Project "RWI Raffle Win"... a 1675 Build

[Redheart]

Great thread. You’ve inspired me to take on my own journey. What date wheel will you use?

For me cartel ! The stock dw on the stock 2813!

 

[p0pperini]

So much information is gathering together in this thread... I'm starting to get giddy.

And I know what'll happen - by the end of this project I'll have bought 6 different movements, 22 pairs of hands and 20 date wheels. I'll have attempted to make a cardboard movement spacer, superglued a GMT hand to a pinion without a dial in-between, and set fire to my case.

 

[SuperTopGun]

So much information is gathering together in this thread... I'm starting to get giddy.

And I know what'll happen - by the end of this project I'll have bought 6 different movements, 22 pairs of hands and 20 date wheels. I'll have attempted to make a cardboard movement spacer, superglued a GMT hand to a pinion without a dial in-between, and set fire to my case.

Hahahahha hah fantastic

 

[C Master]

but I am not sure anymore cause the 2813 are not compatible... But I think that is not even an ETA clone but a Chinese original...

The 2813 is a clone of the Miyota so the hand holes are completely different.

3135 hand size 95/140/22
28xx hand size 90/150/25
2813 hand size 100/150/17

 

[Redheart]

So much information is gathering together in this thread... I'm starting to get giddy.

And I know what'll happen - by the end of this project I'll have bought 6 different movements, 22 pairs of hands and 20 date wheels. I'll have attempted to make a cardboard movement spacer, superglued a GMT hand to a pinion without a dial in-between, and set fire to my case.

Hahaha! I tried the spacer made by Milk, I think I will have to modify it as I don't get it... for me I will send it to a modder who can machine a proper spacer and call it a day!
You know I have no problem with the 2813 and the cartel DW for the Ruby dial, I think they line up pretty well!
It's pretty cheap and trouble free at this point, it's better than a dozen of DWO tryouts anyway me thinks

 

[p0pperini]

Hahaha! I tried the spacer made by Milk, I think I will have to modify it as I don't get it... for me I will send it to a modder who can machine a proper spacer and call it a day!
You know I have no problem with the 2813 and the cartel DW for the Ruby dial, I think they line up pretty well!
It's pretty cheap and trouble free at this point, it's better than a dozen of DWO tryouts anyway me thinks

You may well be right. Watch this space as my predictions about my own journey come to pass...

I've now bought, from tripdog, a 2879 ETA movement that needs a hairspring and a 2873 movement with a donor hairspring. I need to try and make one good one. So I'm in for the long learning haul on this one, but already thinking it sounds too much of an effort...

Here's the instructions from trip:

"You will need a DWO, but not the date wheel itself, best place - because choice is limited for open 6 & 9 DWs - is Raffles Dials, which is the seller Riyi on eBay.

The dial has had the feet removed, so you'll need to glue the movement to a movement ring, dial dots are complicated when using GMT movements as the central 24 hour wheel takes up a lot of space on the top of the dial.

You can get a movement ring from Raffles Time - also called Raffles Time on eBay. You need a ring with a 26 mm inner diameter, and an outer diameter of 28.3 mm - same as the inner diam' of the case where the movement sits (height wise). I think the closest to that available is 29mm outer diam', so you need to sand/file about 0.7 - 0.8 mm off the outer edge - it's easy as they are made of aluminium, even though they are brass coloured.

The stems on these 2879 movements are Tap 10, you need a Tap 9 for a Rolex crown - any Tap 9 28** calibre stem will fit the movement - 2824, 2836 etc."

Oooooookay....

 

[yodog]

You will be in for a surprise when you decide to try and install a new hairspring onto a balance staff... lol

 

[yodog]

Also to anyone using a dg3804 in these cases - it will be tricky to mount one of the movement tabs, because the far movement tab hole is right in front of the cutout for these cases. You need to fashion a new tab and be able to grab the lip inside the case.

 

[chubbychaser911]

Why do I see so many people recommending dial dots or glue for re-purposing a dial?

Then I see other people complaining that dial dots and glue can fail at some point?

I did find this tutorial for moving dial feet. The dial feet replacements have these large bases taht give adequate surface for epoxy. Is there a major downside to this?

https://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?/topic/129918-changing-dial-feet-location-quick-tutorial/

 

[p0pperini]

You will be in for a surprise when you decide to try and install a new hairspring onto a balance staff... lol

Also to anyone using a dg3804 in these cases - it will be tricky to mount one of the movement tabs, because the far movement tab hole is right in front of the cutout for these cases. You need to fashion a new tab and be able to grab the lip inside the case.

Indeed yodog, I fully appreciate I may be biting off massively more than I can chew. I will probably (almost certainly) need to get a watchsmith to do the work, or quietly retire the parts to the back of a parts drawer and move on.

Thanks for dropping by, it's great to get eyes cast over the project by experienced hands around here. Would you mind sharing your thoughts on what the best movement/components combo would be for the case?

And thanks again for the lovely bezel I received as part of my prize.

chubbychaser911 I've got those dial feet and was going to look at whether they'll work with this dial/movement combo. The flat base on the feet that glue to the dial add another layer of potential complication (adding height, and/or - as I found when using them - fouling something on the movement), but I have seen that they can work.

 

[yodog]

I only use 2836GMT movements in these builds - more reliable, less prone to breakage, just an overall cleaner build. The movement screw locations are in the correct places. You can get a movement ring from Yuki to fit the 2836 perfectly into the case (I use custom machined ones so cheaper than $50)

What I do with the dial is cutting off the feet, sanding the nubs flat, and then using a custom machined dial spacer with the correct height. I don't use glue for the dial - I use dial dots around the edge of the spacer to affix the dial because it gives me more flexibility and won't come off over time like glue sometimes does. my dial spacers give just the perfect enough clearance between date wheel and underside of dial as to not cause date advancement issues or GMT wheel issues.

 

[manodeoro]

chubbychaser911 I've got those dial feet and was going to look at whether they'll work with this dial/movement combo. The flat base on the feet that glue to the dial add another layer of potential complication (adding height, and/or - as I found when using them - fouling something on the movement), but I have seen that they can work.

Using those dial feet you add a layer about the same thickness of a dial spacer so, depending on the movement you use, it will be OK as long as you remove the dial spacer.
If your dial is not steady enough, with only 2 posts, you can glue 2 other same dials feet and cut the feet (leaving only the bases).

 

[p0pperini]

I only use 2836GMT movements in these builds - more reliable, less prone to breakage, just an overall cleaner build. The movement screw locations are in the correct places. You can get a movement ring from Yuki to fit the 2836 perfectly into the case (I use custom machined ones so cheaper than $50)

What I do with the dial is cutting off the feet, sanding the nubs flat, and then using a custom machined dial spacer with the correct height. I don't use glue for the dial - I use dial dots around the edge of the spacer to affix the dial because it gives me more flexibility and won't come off over time like glue sometimes does. my dial spacers give just the perfect enough clearance between date wheel and underside of dial as to not cause date advancement issues or GMT wheel issues.

Thanks for the detailed summary sir, much appreciated - it’s the build advice for this project that I’ll now be following!

I’ll also be seeing if I can incorporate the dial feet into the build too, in place of the spacer, as manodeoro described.

 

[chubbychaser911]

When you say 2836 movements do you mean the hangzhou 6460? Or do you source a 2836 and add on the Chinese GMT module? And the 2836 is 28.8k and not 21.6k so the second sweep is a bit inaccurate.

 

[chubbychaser911]

But if it’s ultimately more reliable and easier to mount then that makes sense.

 

[p0pperini]

But if it’s ultimately more reliable and easier to mount then that makes sense.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking - especially the "easier to mount" bit.

BTW, this thread that I rediscovered tonight has some useful information.

 

[Redheart]

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking - especially the "easier to mount" bit.

BTW, this thread that I rediscovered tonight has some useful information.

very nice post, thanks man for sharing it with us.
Apparently what I have been using in my BP is the DG3804, not the 2813...

I think I will go with the 2836 for this case, and use Milk spacer with that! Please make it fit oh Lord!

 

[Redheart]

Also to anyone using a dg3804 in these cases - it will be tricky to mount one of the movement tabs, because the far movement tab hole is right in front of the cutout for these cases. You need to fashion a new tab and be able to grab the lip inside the case.

Thanks for the intel Yodog ;p
Milk is also using the 2836 in his builds, he never used DG3804 apparently, and cannot make a ring for me thus sending me a 2836 one. Thanks to him!

 

[SuperTopGun]

I will go with a dg3804 movement, it will build a personalized ring for me tripdog

 

[Solution6]

Why do I see so many people recommending dial dots or glue for re-purposing a dial?

Then I see other people complaining that dial dots and glue can fail at some point?

I did find this tutorial for moving dial feet. The dial feet replacements have these large bases taht give adequate surface for epoxy. Is there a major downside to this?

https://www.rwg.bz/board/index.php?/...uick-tutorial/

I'm currently working on that method, just need to shave the dial spacer a bit, to accommodate the extra height added by the platform of the dial foot. Can get a box of assorted feet like that from cousins.uk. Mounting a gen spec dial to a DG. Didn't go for dial dots due to the spacer.