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NOOB V3 116500LN announced! Whats new?

Bobi01

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2/2/19
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Hello guys,it has been almost 2 years since 4130 clone been released (if im correct) and what experience do you have with it? honestly if everything works like when the clock was new, do you have some problems with movement, does the watch lose precision from time to time, does everyone have a stopwatch right and if you think movement is reliable overral,and does it need instant service or it can run well without problems with no service... would love to hear experiences so thanks in advance
 
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Fab87pz

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2/8/18
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Hello guys,it has been almost 2 years since 4130 clone been released (if im correct) and what experience do you have with it? honestly if everything works like when the clock was new, do you have some problems with movement, does the watch lose precision from time to time, does everyone have a stopwatch right and if you think movement is reliable overral,and does it need instant service or it can run well without problems with no service... would love to hear experiences so thanks in advance

Well I am having my Noob 4130 116520 since October 2018 and I can tell you that accuracy is about - 5 s/d and I have never had any problem so far. And when I asked my modder (that is a well known one on this forum) 3 months ago if it needed a service he said that for now it's not necessary. I would say a very reliable movement. Anyway, a good service from a good watch Smith can only make it better
 
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M Scott

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So we can say that 116500 with black dial have good subdials again.. Good to know

The thickness is finally correct if you are lucky and get the right one, BUT the silver sub-dials are still much too shinny.
 
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Digital.

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I’ve seen loads of these straight from the factory, they're never particularly dirty. However, there’s no consistency with how they’re being lubricated, some are bone dry others soaked with oil, usual story with Chinese movements. I’ve removed and inspected end stones that have a perfect amount of oil on (no idea what oil that is though), the next one will have no lubricant. When servicing make sure your watchmaker is removing the end stones, cleaning and oiling them. The springs used can be difficult to replace, It is a task that requires a certain amount of skill but this is what you’re paying your money for.

As far as parts are concerned no major issues, there’s not a specific part that needs changing across the board. Had a few issues with pallet forks falling to bits and hand tubes failing but that’s a different maker. Overall, material quality is pretty good for a rep movement.
 
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Bobi01

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I’ve seen loads of these straight from the factory, they're never particularly dirty. However, there’s no consistency with how they’re being lubricated, some are bone dry others soaked with oil, usual story with Chinese movements. I’ve removed and inspected end stones that have a perfect amount of oil on (no idea what oil that is though), the next one will have no lubricant. When servicing make sure your watchmaker is removing the end stones, cleaning and oiling them. The springs used can be difficult to replace, It is a task that requires a certain amount of skill but this is what you’re paying your money for.

As far as parts are concerned no major issues, there’s not a specific part that needs changing across the board. Had a few issues with pallet forks falling to bits and hand tubes failing but that’s a different maker. Overall, material quality is pretty good for a rep movement.

Oh thats a lot of help mate thanks,,honestly im choosing between noob daytona and hulk zzf with vr 3135 movement,dont know if you saw that movement and do you have expirience with it so far but do you know which movement is more reliable between this two?
Thanks mate again
 

srhoque

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The thickness is finally correct if you are lucky and get the right one, BUT the silver sub-dials are still much too shinny.

+1. Just got one with correct sub dial thickness but in person the subdials are ery shiny with too much sunburst. I changed it with ARF dial.
 
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eenkm

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24/8/18
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Hello all. hope you all are doing well !


I always think my watch (right hand side of the picture) has a thin subdial….maybe this is a V1 ARF ? I am thinking to get a Noob V3 if the V3 dial is better than mine...

Can someone please tell me my ARF is V1 or V2?

Your help would be highly appreciated! Stay well and healthy!

Kevin
8NymS.jpg
 
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Mark1937

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Hello all. hope you all are doing well !


I always think my watch (right hand side of the picture) has a thin subdial….maybe this is a V1 ARF ? I am thinking to get a Noob V3 if the V3 dial is better than mine...
Can someone please tell me my ARF is V1 or V2?


Your help would be highly appreciated! Stay well and healthy!

Kevin
8NymS.jpg

There are some slightly thinner V2 like yours and other V2 that are exactly like gen. I assure you that with photos it is very difficult to understand, also because the edge of the ARF counters is like the gen and tends to have deceptive light reflections. As for Noob, most V3 have slightly thicker counters of the gen, the Daytona writing is too orange and the print and the dial indices are less beautiful than ARF. Overall, ARF seems more gen like. From the photos you have published I would say that it is the ARF V2 dial with slightly thinner counters, but it would take more photos to see better
 
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eenkm

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Thank you for your very informative reply Marco1937, I really appreciate that!

This is another picture of my ARF, hope it can provide more info to determine this is a V1 or a "thinner V2"

Thank you!

Kevin

8Sn7Y.jpg
 

Mark1937

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Thank you for your very informative reply Marco1937, I really appreciate that!

This is another picture of my ARF, hope it can provide more info to determine this is a V1 or a "thinner V2"

Thank you!

Kevin

Maybe this picture can help you. (On the left is my Noob + ARF dial and bracelet + CF bezel)
 

eenkm

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Thank you again Marco! I love this comparison picture.

Also, I saw your 116500 from another post , it is amazing!! I wish I have the same one

I think I need a V2 FAT dial !!
 

srhoque

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Thank you for your very informative reply Marco1937, I really appreciate that!

This is another picture of my ARF, hope it can provide more info to determine this is a V1 or a "thinner V2"

Thank you!

Kevin

The perceived thickness of the sub dials is heavily influenced by lighting conditions/shine and angle. I have both v2 (thin and newer thicker sub dial). If I just do a quick glance at them (the way you look at the watch to see time), it is hard for me to judge any difference in sub dial thickness. You have gotten a great looking ARF dial, coronet seems centered - you will grow to like it :D
 
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Mark1937

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The perceived thickness of the sub dials is heavily influenced by lighting conditions/shine and angle. I have both v2 (thin and newer thicker sub dial). If I just do a quick glance at them (they way yo look at the watch to see time), it is hard for me to judge any difference in sub dial thickness. You have gotten a great looking ARF dial, coronet seems centered - you will grow to like it :D

+1
 

eenkm

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I love this community, Thank you both of you.

Hope you and your family stay well and healthy!

Kevin
 

Digital.

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The batch of ARF dials with the thicker/correct sized subs has finished so we won’t see them for a while. They’re back to using the dial with the thinner subs.