Yes, right now they’re exclusive to Clean. You might be able to get one through a TD if you ask nicely and the TD has a good relationship with Clean.
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New Released Clean 3285 Movement(from Dandong) Compared With GEN and Shanghai 3285 Movement
- Thread starter CTime
- Start date
I've got the same rate of +9s/d but with an amplitude of 304* and a beat error of 0.2ms on my new GMT2 from new AR+F movement VR3285 72hours. So you got a little sharper movement on your DD3285 "Pepsi" GMT, or which amplitude is better? the one closer to 0* or further away from 0*? I read somewhere that Rolex do not like more than 280° - I think it was because, if you run at higher amplitudes, you get a bigger drop after 24 hours. At 270-280° the idea is that a lower drop over 24 hours gives better timekeeping.Here’s my timegraph of DD3285 QC, amplitude is not great, is this caused by bad mainspring? I’m not a genius on movements but does this mean it has lower power reserve?
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My gen sub has 240 dial up. i dont give a wet fart. its accurate and PR works
- 10/3/19
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How things are going?
Basically I always buy watches with very basic complications, mostly even with no date, as I want to spare me the trouble messing around, or beg my Rep watchmaker to fiddle with another rep.
My ARF Explorer needed some repairs and the problem is still not solved.
I do have an eye on the GMT but am worried. Is it worth to face the risks now?
How are the V3 versions (clean) are different?
Basically I always buy watches with very basic complications, mostly even with no date, as I want to spare me the trouble messing around, or beg my Rep watchmaker to fiddle with another rep.
My ARF Explorer needed some repairs and the problem is still not solved.
I do have an eye on the GMT but am worried. Is it worth to face the risks now?
How are the V3 versions (clean) are different?
- 27/5/22
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Different philosophies. Some service immediately upon receipt. Others wait until something is wrong. Others wait for normal intervals ranging from 3-5 years.
I suggest within the first 12-18 months if it’s a watch you plan on keeping and it has a movement that has a non-zero chance of being hard to get parts for in the future (ie if it’s powered by an eta clone 2824 or similar, there will be no problem getting parts in the future, but an sh3285 may not have spare parts available in 5-10 years). Getting a watch serviced early ensures there’s oil where it’s supposed to be to minimize wear on the moving parts. Then I’d say service a movement ever 5-10 years after that. Every 5 years if it’s a daily driver or if you keep it on a winder — the motion of parts rubbing and sliding will break down the oils. Every 10 years if the watch is a drawer queen — over a long enough period the oils and grease will oxidize and need to be cleaned away and new lubrication applied.
surREPtitious
Getting To Know The Place
Countess Koscowicz
Active Member
Clean with its dd uses click in dials - which is proper solution for ref 126710 and works interchangeably with gen dials, while ARF with sh still uses two feet dials used in previous reference 116710, no easy dial swap if interested
Yeah. But the "press on" dials from CF and Gen fit the ARF with SH movement no problem. But not reverse.
- 12/3/18
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Dials with feet can have the feet clipped, stumps sanded smooth and then be epoxied onto the date plate. Three or four 2 - 3mm blobs of 30 min slow cure epoxy placed in open spaces on the date plate will anchor a dial quite well.
It's a little more work to undo but not difficult. The cured epoxy will scrape away easily and cleanly with a razor blade, then just wipe or rinse with alcohol. Ofc the date plate should be removed and DW separated before scraping and cleaning so glue shards don't get into the movement.
This works fine when the need arises. I've done it probably 8 - 10 times and prefer it to dial dots as it adds no real extra spacing and the dial doesn't shift around at all. Just make sure you get the dial centered and aligned, haha. Otherwise you get to do it again.
It's a little more work to undo but not difficult. The cured epoxy will scrape away easily and cleanly with a razor blade, then just wipe or rinse with alcohol. Ofc the date plate should be removed and DW separated before scraping and cleaning so glue shards don't get into the movement.
This works fine when the need arises. I've done it probably 8 - 10 times and prefer it to dial dots as it adds no real extra spacing and the dial doesn't shift around at all. Just make sure you get the dial centered and aligned, haha. Otherwise you get to do it again.
- 12/3/18
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3285 is a base 3235 movement so the two gen parts are the same.
If you want to try this, your best chances for success will come from using the same factory parts, DD with DD/VS, SH with SH/VR. Those two factories' hairsprings are coiled in opposite directions so they are not interchangeable. Pay attention to that.
Another option to fix an ailing 3235 movement is to replace the balance wheel assembly, assuming the bridge is OK. This is not that difficult, though certainly not a beginner level task.
You just have to brush on some acetone (Goof off) to the adhesive anchoring the hairspring to the stud (point A), then slide the hairspring out of the regulator arm slot (point B). Insert the new hairspring in and anchor the end to the stud with a drop of epoxy.
3235 balance assembly is not expensive
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Thank you for reply @KJ2020 . Basically my plan is to replace rep parts with genuine: balance wheel + balance bridge + escape wheel and pallet fork. By base is 3235 movement from Clean factory and sh3235 (newer one with claimed 70h power reserve). Meanwhile I ordered second balance wheel 3235 so I can make comparison with 3285 and share photos.