[Karbon74]

 

[369mafia]

These just are pressure fit between the case and the strap gives it a clean look , carrying forward the hooded bubbleback look . I can dig it

 

[pullthat92]

BiVintageStore had them. I wanted to get one from them but compared to an actual service dial some bits are not quite correct.
I have uploaded a pic of an actual frog foot service dial.
You can see the differences in the "E"s.
Excellent dial though, you can contact bivintagestore. See if they still have them. Or they can make new ones.

Thanks. I haven't notice that detail..

 

[316lad]

Did this with my old Seamaster - quite liked it until the strap tore through!
But it looks like that can't happen with these types of lugs above.

 

[Spoons]

You can pick up solid curved endlink pieces on ali for $5-$6: example link

 

[Karbon74]

You can pick up solid curved endlink pieces on ali for $5-$6: example link

would those work on a 36mm 1016 case?

 

[1675lover]

would those work on a 36mm 1016 case?

Problem with alix is u wouldn’t know if they would fit nicely.
I’ve thought of getting some to use with a leather strap as well but eventually I went for nato.
the lack of engravings ain’t that annoying for me although I’d like to have them.

meanwhile im working a 3rd 1016 build which would make up a total of 6 explorers in my collection… time to get rid of some maybe?

 

[dpd3672]

I spent most of yesterday evening trying to get the transfers to stick, either with film free waterslide decals or acetone transfer...no luck.

Not sure if I'm missing a step in the process or if my materials aren't up to the task. I'm not giving up, but I'm taking a break from that project to work on some others. Also finished a build that was waiting on a part (not a 1016) that arrived, because I've spent too much time lately working on methods than actually building watches, lol.

I should have the svg files of dials on the 11th, so I can revisit some of the projects that have been waiting on that.

 

[Spoons]

would those work on a 36mm 1016 case?

Yes, they fit the 36mm Raffles cases quite nicely. This is what they look like on a Raffles 2824 sapphire case:

 

[316lad]

Yes, they fit the 36mm Raffles cases quite nicely. This is what they look like on a Raffles 2824 sapphire case:

They could do with a little bending up at the ends just to flush them with the top surface of the lugs.

 

[Karbon74]

They could do with a little bending up at the ends just to flush them with the top surface of the lugs.

they are solid. You can't bend them

 

[dpd3672]

they are solid. You can't bend them

You can bend anything with the right tool.

 

[316lad]

they are solid. You can't bend them

Ha! This is the 1016 Thread . . .