• Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!

PsychoTee's Repair & Servicing Journey

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Drop the 9504 and take the 9501. I had 9504 and it's a piece of shit grease that needs to be stirred every time. 9501 is in my opinion much better and stays better.

For Rolex movements, use hp1000.

I personally only user kluber p125 on barrel walls as a breaking grease, on all type of barrels. It has so far given me the best results always on all kinds of steel types. When I don't change the whole mainspring, I clean it with a piece of watchmaker tissue soaked in alcohol by running it along the length while holding it with a tweezer. Then I wind it up and apply a couple of drops of hp1300 onto the spring while it's in the barrel. So far the best results.
Every watchmaker has his own methods.

Recently bought these movement holders from ali for eta movements. It's much much better than that green plastic thing for eta 28xx movements and it turns.

https://m.nl.aliexpress.com/item/400...640x640Q90.jpg

I have noticed that with the 9504. I have to stir my pot every once and awhile, and the small container when I get new grease out. Ill have to pick up some 9501!

Do you use HP1000 in place of HP1300 on the Rolex movements? I know some older Rolex movements recommended HP1000. I have that in stock as well and can start trying that out.

I need some better movement holders. The Bergeon 4040 just isn't cutting it. It's a good holder, but I want more specific holders for better support. I'll check those out!

As always thanks for the insight man! Goes a long way!
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: JNSD and Logixa

Logixa

I'm Pretty Popular
9/11/17
1,105
741
113
Netherlands
Yeah I use hp1000 on rolex movements. As for movement holders, the one I linked also has a 3135 holder in it. I find it to work as good as the horotec red one. Get the ones I linked in a pm to you for the 4130 and 7750 movements. They rock!
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Yeah I use hp1000 on rolex movements. As for movement holders, the one I linked also has a 3135 holder in it. I find it to work as good as the horotec red one. Get the ones I linked in a pm to you for the 4130 and 7750 movements. They rock!

I’m going to grab those ones off of Aliexpress. Then maybe the good 4130 down the road.
Thanks for the help man!
 

kennygconspiracy

I'm Pretty Popular
21/4/19
1,806
2,161
113
Love following this thread, so many goodies and tasty information to pick up!

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 
  • Like
Reactions: PsychoTee16

kennygconspiracy

I'm Pretty Popular
21/4/19
1,806
2,161
113
Just placed an order for some HP1000, I'm excited to try it out myself and post results

Sent from my ONEPLUS A6003 using Tapatalk
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Hey All!

Finished up the case-back side of the movement last evening, and she is running great before regulating. Will be moving on to the Dial side this evening to finish this one up!
Majority of oil used was 9010 or HP1300 on these items.
Again, I like to use 9504 grease on the winding system (Crown Wheel in particular), even though the manual calls for HP1300. I feel like it stay put better...up for debate though!

i also followed the guidance of members here to oil the pallet jewels in place, and I will say it went relatively well!

Enjoy the pics.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JNSD and SuperLory

Oascom

Respected Member
INMATE
Patron
Certified
19/1/16
4,410
5,073
113
Drop the 9504 and take the 9501. I had 9504 and it's a piece of shit grease that needs to be stirred every time. 9501 is in my opinion much better and stays better.

For Rolex movements, use hp1000.

I personally only user kluber p125 on barrel walls as a breaking grease, on all type of barrels. It has so far given me the best results always on all kinds of steel types. When I don't change the whole mainspring, I clean it with a piece of watchmaker tissue soaked in alcohol by running it along the length while holding it with a tweezer. Then I wind it up and apply a couple of drops of hp1300 onto the spring while it's in the barrel. So far the best results.
Every watchmaker has his own methods.

Recently bought these movement holders from ali for eta movements. It's much much better than that green plastic thing for eta 28xx movements and it turns.

https://m.nl.aliexpress.com/item/40...249684638a89d8b327f4600bal.jpg_640x640Q90.jpg

9504 is basically 9501 with additive to actually make it more adhesive so in theory should be better.

Never had problems with mine, just use small quantities and replace often and should be good to go.

But like you said everyone has their preferred methods etc :)



I like this thread i was thinking modders and watchmakers should have their own section to talk about some problems and solutions :)
​​​
 

WolfKissed

Renowned Member
Supporter
29/6/21
503
563
93
California
Very cool thread! I’ve started gathering tools but still have much to go… I’ve just started taking apart cheap movements I can afford to break and trying to put them back together to learn. I’m very interested in your manual thread and will check it out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
9504 is basically 9501 with additive to actually make it more adhesive so in theory should be better.

Never had problems with mine, just use small quantities and replace often and should be good to go.

But like you said everyone has their preferred methods etc :)



I like this thread i was thinking modders and watchmakers should have their own section to talk about some problems and solutions :)
​​​

That would be awesome.

What's your opinion on using 9504 on most of the Keyless works? I know ETA manuals show HP1300, but would 9504 be a better fit?
 

Oascom

Respected Member
INMATE
Patron
Certified
19/1/16
4,410
5,073
113
That would be awesome.

What's your opinion on using 9504 on most of the Keyless works? I know ETA manuals show HP1300, but would 9504 be a better fit?

I like to use it in some areas - it's thicker and stays nicely
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
I like to use it in some areas - it's thicker and stays nicely

I would agree 100%. I feel HP1300 is too runny (Even though its thicker than most) for some of the keyless and winding applications.
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Finished up this 2836-2 yesterday evening!

Enjoy the photos! Again I tried to show oiling locations when I could. I usually get on a roll and forget to take pictures...

All the dial side parts lined up.

Yoke Spring and Date Yoke set. The 2836-2 has a instant date change module...bit different from the 2824-2. I guess this is the reason we see it in a lot of Rolex Models.

Date driving wheel in. This can be tricky at times. You have to pull back the spring loading yoke and place the wheel in at the same time.
Several more components installed for the motion and calendar works.

Date jumper and cover plate installed. The jumper gets coated with Epilame, and I oil the jumper three total times after advancing the date wheel...as recommended in the manual.
Date wheel and minute wheel bridge installed.
Finished up! And timegrapher results look good!
 
  • Like
Reactions: mp1mancini

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Finally have something worthy to show!!

Up on the bench this week is a VS3235. I’ll again show oiling locations and such.
But for now, just a couple teaser pics!

More to come in the coming days.

26167f21871e24056d20354738c13c04.jpg


6e37625f97149e411301691935e0b85d.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Swiss Crown

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Good Morning All!

Started to put back together this VS3235. I honestly think these are easier to work on than the 3135, and that is saying something. Keyless has less components, train wheel system is easier to install and line up with the bridge, etc...

There are no available manuals, that I know of for this movement, so a lot of what I oil and grease is based on the 3135...and some "judgement" locations! So again any comments are welcome!

On to the pics!

This evening I will move on to the Pallets and Balance, then finish up the Dial Side and Automatic Module!

Thanks for looking!
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Hey All!

Wanted to start showing the work going into my personal 4130. Not the first one I have serviced, but the first one installing this many gen parts on! There truly is no comparison!

- I did have to broach out the Train Wheel bridge slightly, as it was way too tight. It still requires a little coercing to fall into place, but I don't have to jam it down and break the pivots. I just used some smoothing broaches from Bergeon.
- I am still waiting on a Gen Balance Assembly, but all the parts so far are falling nicely into place. And they look great!!
- And a huge thank you to the individual who helped me get all these parts. This community is really something special!

Enjoy the photos. Any comments from the experts is always welcome!
 

PsychoTee16

-- Watchmaker --
Vendor (Watch Repair)
Certified
24/3/12
1,165
789
113
Louisiana
Morning All!

Haven't posted in sometime...been very busy! Lately some good progress has been made on the 4130 build. All that remains is monting the dial, hands, casing the movement, and installing the Rotor! Enjoy the pics...again shoutout to the individual who helped me get all these parts! At the end of the day it looks great, and is performing great with that Gen Balance. Just needs a little bit of tweaking with the Microstella Tool.

Lots of pics incoming!