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newframe

You're Saying I Can Sell?
7/3/24
35
5
8
Did you request UV fluorescence test and XRF analysis of the insert?
hi, sorry, I'm also waiting to receive QC photos, as it's my first purchase, can you tell me what I should pay attention to? (I got a GMT MASTER II sprite and a black subamariner 41)
 

Wobbufett

You're Saying I Can Sell?
Certified
17/1/24
56
41
18
It would be interesting to see if they had the same weight/mass. They look amazing under fluorescent light. Do they seem a bit pale under some lighting to you?
I will try to get some more info on the weight but should be the same. Not pale, the v3 batch looks really great and the rehaut apears to be a little bit better. I’ve noticed that the new L6V6 batches have fixed the ”steel inox” problem. Now it’s steelinox as it should be (on the clasp).
 

DJTony82

House Music All Night Loooong!
Certified
24/5/21
215
121
43
EU
I will try to get some more info on the weight but should be the same. Not pale, the v3 batch looks really great and the rehaut apears to be a little bit better. I’ve noticed that the new L6V6 batches have fixed the ”steel inox” problem. Now it’s steelinox as it should be (on the clasp).
From what I know, according to the TD it is the clasps of the jubilee bracelets that have the defect of the detached steelinox writing, while the oyster ones are perfect as they should be, the jubilee ones have the code f6u, the oyster ones have 1nq
 

Jackster

I'm Pretty Popular
Supporter
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8/1/17
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Paradise! (SE Qld)
hi, sorry, I'm also waiting to receive QC photos, as it's my first purchase, can you tell me what I should pay attention to? (I got a GMT MASTER II sprite and a black subamariner 41)
Hi there, sometimes it’s really hard to know what to look for, I have seen other members QC pics and even after they ask the question I can’t see the issue. 1st rule for me is to take your time, it’s so easy to rush the process but in reality it’s one of the best parts of the ride! Obviously check for anything glaring ie Numbers/indicies crooked or not in line, check the rehaut alignment ( if it’s the sub) left side R on the 5min marker, right side X on the marker. Check the Sel gaps top and bottom they should be tight no gaps to see throug. If you’ve bought top tier reps you shouldn’t have to much to worry about, but as I say, take your time and as eBoy says just chill out a bit it’s not a $20,000 watch! If it looks good to you buy it… simples. And one last thing try not to be too picky and reject for silly reasons, that will upset your TD, if you do see a problem take a pick post it up and ask your question, I’m sure there will be many here who will comment, good and bad!
 
Last edited:

FRANCKD

I’m Groot
31/3/12
340
180
43
Eu
From what I know, according to the TD it is the clasps of the jubilee bracelets that have the defect of the detached steelinox writing, while the oyster ones are perfect as they should be, the jubilee ones have the code f6u, the oyster ones have 1nq
Mine jubilee is good.
 

Wobbufett

You're Saying I Can Sell?
Certified
17/1/24
56
41
18
From what I know, according to the TD it is the clasps of the jubilee bracelets that have the defect of the detached steelinox writing, while the oyster ones are perfect as they should be, the jubilee ones have the code f6u, the oyster ones have 1nq
Here’s a V3 new batch with fixed steelinox on jubilee.
 

KGZ

Renowned Member
Patron
Certified
28/9/22
642
1,488
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Are we really discussing a slight misprint on a minuscule engraving that is not even visible when the watch is worn???

Newsflash: there are countless instances of misprints on gen rolex clasps!
 

KruisingKhaos95

Chairman of Daytonas Anonymous (got any?)
Staff member
Moderator Sales
Certified
20/9/21
4,702
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Spion Kop - The Scouse Republic
I have my TD measure the insert thickness with a caliper measuring tool

I have my TD measure how many atoms thick the bezel insert is using scanning tunnelling microscopy, as well as white light interferometry to determine the topography and roughness of the bezel's surface
 

Me10_UK

Don't stop learning
31/1/24
123
329
63
land of the brave
I have my TD measure how many atoms thick the bezel insert is using scanning tunnelling microscopy, as well as white light interferometry to determine the topography and roughness of the bezel's surface

OMG, I do exactly the same....

Perhaps I'd be better iff going to an optician first ....

Ultimately, as long as it looks good when you see it, and you are happy, that should work.

The alt is to get a GEN......
 

newframe

You're Saying I Can Sell?
7/3/24
35
5
8
Hi there, sometimes it’s really hard to know what to look for, I have seen other members QC pics and even after they ask the question I can’t see the issue. 1st rule for me is to take your time, it’s so easy to rush the process but in reality it’s one of the best parts of the ride! Obviously check for anything glaring ie Numbers/indicies crooked or not in line, check the rehaut alignment ( if it’s the sub) left side R on the 5min marker, right side X on the marker. Check the Sel gaps top and bottom they should be tight no gaps to see throug. If you’ve bought top tier reps you shouldn’t have to much to worry about, but as I say, take your time and as eBoy says just chill out a bit it’s not a $20,000 watch! If it looks good to you buy it… simples. And one last thing try not to be too picky and reject for silly reasons, that will upset your TD, if you do see a problem take a pick post it up and ask your question, I’m sure there will be many here who will comment, good and bad!
first of all thanks for replying, oh god with all these acronyms I don't understand much. what is the rehaut? and SEL spaces? I purchased VSF for submariner and CLEAN for GMT sprite as I had read that they are the best factories