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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

dpd3672

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I also asked Wainlux on AliX. They sell compact laser engravers. They told me that their 10W version can directly engrave SS.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. WAINLUX K8 Mini Blue Laser Engraving Machine Ultimate Desktop Laser Engraver 2.5W 5W 10W for Productivity DIY Small Businesses
I’m far from an expert on laser printers, but my concerns would be

1. The laser is focused to be sharp at a precise distance from the work. Because the case is round, there would need to be a solution for keeping the distance consistent from the center (the highest point) to the lowest (the left and right edges of the engraving). It’s probably 2-3mm difference.

2. I think 10w can mark stainless steel, but I don’t know if it will actually engrave it. Possibly with multiple passes, or with some agent to give it a boost.

3. Laser engraving, even when it does work, gives a different look than mechanical engraving. I’m aware that this is hidden between the lugs, under an end link or largely obscured by a strap, but spending $500 or more to give a less than satisfactory result is hard on the return on investment calculations. For half that, even less, you could buy a vintage drag engraver like Rolex factory actually used. Saltwater etching is also less than perfect, but it costs maybe $10 total to set up, and gives a lot of bang for the buck.

If you have a laser engraver already, or would use it for other things, it makes more sense, but to buy it just for engraving lugs is a hard sell to a spouse.

And this is not meant to crap on your idea, I think this thread is a great place to brainstorm ideas to make our projects better, but it’s also a great place to anticipate obstacles or dead ends, and come up with workarounds collaboratively.

So far, my solutions would be

1. Average the distance from highest to lowest and focus the laser on that point. It will be less sharp the farther it is from the focus point, but possibly not enough to stand out.

2. Multiple passes, or pre-treatment with a coloring agent of some type

3. Find a cheaper solution. Bare minimum, I think you can get a 3d printer and laser add on for about $60 (refurbished) and $50, respectively. That’s for a 1.6w laser. Upgrading to 5w (this is what I have) is another $25. Upgrading to 10w is about $200.

You can also get a dedicated laser engraver for $100-200 or so, although it’s a bit weaker. Multiple passes might make u for lack of power, I’m not sure.
 
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Karbon74

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I enjoy those debates a lot !

my plan A is still your vinyl stencil 😁
and I have already located gravographs. Here
I was replying to @Caboose comment about direct engraving !

Now, the Wainlux has a rotary addon for engraving cylinders. that might work.
It's a overall quite costly option indeed. However, a modern laser engraver is quite useful for other crafts. For example, engraving the Speedmaster branding on clasps 😅

Finally, there is that video I posted a few weeks ago, where the guy prepositioned the sticker on the metal, engraved the sticker and then saltwater etched. This can work with a low power laser.

I am guessing that the major challenge of the stencil is to find the right material. Also, the 4 6 8 9 0 may be problematic due to cutouts
 
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dpd3672

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I enjoy those debates a lot !

my plan A is still your vinyl stencil 😁
and I have already located gravographs. Here
I was replying to @Caboose comment about direct engraving !

Now, the Wainlux has a rotary addon for engraving cylinders. that might work.
It's a overall quite costly option indeed. However, a modern laser engraver is quite useful for other crafts. For example, engraving the Speedmaster branding on clasps 😅

Finally, there is that video I posted a few weeks ago, where the guy prepositioned the sticker on the metal, engraved the sticker and then saltwater etched. This can work with a low power laser.

I am guessing that the major challenge of the stencil is to find the right material. Also, the 4 6 8 9 0 may be problematic due to cutouts
Yes, the cutouts…not just the numbers, but the letters R, D, and A.

I think that might not be so hard to address. Either put masking tape over the sticker before peeling it from the backing, transfer it to the case, then peel off the masking tape. With a little finesse, the “floating” part of the character should stay where it’s supposed to.

Or if that fails, a little dab of something non-conductive with a fine pen or needle. It doesn’t have to be perfect, just close.
 
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dpd3672

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I got a quote from BiVintage for the railmaster dial.
It is obviously more expensive but not outrageous
You know the minute you assemble all the parts for a build, one's going to show up on M2M for $100, right?

It's happened to me before, I'm sure to everyone here.

;)
 
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Karbon74

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this is the case I am thinking about
works on lugs, and crown to change

any comments? I am not very good at identifying case shapes


 

dpd3672

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this is the case I am thinking about
works on lugs, and crown to change

any comments? I am not very good at identifying case shapes


What about gen? Vintage Omegas that aren't dive watches (Seamasters with rotating bezels), chronographs (anything with a 321 or 861 movement), or designed by Genta (Pie Pan and C Case Constellations) are pretty damn cheap, for a complete watch or a case alone. You could probably get one with a working or serviceable movement for not much more, and Omega used a lot of watches that were ETA/Valjoux clones, so an Asian movement would also be an option as a direct fit. Basically, you'd have a gen case, crystal, bezel and crown, a Rep dial, and a gen or rep movement/hands. It's probably as close as you're gonna get and not terribly expensive.

I'm possibly worse than you at case nuances, but a quick Ebay search shows a lot of potential candidates. Omega put a lot of different models into a very few different cases, it's quite possible you could get a gen case that's the same as the case Omega used in the Railmaster for about what an Ali/Raffles case would cost, or just a bit more.




These are just a couple currently for sale that turned up in a quick Ebay search. I've seen LOTS of Omega cases show up in "lots" of broken watches, so that would be another option where you might get several useful items.

You could build a complete Franken Omega for the cost of a higher end rep Rolex dial, lol.
 

dpd3672

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Damn, have you seen the prices for gen Railmasters? They're cheap enough it might not be worth investing too much in a rep.

The cheapest one on Ebay is a "Buy it now" for about $2000.

There's a Chronograph for ~$2300, which would seem to be a steal. The movement alone would probably make a nice donor for a GOOD Speedmaster rep, lol.

The chrono is actually really cool. It's like the signature design elements of most of the watches I love...Plain black dial with painted text and 3,6,9 (and 12) indices like an Explorer, chrono subdials like a Speedmaster, 42mm size, which is the upper end of what I like wearing. Put on a diving bezel and make the dial gilt with a chapter ring and it could replace everything in the collection, lol.

I...must...resist...
 
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369mafia

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I also asked Wainlux on AliX. They sell compact laser engravers. They told me that their 10W version can directly engrave SS.

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. WAINLUX K8 Mini Blue Laser Engraving Machine Ultimate Desktop Laser Engraver 2.5W 5W 10W for Productivity DIY Small Businesses
laser engraving does not look right imo. just look at the markings on the raffles cases. those are laser engraved and they dont look anything like gen. Too bad tho...
 
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316lad

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laser engraving does not look right imo. just look at the markings on the raffles cases. those are laser engraved and they dont look anything like gen. Too bad tho...
I'm working on those as I am so unhappy with them as laser engraved.
I'm using them as a template to create a pantograph/ stamp look and will post results when done.
All done with hand tools.
This is what we're starting with . . .

 

316lad

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laser engraving does not look right imo. just look at the markings on the raffles cases. those are laser engraved and they dont look anything like gen. Too bad tho...
I'm working on those as I am so unhappy with them as laser engraved.
I'm using them as a template to create a pantograph/ stamp look and will post results when done.
All done with hand tools.
This is what we're starting with . . .


I'm working on those as I am so unhappy with them as laser engraved.
I'm using them as a template to create a pantograph/ stamp look and will post results when done.
All done with hand tools.
This is what we're starting with . . .

And just a Heads-Up for anyone ordering from Ken at Raffles - you can stipulate Stamped interior caseback markings instead of laser.
Maybe I am crazy but could we refinish the laser engraving by hand with a diamond stylus?
Yep, that's where I'm going with this - a mixture of tools to introduce the human/ machine element and delete the laser element.
 

316lad

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Particularly as the outside of the watch is so very, very fine (no humility here!). . .it irks me that that hideous laser etching is inside it . . .

 
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dpd3672

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I'm working on those as I am so unhappy with them as laser engraved.
I'm using them as a template to create a pantograph/ stamp look and will post results when done.
All done with hand tools.
This is what we're starting with . . .

For something like this, I think I could 3D print the "master" for the pantograph engraver. It will be plastic, so probably won't last as long as a metal one, but then I'm not running a factory, so it should outlive most of us, lol.

I did something similar for a watch I built for my girlfriend. She likes Flamingos, so I downloaded a 2D image, printed it in 3D on a plate, and used it to trace onto her watch. It came out pretty good.
 

316lad

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For something like this, I think I could 3D print the "master" for the pantograph engraver. It will be plastic, so probably won't last as long as a metal one, but then I'm not running a factory, so it should outlive most of us, lol.

I did something similar for a watch I built for my girlfriend. She likes Flamingos, so I downloaded a 2D image, printed it in 3D on a plate, and used it to trace onto her watch. It came out pretty good.
Well that sounds very interesting indeed DPD.
What I'm planning to do is to use the existing laser engraving as a template to bash it up a bit and mask the traces of the laser and make it look more like a stamping/ pantograph finish - as Karbon said - using a diamond tool/ mix of tools, etc.
Surely your suggestion would only be applicable to a blank case-back or have I missed a trick?
 
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