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The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

Karbon74

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I got a tiny bit of D5 leaking on the reversing wheels... Helicopter effect.

It sort of healed itself now. No more choppa. So I am guessing the tolerance is super thin.
On the techn manual, ETA even says "don't clean this, buy new" 😂
 

freebalkany

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Not familiar with this one, but I like the styling cues. Most of the things I like about vintage watches, rolled into one.
It just needs a bit of patina...lol.

Interesting story, I'd never heard of this brand before:

Hey, I actually own that watch. Albeit the date version

 

316lad

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God, I'm missing for a day - come back and suddenly we're building movements. Ok, yep, let's do it - just what one comes to expect of this thread.
 

dpd3672

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God, I'm missing for a day - come back and suddenly we're building movements. Ok, yep, let's do it - just what one comes to expect of this thread.
Take a nice vacation. You'll come back to us setting up our CNC machines and bidding on Gerald Genta's original technical drawings on Ebay...
 

Hayst

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Pretty sure whoever offers a gen spec 1016 case set for under $200 US is going to own the market...and kill off the competition.
 

dpd3672

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Pretty sure whoever offers a gen spec 1016 case set for under $200 US is going to own the market...and kill off the competition.
Maybe so, but to be honest, I think there's room for a lot of different levels of accuracy and price points. Raffles/Cartel watches cost $100-150 for a complete watch that's very good out of the box, and fairly easy to make more accurate with simple tools and not even a lot of skill or experience. Patience, research, and some sandpaper and you're now a modder with some very clear "how to" guides all over the internet

A $200 case set that eliminates a lot of the elbow grease would be a huge time saver, but true gen spec means you're now looking at dials that cost $100-500 instead of $30-50, plus you're probably going to want a gen ETA movement, so add another $100-200 instead of $20, and by the time you add hands, a bracelet, and the crystal/bezel (if needed), you're starting to get into some real money.

I think one of the best things about certain models (the 1016, obviously, and ones like the 5513 Sub) is that there's a version for almost everybody, from the guy who wants an OOTB near perfect copy (Viet or Franken) and is willing to spend the money to get it, to the guy who can take $100 worth of Raffles parts and some time out of his day to make a watch that would represent well next to the Viet/Franken, to someone that's happy with a stock, unmodified, $100 watch.

The 1016, and a handful of other iconic models, are like Legos...you're really only limited by your imagination and the amount you're willing to put into it, whether that translates to time or money.
 

Karbon74

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If there was a gen spec 1016 case at a 200$ price point, and gen spec dials at 100...all to assemble as-is...
then this thread would not even exist, or would have died out quickly.

In the 5513 thread and this thread, you see mostly a bunch of makers. The most asked question and the most debated here is "how did you get to this result?"
 

dpd3672

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If there was a gen spec 1016 case at a 200$ price point, and gen spec dials at 100...all to assemble as-is...
then this thread would not even exist, or would have died out quickly.

In the 5513 thread and this thread, you see mostly a bunch of makers. The most asked question and the most debated here is "how did you get to this result?"

Yeah, two threads that start with: "Cartel or Tiger Concepts or Raffles?"
Continue with: "Do you think these hands from Alix look good enough?
Go a little further with: "I don't know if coffee and an oven or watercolor paints make more accurate patina."
and end with: Photos that look like they were clipped from a Sotheby's catalog.

:ROFLMAO:
 

Hayst

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Talking of eta 2824-2 movements.
We have a top rated on the way for my daughter's watch, I shall take her old top rated and drop it in a case for myself...what is interesting is that the newest eta have TRIOVIS regulation like the Tudors had.

s-l1600.jpg


Ebay seller
 

Hayst

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If there was a gen spec 1016 case at a 200$ price point, and gen spec dials at 100...all to assemble as-is...
then this thread would not even exist, or would have died out quickly.

In the 5513 thread and this thread, you see mostly a bunch of makers. The most asked question and the most debated here is "how did you get to this result?"


Oh yes it would, there is no way in hell it wouldn't. The watches would just be a little more accurate.
 

dpd3672

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Oh yes it would, there is no way in hell it wouldn't. The watches would just be a little more accurate.
Yeah, I often think that what draws people to this thread, and the 1016 reps in general, is not merely a love of the design.

It's a love for a project with very low barriers to entry, that plot a course from a cheap basis to an extremely faithful replica. It's one watch, with few competitors, that opens the doors for beginning collectors, modders, and watchsmiths to a result that would rival the best factory produced reps from the heavy hitters. With the right work, a DIY 1016 is probably NWBIG status, as far as being hard to distinguish from the real deal, at a very reasonable cost.

Modding a Patek or AP can cost thousands of dollars for very minor improvements. Modding the 1016 is about as simple and cheap as you can get, with results that probably surpass most other reps, other than the Frankens, where most of the watch came from the gen factory.

It seems like most of the folks that follow this thread are more passionate about the process than the product.
 

316lad

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Tricky isn't it?
The 3135 Auto Plate hasn't the general shape that could be changed to be more 1570-like.
The ETA 2824/ 2836 just look nothing like it - and then you're anodizing the reversers which are open-plan on the ETA's - whereas on the Rlx they're sealed units so all sorts of problems faced there with correct lubing.
The 2813 are not a million miles away but they're horrible movements - what do they cost these days? about £10? - for some reason (I suppose because they are only ever used in cheap, cheap reps) they never made a half-decent clone version - you get what you pay for!

It's a difficult one; - how to get something which as closely as possible resembles the 1570 - and, after going to all that trouble, having a decent movement with reliabilty and time-keeping. Something to be proud of.
 
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dpd3672

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Tricky isn't it?
The 3135 Auto Plate hasn't the general shape that could be changed to be more 1570-like.
The ETA 2824/ 2836 just look nothing like it - and then you're anodizing the reversers which are open-plan on the ETA's - whereas on the Rlx they're sealed units so all sorts of problems faced there with correct lubing.
The 2813 are not a million miles away but they're horrible movements - what do they cost these days? about £10? - for some reason (I suppose because they are only ever used in cheap, cheap reps) they never made a half-decent clone version - you get what you pay for!

It's a difficult one; - how to get something which as closely as possible resembles the 1570 - and, after going to all that trouble, having a decent movement with reliabilty and time-keeping. Something to be proud of.
I've heard mixed reviews of the 2813. On paper, it's not a horrible design, I assume, so much of the problems probably come from dirty, poorly lubricated movements and bad quality control. I've seen more than a few people claim they're very good movements after a proper service.

Assuming a 2813 could be made in one of the "better" factories, with proper QC, lubrication, and under sanitary conditions, it would theoretically make it a very attractive candidate for a rep watch...especially if some basic cosmetic touches could make it about as accurate a rep movement as, say, one of the Omega "clone" movements used in their reps...not at all a clone, but lt looks the part.

That said, those cost saving measures are probably 90% of its appeal to both manufacturers and end users, so it woudl be tough to justify unless they played up the angle that with some engraving and polishing, it's very 1570-like.
 
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pullthat92

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I couldn't remember the site which Rubydial moved to, so I just searched for vintagedial.com and a database came up. It looks interesting. It doesn't seem very useful though (the data is too small. There's no 1016 either).
 
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dpd3672

Putting the "whore" in "horology" since 2023
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Vintagedial
I couldn't remember the site which Rubydial moved to, so I just searched for vintagedial.com and a database came up. It looks interesting. It doesn't seem very useful though (the data is too small. There's no 1016 either).
Not every tool works for every job, but any tool can be the right one in the right situation. Bookmarking this, thanks!
 
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