Absolutely. Along with molecular analysisDid you request UV fluorescence test and XRF analysis of the insert?
Absolutely. Along with molecular analysisDid you request UV fluorescence test and XRF analysis of the insert?
hi, sorry, I'm also waiting to receive QC photos, as it's my first purchase, can you tell me what I should pay attention to? (I got a GMT MASTER II sprite and a black subamariner 41)Did you request UV fluorescence test and XRF analysis of the insert?
Look at the pictures and decide if it's acceptable to you. That's all that matters.hi, sorry, I'm also waiting to receive QC photos, as it's my first purchase, can you tell me what I should pay attention to? (I got a GMT MASTER II sprite and a black subamariner 41)
TanksGuarda le foto e decidi se per te è accettabile. Questo è tutto ciò che conta.
It would be interesting to see if they had the same weight/mass. They look amazing under fluorescent light. Do they seem a bit pale under some lighting to you?Nope they are the same!
I will try to get some more info on the weight but should be the same. Not pale, the v3 batch looks really great and the rehaut apears to be a little bit better. I’ve noticed that the new L6V6 batches have fixed the ”steel inox” problem. Now it’s steelinox as it should be (on the clasp).It would be interesting to see if they had the same weight/mass. They look amazing under fluorescent light. Do they seem a bit pale under some lighting to you?
From what I know, according to the TD it is the clasps of the jubilee bracelets that have the defect of the detached steelinox writing, while the oyster ones are perfect as they should be, the jubilee ones have the code f6u, the oyster ones have 1nqI will try to get some more info on the weight but should be the same. Not pale, the v3 batch looks really great and the rehaut apears to be a little bit better. I’ve noticed that the new L6V6 batches have fixed the ”steel inox” problem. Now it’s steelinox as it should be (on the clasp).
Hi there, sometimes it’s really hard to know what to look for, I have seen other members QC pics and even after they ask the question I can’t see the issue. 1st rule for me is to take your time, it’s so easy to rush the process but in reality it’s one of the best parts of the ride! Obviously check for anything glaring ie Numbers/indicies crooked or not in line, check the rehaut alignment ( if it’s the sub) left side R on the 5min marker, right side X on the marker. Check the Sel gaps top and bottom they should be tight no gaps to see throug. If you’ve bought top tier reps you shouldn’t have to much to worry about, but as I say, take your time and as eBoy says just chill out a bit it’s not a $20,000 watch! If it looks good to you buy it… simples. And one last thing try not to be too picky and reject for silly reasons, that will upset your TD, if you do see a problem take a pick post it up and ask your question, I’m sure there will be many here who will comment, good and bad!hi, sorry, I'm also waiting to receive QC photos, as it's my first purchase, can you tell me what I should pay attention to? (I got a GMT MASTER II sprite and a black subamariner 41)
Mine jubilee is good.From what I know, according to the TD it is the clasps of the jubilee bracelets that have the defect of the detached steelinox writing, while the oyster ones are perfect as they should be, the jubilee ones have the code f6u, the oyster ones have 1nq
Here’s a V3 new batch with fixed steelinox on jubilee.From what I know, according to the TD it is the clasps of the jubilee bracelets that have the defect of the detached steelinox writing, while the oyster ones are perfect as they should be, the jubilee ones have the code f6u, the oyster ones have 1nq
I have my TD measure the insert thickness with a caliper measuring tool
I have my TD measure how many atoms thick the bezel insert is using scanning tunnelling microscopy, as well as white light interferometry to determine the topography and roughness of the bezel's surface
first of all thanks for replying, oh god with all these acronyms I don't understand much. what is the rehaut? and SEL spaces? I purchased VSF for submariner and CLEAN for GMT sprite as I had read that they are the best factoriesHi there, sometimes it’s really hard to know what to look for, I have seen other members QC pics and even after they ask the question I can’t see the issue. 1st rule for me is to take your time, it’s so easy to rush the process but in reality it’s one of the best parts of the ride! Obviously check for anything glaring ie Numbers/indicies crooked or not in line, check the rehaut alignment ( if it’s the sub) left side R on the 5min marker, right side X on the marker. Check the Sel gaps top and bottom they should be tight no gaps to see throug. If you’ve bought top tier reps you shouldn’t have to much to worry about, but as I say, take your time and as eBoy says just chill out a bit it’s not a $20,000 watch! If it looks good to you buy it… simples. And one last thing try not to be too picky and reject for silly reasons, that will upset your TD, if you do see a problem take a pick post it up and ask your question, I’m sure there will be many here who will comment, good and bad!
Oh boy...first of all thanks for replying, oh god with all these acronyms I don't understand much. what is the rehaut? and SEL spaces? I purchased VSF for submariner and CLEAN for GMT sprite as I had read that they are the best factories
Who needs google when you can use RWI as your own personal help desk assistant?I am fuckin' certain that most all of the noobies don't get Google until / if they get to 100 post count