Project "RWI Raffle Win"... a 1675 Build

[p0pperini]

Today, some more information, following discussions with the folk behind my raffle-won case set.

In order to get the right sized dial, I double-checked with milk that the case dimensions are all as per gen. He sent me this technical drawing of the case:

Which is helpful. And then when I spoke to tripdog about sourcing a dial, he said, "The 1675 dials are 27.3mm, the dial aperture in the Milk case is 27.55, so it's slightly too large - should 27.4mm."

But all this is music to my ears - because I tend to hear numbers as musical notes, and these ones are all tinkly and melodic. But also because I'm a huge fan of "Yeah, that's close enough" when it comes to making things to fit in holes. So I'm getting a 28.5 mm dial that's got the right date window position for an ETA 2879 movement, and I'll shave it down to fit nice and snug - using my Dremel as a makeshift lathe.

As well as reminding me about that handy hint for fitting your dial to a Dremel to sand it to size, trip also had some more useful info which I'm adding here for future generations to benefit from (and so it's all in one place and I don't forget about it myself...)

"You probably want a low beat ETA for this build, which complicates things a little. You need a stem height of around 2.1 - 2.4 mm and you need to be able to add the GMT module to it. The ETA 2879 fits the bill - low beat, will accept the GMT module.

2879s can be found on eBay, amongst other places, prices are around $150 - $200.

For the GMT module you need a Hangzhou GMT movement, available from Helenarou for about $140.

This means your finished low beat Swiss ETA with GMT will end up costing about $300.

You could of course just use the Hangzhou GMT, which is a clone of the 2836 + a GMT module, or if you could find a Swiss 2836 for cheap, you could swap the GMT module onto that - but obviously this and the Hangzhou/2836 movement is going to be high beat - 1675's are low beat.

Any gen spec Cartel vintage Rolex dial will serve as a base for the decal dial.

I'd look at Raffles Time for hands - good choice, reasonable prices."​

So I'm following trip's advice, and going for the low beat 2879.

 

[p0pperini]

Also, while I'm here - can anyone post actual links to the specific correct hands on Raffle's eBay store. There's some options, and I'm guaranteed to pick the wrong ones if left to my own devices...

I'm looking for hands that will give the look of the GMT I posted on the first page, and which fit the stem sizes on a 2879 movement..

 

[chubbychaser911]

So do the dials from helenarou expect the date position to be eta positioned or are they made with the idea that there’s a date wheel overlay to correct the position to Rolex date wheel? Also where would we source a proper date wheel overlay?

 

[p0pperini]

So do the dials from helenarou expect the date position to be eta positioned or are they made with the idea that there’s a date wheel overlay to correct the position to Rolex date wheel? Also where would we source a proper date wheel overlay?

Very good questions - to which I have no answer chubbychaser.

My dial is coming from tripdog - a 28.5 mm dial with the correct date window position for the movement (which he is also supplying - but in need of additional parts).

I asked Helenrou for a quote and in what format they need the artwork if they're printing the dial - and have those answers. But at the time I was quoting "ETA 2836 GMT" to them as the movement it was to fit. The answers to my questions were:

"You can send me your text and logo by PDF / Jepg, but prefer Ai file ( black color text and logo in white background)

I'll mock it on dial for you to approve before printing

Custom printing set up will charge by dial factory $130 + $ 49 dial + register shipping"

 

[chubbychaser911]

So I just contacted Ruby and all of her/his dials are made to fit the Rolex caliber and feet have to be repositioned. So Those are going to require a DWO.

Would be interested in what you find out about the date window position. I'm sure that trip dog would only supply a dial with correct date wheel position.

Very good questions - to which I have no answer chubbychaser.

My dial is coming from tripdog - a 28.5 mm dial with the correct date window position for the movement (which he is also supplying - but in need of additional parts).

I asked Helenrou for a quote and in what format they need the artwork if they're printing the dial - and have those answers. But at the time I was quoting "ETA 2836 GMT" to them as the movement it was to fit. The answers to my questions were:

"You can send me your text and logo by PDF / Jepg, but prefer Ai file ( black color text and logo in white background)

I'll mock it on dial for you to approve before printing

Custom printing set up will charge by dial factory $130 + $ 49 dial + register shipping"

 

[chubbychaser911]

Furthermore, on Ruby's site it says that their GMT dials are not luminous. So I guess that means that the dial has to have lame applied?

 

[p0pperini]

I'm sure that trip dog would only supply a dial with correct date wheel position.

Yes he is - which is exactly what I said in my post that you quoted.

To be period-accurate, these dials don’t have any lume glow - they would have lost their glow years ago. So it’s down to you to decide if you want the lume to glow - if so, you’d need to re-lume it.

 

[chubbychaser911]

Sorry I didn’t read you correctly. And that’s interesting about the lack of glow. Shit man I love an accurate rep but I’d really like for it to glow. I have much to learn.

 

[p0pperini]

Sorry I didn’t read you correctly. And that’s interesting about the lack of glow. Shit man I love an accurate rep but I’d really like for it to glow. I have much to learn.

No problem, I guessed you hadn't quite followed what I said about the dial. And sure, lume is just a matter of personal choice - a lot of the guys here lume their vintage watches so they glow. You can mix paint in with the luminous pigment to achieve whatever kind of vintage lume colour you prefer, too.

I'm sure you could find someone on the forum who would relume your dial with fresh glowy lume if you asked around.

I'm going to have to try doing it myself - and it's not something I'm feeling very confident about... still, it's all part of the fun!

 

[chubbychaser911]

Yeah I’m worried about reluming it because the dial isn’t cheap. I think it’s about 200

 

[Redheart]

I just measured the dial openning on my case and it is 26.9mm, so a gen dial at 27.3mm will be perfect for this case. I don't understand your choice for an oversize dial?
Also I measured the dial lip, and it is just shy of 27.5mm, more like 27.45mm on mine...
The Ruby dial are 27.3mm but I would say with the lacquer it's more like 27.35mm

I still haven't put mine in, but I think the Ruby dials are the perfect candidate for this case, cause they are gen spec'd.

If the dial lip is 27.5mm for a 27.3mm dial, you will have room for centering the dial of 0.1mm on each side, it's within spec I would think so.

 

[chubbychaser911]

So what movement spacer should be used? I am assuming that these cases have quality control and don’t vary much from case to case.

 

[chubbychaser911]

I am going to use the low beat ETA that was recommended.

 

[SuperTopGun]

I will use a Dg3804

 

[Redheart]

I will use 2813 too, that's the dg3804 I believe. Anyway that is what came in the BP 1675 I firstly build.
Milk made a 2836 movement ring for me, and if I am lucky enough the 2813 will accept it.

Here are hands from Gary that I think looks nice :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hands-ETA-2...72.m2749.l2649

I am building an all red GMT on this one, will go nicely with the fuchsia insert and the chapter gilt dial hehe!

One should check if the 2879 accepts 2824/2836 hands though...
Originally I thought all ETA 28XX were hands compatible, but I am not sure anymore cause the 2813 are not compatible... But I think that is not even an ETA clone but a Chinese original... Anyway I am too novice here hehe.

 

[Redheart]

About the measurements :

I gave you the readings from my metal calliper, it's not the cheap digital one, but a mechanical 0.01mm precision calliper... But it is what it is, my reading so it may vary of course.

 

[chubbychaser911]

Thanks for the heads up about different ETA movements needing different hands. I'll have to go search for what the pinion sizes are for the 2879.

 

[chubbychaser911]

Oh shit. I just thought about this. If the Vietnam dial is Rolex spec will the hands hole be the right size for the ETA movement?

 

[Fulcanelli]

Great thread. You’ve inspired me to take on my own journey. What date wheel will you use?

 

[Redheart]

Redheart Beautiful job on the pcg mate. They look awesome. This is my plan for my '62 exclamation point 1675 I have a custom Bart Cordell gilt print dial in a model bp case . My build desereves better and and have considered for months picking up a vietnam case to finish my build but ruby didnt have the correct date stamp that I wanted and the price was becoming difficult to justify.

Milks case sets are perfect for this. meaty lugs and a blank slate so that I can send it over to JMB for proper year appropriate engravings.

I think I will be attempting for lugs like this on mine.



Congrats n0bby on the win!! Look fwd to seeing progress on your build.

This is my 1675 currently and will create my own thread once I have received a case set started work on it.

Thanks mate! And good choice, the Cornico is nice! and with Milk's case you will have plenty of meat to replicate the gen 1675 specimen of your dream! Keep us informed