I let myself be driven by the positive energy and have sent another better version to @dpd3672 . Now the typography should be right.
-
Tired of adverts on RWI? - Subscribe by clicking HERE and PMing Trailboss for instructions and they will magically go away!
If you want someone done right... (Engraving content)
- Thread starter newest dude on the forum
- Start date
CAD file modified with new (better) art from @matzemedia. I still think the letters might not translate well to a drag engraver, since it does best with thin lines and the Tudor caseback letters are "thick," for want of a better word, but I'm very curious to see how they turn out.
I still suspect these letters would look better if done with a CNC or even saltwater etching, but the CAD files should be fairly easily adaptable to either of those methods.
www.tinkercad.com
I still suspect these letters would look better if done with a CNC or even saltwater etching, but the CAD files should be fairly easily adaptable to either of those methods.
3D design Tudor Case Back - Tinkercad
3D design Tudor Case Back created by David Patterson with Tinkercad
Last edited:
I have a Rolex sub caseback that needs to be machined flat before the Tudor markings could be engraved. If anyone is able to do that could you PM me!
Hi mates! Didn't have much time to execute our achievements of last weekend, but time enough to test a few provisorily templates! The following pics show - in my opinion - a promising result (for now just on brass for presentation purposes)... My suggestions:
- reduce the depth of the fonts for correct engraving to 0,2 mm and their size to 1,2;
- the template was splitter, because of my printers limits;
The template was a quick printout on standard resin. As soon as we have a complete flawless design, I'll print it with a different & much harder material;
Nevertheless, I think the New Hermes/Gravograph is the right method for vintage casebacks...
@Daso3333 helps me a lot with his unbelievable CAD-skills & experience on a final version... also thanks to @dpd3672 for leading me into this direction.
I hope, the next weekend gives me enough time to take hands on my first caseback!
- reduce the depth of the fonts for correct engraving to 0,2 mm and their size to 1,2;
- the template was splitter, because of my printers limits;
The template was a quick printout on standard resin. As soon as we have a complete flawless design, I'll print it with a different & much harder material;
Nevertheless, I think the New Hermes/Gravograph is the right method for vintage casebacks...
@Daso3333 helps me a lot with his unbelievable CAD-skills & experience on a final version... also thanks to @dpd3672 for leading me into this direction.
I hope, the next weekend gives me enough time to take hands on my first caseback!
Looks great mate!Hi mates! Didn't have much time to execute our achievements of last weekend, but time enough to test a few provisorily templates! The following pics show - in my opinion - a promising result (for now just on brass for presentation purposes)... My suggestions:
- reduce the depth of the fonts for correct engraving to 0,2 mm and their size to 1,2;
- the template was splitter, because of my printers limits;
The template was a quick printout on standard resin. As soon as we have a complete flawless design, I'll print it with a different & much harder material;
Nevertheless, I think the New Hermes/Gravograph is the right method for vintage casebacks...
@Daso3333 helps me a lot with his unbelievable CAD-skills & experience on a final version... also thanks to @dpd3672 for leading me into this direction.
I hope, the next weekend gives me enough time to take hands on my first caseback!
This was done with an engraver that has a spindle? Or solely drag engraving?
Last edited:
@brekkvery nice result. The typo you used is not gen like. For the next try please use my last version.
That is true! Does anyone know a source for a flat caseback? Aliexpress?I have a Rolex sub caseback that needs to be machined flat before the Tudor markings could be engraved. If anyone is able to do that could you PM me!
- 5/9/24
- 64
- 136
- 33
I have a machine shop, but super busy with other projects and this would require some fixturing depending on the process. PM me and I'll see what I can do. You need to provide an image of your desired result. Most flats on modern casebacks are precision ground, not cnc milled. If you wanted to make my life easy, I could mill it flat, throw it on the grinder to give it effect, and let you do the finishing for the aging. If the caseback is not supposed to true flat, but have a slight concave arc, that would require turning and fixturing to hold it in a chuck. A pain in the ass to perform workholding on something so thin.I have a Rolex sub caseback that needs to be machined flat before the Tudor markings could be engraved. If anyone is able to do that could you PM me!
Last edited:
Here a gen image of the caseback. As far as I can see it is flat and polished. Once I've done this by using a lathe.
THX, @matzemedia! I saw your fonts too late as the jig was already in the printer! It was also more a tryout on size, depth & radius issues, as well as checking the capabilities of the Gravograph, than getting the gen result. But be aware, I'm already preparing the jig with your cool fonts
I would definitely "mill it flat, throw it on the grinder to give it effect, and let one do the finishing." Flattening it is certainly the easiest part, as I've done it successfully a few times by doing it by eye for the first 90%, and then using something in lieu of a vise to make sure it's stable for that last 10% to make it truly flat.
The problem I encountered the most was finding a caseback that can actually be flattened without losing too much stability. The average case back might be almost paper thin after flattening.
Only mentioning my experiences so y'all don't make the same mistakes I've already made. I don't know the best method, and I'm not recommending a specific one. But, don't overlook the final thickness after the fact. I have faith it can be done well with the right caseback and the knowledge on this thread. I'm confident to no end, but finding the right base caseback is necessary!
I can confirm you execution. After reading this thread I flatten a milk caseback and it almost ended in disaster. My first trie was using a lathe. As a result, the cutting tool bent the thinning material instead of removing it. Than I uses a file to grind it flat. The casback feels like a cola can and is just 0.5mm thick in the centre. Somehow you have to prevent it from bending when engraving. It is still a challenge!
I just measured my old crowns caseback and unfortunately it has the same problem. I was hoping since it was not engraved on the inside it would not be as thin. It is about 1.3 mm thick at the center of the caseback.
I do have a plan "B", I found a engraved 7016/7021 in my "random watch stuff" box and it fit the old crowns case. Looking at it I think it might be from a HR case I bought years ago. I am thinking it might be possible to remove the lip and have the same effect, on a caseback that was already engraved. This case is off getting the between the lugs engraving done so I cant measure it but will when it as back and post the results.
I do have a plan "B", I found a engraved 7016/7021 in my "random watch stuff" box and it fit the old crowns case. Looking at it I think it might be from a HR case I bought years ago. I am thinking it might be possible to remove the lip and have the same effect, on a caseback that was already engraved. This case is off getting the between the lugs engraving done so I cant measure it but will when it as back and post the results.
For all of you who are not able to use this super engraving machine, there is an alternate way to engrave the caseback (and other areas) by using the electric etching method. Therefor you need:
2. Cut the transfer film in the right size and put it at the metal. Follow your transfer film instruction carefully.
3.(Optional) repeat step 2 to be sure you have a thick layer of toner on your metal.
4. But the two electric cable to the +/- of your battery. Connect the + to the metal you like to etch. And the - connection goes to your q-tip.
5. Mix a spoon of salt with 50ml water and soak the q-tip in it. Be sure, the connector of your cable and the wadding is wet.
6. Now etch your metal by moving the wet Q-tip carefully over your toner transfer film. I left it for about 30-40 seconds each letter. Take care: the vapours produced are toxic. Best done outside.
7. Finally, use Aceton to remove the toner from the metal.
- 9V Battery
- 2x electric cable with clamp
- Q-tips
- laser printer
- toner transfer film
- salt water
2. Cut the transfer film in the right size and put it at the metal. Follow your transfer film instruction carefully.
3.(Optional) repeat step 2 to be sure you have a thick layer of toner on your metal.
4. But the two electric cable to the +/- of your battery. Connect the + to the metal you like to etch. And the - connection goes to your q-tip.
5. Mix a spoon of salt with 50ml water and soak the q-tip in it. Be sure, the connector of your cable and the wadding is wet.
6. Now etch your metal by moving the wet Q-tip carefully over your toner transfer film. I left it for about 30-40 seconds each letter. Take care: the vapours produced are toxic. Best done outside.
7. Finally, use Aceton to remove the toner from the metal.
I said a few posts up that I believe the saltwater etching might give more accurate results with a Tudor caseback, since the letters are much thicker than a drag engraver is capable of...you seem to have proven that, lol.For all of you who are not able to use this super engraving machine, there is an alternate way to engrave the caseback (and other areas) by using the electric etching method. Therefor you need:
1. Print the theme inverse on a toner transfer film.
- 9V Battery
- 2x electric cable with clamp
- Q-tips
- laser printer
- toner transfer film
- salt water
2. Cut the transfer film in the right size and put it at the metal. Follow your transfer film instruction carefully.
3.(Optional) repeat step 2 to be sure you have a thick layer of toner on your metal.
4. But the two electric cable to the +/- of your battery. Connect the + to the metal you like to etch. And the - connection goes to your q-tip.
5. Mix a spoon of salt with 50ml water and soak the q-tip in it. Be sure, the connector of your cable and the wadding is wet.
6. Now etch your metal by moving the wet Q-tip carefully over your toner transfer film. I left it for about 30-40 seconds each letter. Take care: the vapours produced are toxic. Best done outside.
7. Finally, use Aceton to remove the toner from the metal.
For anyone interested, there's a great thread on this method with some tips and tricks here.
- 9/8/10
- 924
- 804
- 93
Superb how to post, thank you! Been struggling to understand it!For all of you who are not able to use this super engraving machine, there is an alternate way to engrave the caseback (and other areas) by using the electric etching method. Therefor you need:
1. Print the theme inverse on a toner transfer film.
- 9V Battery
- 2x electric cable with clamp
- Q-tips
- laser printer
- toner transfer film
- salt water
2. Cut the transfer film in the right size and put it at the metal. Follow your transfer film instruction carefully.
3.(Optional) repeat step 2 to be sure you have a thick layer of toner on your metal.
4. But the two electric cable to the +/- of your battery. Connect the + to the metal you like to etch. And the - connection goes to your q-tip.
5. Mix a spoon of salt with 50ml water and soak the q-tip in it. Be sure, the connector of your cable and the wadding is wet.
6. Now etch your metal by moving the wet Q-tip carefully over your toner transfer film. I left it for about 30-40 seconds each letter. Take care: the vapours produced are toxic. Best done outside.
7. Finally, use Aceton to remove the toner from the metal.
Thx for sharing this awesome & detailed content, @matzemedia!!! ...as I had no time left to touch a single piece on my workbench last weekend, I found now another important task for the next one coming...For all of you who are not able to use this super engraving machine, there is an alternate way to engrave the caseback (and other areas) by using the electric etching method. Therefor you need:
1. Print the theme inverse on a toner transfer film.
- 9V Battery
- 2x electric cable with clamp
- Q-tips
- laser printer
- toner transfer film
- salt water
2. Cut the transfer film in the right size and put it at the metal. Follow your transfer film instruction carefully.
3.(Optional) repeat step 2 to be sure you have a thick layer of toner on your metal.
4. But the two electric cable to the +/- of your battery. Connect the + to the metal you like to etch. And the - connection goes to your q-tip.
5. Mix a spoon of salt with 50ml water and soak the q-tip in it. Be sure, the connector of your cable and the wadding is wet.
6. Now etch your metal by moving the wet Q-tip carefully over your toner transfer film. I left it for about 30-40 seconds each letter. Take care: the vapours produced are toxic. Best done outside.
7. Finally, use Aceton to remove the toner from the metal.
...don't now, where to start first, but saltwater-etching gained a high priority now!!!