The 1016: The Under Appreciated Thread

[Karbon74]

sharing this here

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $58.20 50％ Off | High Accuracy 2824-2 Clone Polished Plate Version Seagull 2824-2 ST2130 Automatic Mechanical Watch Movement White Disc 3.0 ETA

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQdnGbf

Polished 2824. Not sure the quality is worth the extra € but it looks nice

 

[dpd3672]

sharing this here

Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! US $58.20 50％ Off | High Accuracy 2824-2 Clone Polished Plate Version Seagull 2824-2 ST2130 Automatic Mechanical Watch Movement White Disc 3.0 ETA

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EQdnGbf

Polished 2824. Not sure the quality is worth the extra € but it looks nice

That's nice; combine it with one of the Raffles Rolex marked rotors and paint or anodize a couple of those wheels purple, and you'll have a rough approximation of a gen movement that'll pass a very cursory inspection.

Like people who don't know much about watches, but have seen a couple photos or a You Tube video featuring a Rolex movement.

 

[316lad]

Already got one baby, already got one!
It was my choice after research to acquire the Seagull ST-2130. It was a good price - a little more than that Ali price but I made the decision to buy from Cousins as there are clones of clones, etc.
Also did the Date Delete and 2-position Stem.
It's been in my Explorer build over a month now and has not missed a beat. Excellent performance on the Timegrapher too; +/_ 5 secs/day.
And it's a pleasure to take the caseback off and see a nice bit of polishing.

 

[Karbon74]

2 position stem?
what do you mean?
I need the Cousins link

 

[Karbon74]

wait, you are just referring to the 2801 part yes?
The stem is standard.

 

[316lad]

The Perlage is done okay but the Geneva Stripes (Côtes de Genève) are particularly well done.

 

[316lad]

wait, you are just referring to the 2801 part yes?
The stem is standard.

Qui.

 

[316lad]

Sorry, I mean Oui.

 

[dpd3672]

2 position stem?
what do you mean?
I need the Cousins link

IIRC (and haven't bothered to do this myself, so going from memory) you either modify or replace a part on the 2824 (eith by carefully filing or replacing with part 445 from a 2801, I think) and the stem will lose the date set position, so it will operate more like the gen, with 2 positions for the crown, winding and setting the hands. You can also remove the date wheel and associated parts, although that to me seems like overkill, since it's hidden under the dial, so out of sight, out of mind.

 

[Joshuwa]

Speaking of movements, what do you guys prefer to put in your 1016s?

 

[316lad]

IIRC (and haven't bothered to do this myself, so going from memory) you either modify or replace a part on the 2824 (eith by carefully filing or replacing with part 445 from a 2801, I think) and the stem will lose the date set position, so it will operate more like the gen, with 2 positions for the crown, winding and setting the hands. You can also remove the date wheel and associated parts, although that to me seems like overkill, since it's hidden under the dial, so out of sight, out of mind.

That it. I removed the Date Wheel, jumper and intermediate wheel so as to lessen what tiny amount of extra friction it might have been responsible for creating - and by doing so boost the power reseve by a little - but as you say, leave it alone.

 

[Karbon74]

IIRC (and haven't bothered to do this myself, so going from memory) you either modify or replace a part on the 2824 (eith by carefully filing or replacing with part 445 from a 2801, I think) and the stem will lose the date set position, so it will operate more like the gen, with 2 positions for the crown, winding and setting the hands. You can also remove the date wheel and associated parts, although that to me seems like overkill, since it's hidden under the dial, so out of sight, out of mind.

actually, I misread his words. I thought there was also a ETA stem specific for 2 positions.

I know about the 2801 trick.
I thought like you before about the calendar works. But then I tried it and removed all of it. The movement feels smoother on winding and has a bit more power reserve, I feel. Plus you gain a few grams off the watch.

Now I do it systematically

 

[dpd3672]

Speaking of movements, what do you guys prefer to put in your 1016s?

I've mostly been using 2824 in everything I build, because they're super cheap and run well. That said, the damn Keyless can be EXTREMELY frustrating, and I'm considering experimenting with a NH35 or 8215 moving forward...they've been a lot easier to live with.

The problem is, I've been adding a couple 2824 to every Ali order I make, so I've accumulated quite a stash of them...

 

[Karbon74]

Speaking of movements, what do you guys prefer to put in your 1016s?

Mostly it depends on the case.
2824 is the usual. Then you can buy hands from Raffles in one lot

some use NH38 to get low beat and nodate OOTB. But it means you buy hands elsewhere. If you have OCD, you will probs need to relume hands and dial to match color.

@dpd3672 says, usually as you buy stuff you accumulate parts (and knowledge) about ETA so you usually go for that

 

[HSV726]

I like the look of the Ali express Seagul / 2824 movement linked above,
I have only had one experience of a clone movement and the second hand pinion was too large to accept a eta spec minute hand, I was able to broach the hand but it caused all sorts of height issues for me.

Are they generally pretty good in this regard? as I would like to just fit the hands without modification

 

[Karbon74]

I like the look of the Ali express Seagul / 2824 movement linked above,
I have only had one experience of a clone movement and the second hand pinion was too large to accept a eta spec minute hand, I was able to broach the hand but it caused all sorts of height issues for me.

Are they generally pretty good in this regard? as I would like to just fit the hands without modification

Comparing the stock a2836 that come in JKF and Seagull movement, the latter has a much better finish. You can visibly see that when you work on the parts.

Hard to say on the hands posts tolerances, even if I feel they are more "solid"

IMHO, it has more to do with the quality of the hands.

 

[316lad]

I like the look of the Ali express Seagul / 2824 movement linked above,
I have only had one experience of a clone movement and the second hand pinion was too large to accept a eta spec minute hand, I was able to broach the hand but it caused all sorts of height issues for me.

Are they generally pretty good in this regard? as I would like to just fit the hands without modification

I'm delighted with the mechanical build quality of the Seagull. I don't see or feel any discernable difference with a gen ETA 2824.
The hands pinions and posts are well up to the job.
The hands have been on and off the movement more times that a nun's electric "back" massager.

 

[HSV726]

Fantastic thanks fellas, cheapest o could get a gen was 170GBP so this at 40 is a big saving

 

[dpd3672]

Fantastic thanks fellas, cheapest o could get a gen was 170GBP so this at 40 is a big saving

You can get super cheap 2824 clones on Ali Express for under $20 from time to time. They're not high grade Swiss with Chronometer accuracy, but work fine for projects like these builds. If you do wind up growing exceptionally attached to a particular build, you can always upgrade the movement down the road, and recycle the cheap one to another build in progress.

 

[1016_idiot_savant]

Speaking of movements, what do you guys prefer to put in your 1016s?

NH38 all the way - as mentioned above, low beat and no date position out-the-box and tough as nails for the ham-fisted (I have a box full of ETAs and ETA clones with FUBARed keyless works despite following stem-removing instructions to the letter). They run like tractors, and once you figure out in which position they run fast and slow, it becomes a sport to keep them in time by placing them stem up, down, etc at night. I might need to readjust the time on my NH38s once a month or so...