What do you think now? Is it any good?
Nice watch. I'm holding on the trigger till I see if that movement is reliable. Other than that it looks veeeeeery nice.
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GMF released a GMT 3186 clone movement
- Thread starter KJ2020
- Start date
Nice watch. I'm holding on the trigger till I see if that movement is reliable. Other than that it looks veeeeeery nice.
Hazing
And So It Begins... Again
- 9/5/19
- 5,185
- 4,441
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I'm the same way. I always do this and it sometimes I end up spending too much just to try and get the most out of my shipping fees. Every time I mention this though, people laugh or tell me I'm nuts. I thought I was the only one. Lol.
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Hazing
And So It Begins... Again
- 9/5/19
- 5,185
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The bezel is tight on the case and has a stiff but smooth spin. It's easy to move intentionally but tight enough that it's not going to move accidentally.Hazing Looks great! How's the bezel play on your watch?
I received my tension spring washer from ebay and installed it today and the tension could still probably use one more tension spring to be perfect. I have the tiniest bit of wobble even with the tension spring washer in place, so I took a piece of horsehair from a violin bow and ran that around underneath the tension spring washer and that took out all of the extra slack left. I'd be open to buying a second washer and stacking them if the horsehair doesn't stay, but I am betting I never have to worry about it again.
I was also able to correct the alignment to be perfecto! and also had the chance to correct the ding in the case that I had caused when removing the bezel the first and second time. You cannot tell there was ever a ding there. How are people removing the bezel without dinging the case, though? And don't tell me the $1000 bergeon bezel removal tool.
I'm glad you fixed the ding and it's good to hear that you tightened the bezel. That's pretty ingenious. I'm glad it worked. Keep us posted. I hear about issues like this and I almost wish I could see it for myself but by the same token, I'm happy not to.
That kinda sucks though thay you got the watch like that. To be that's a pretty big deal. Was it always like that or did it happen only after you took the bezel off? I would hope Li would catch something like that.
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sickopsycho
Active Member
The Bergeon tool will mung up the case just as bad if not worse, I'm sure. Watch this video- the guy wraps his blade with tape, that's kind of genius! I was using tape on my case (instead of the blade), but somehow either cut through it or it slid out from under my blade. I think also if you try to pry up, pushing down on the case with the flat of the blade instead of using a twisting force and digging the (back) edge of the blade into the case... I messed mine up from twisting too much. How did you end up doing the repair? Sandpaper? I was extremely surprised by how well mine turned out, I thought for sure it would be obvious that I sanded it- but nope. Blended right in with the rest of the case. I can't even tell where I did the repair looking at it now.
edit: I saw one of these on wish recently for like $30. Horotec wants $350 for theirs, the Wish one looked literally exactly the same...
https://www.esslinger.com/horotec-wa...-remover-tool/
edit2: here is it on Wish for $35- that's cheap enough I might give it a whirl...
https://www.wish.com/search/Watch B...air Tool Kit/product/5e831b8803d90e539d9245f1
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Hazing
And So It Begins... Again
- 9/5/19
- 5,185
- 4,441
- 113
For me the functionality is important. It's why I always stayed away from GMTs. When I saw the example posted and how good it looked along with the fact that it had this movement, I jumped on it.
Keep in mind, I've only had it for a few hours and haven't opened up the case at all but so far so good.
I've never spent much time on gmt's because they always just had too many flaws. Both functionally and visually.
But these watches and movements have come a long long way in a short time.
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- 14/3/18
- 2,023
- 1,112
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Rejected my V3, worst bezel I’ve seen yet! Seems to be huge inconsistencies...
Then I realised it was VRF
Then I realised it was VRF
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I'm gonna wait to your first impresions after a few days and then I will jump over it if it's worth it. Thanks for the reply!
Hazing
And So It Begins... Again
- 9/5/19
- 5,185
- 4,441
- 113
Rejected my V3, worst bezel I’ve seen yet! Seems to be huge inconsistencies...
Then I realised it was VRF
Wow. Look at that. I mean in addition to the bad transitions and speed bumps, every other number on the insert is sloppy.We have seen some variation amongst inserts on the GMF inserts, But that is not a GMT V3 bezel. Definitely not.
Also the cannon pinion/hand stack/hole on the dial around the CP looks.... funky too.
what model did you order and Which dealer are you using?
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- 14/3/18
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Yeah I noticed it was VRF right after I posted, dealer has apologised and will get a GMF, putting it down to an honest mistake as they are sourcing me a VRF 3185 movement to put in the GMF.
Dissemination
Renowned Member
Dissemination
Renowned Member
Lol! Yeah, same boat. But I have a few others I've been eyeing anyways- most depending on if I'm gonna Franken or not.
- 12/3/18
- 34,663
- 66,754
- 113
Guys for bezel removal this is the best tool.
https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/328...02f7f15&is_c=Y
I taped dial protector squares (they are thin plastic) onto the jaws so there is no jaw contact with the case. The bracelet should be removed, it just gets in the way. The watch head goes in upside down. Turn the screw very slowly and closely inspect each jaw as it approaches the bezel to make certain it's going UNDER and not INTO the bezel. Once all the jaws are under the bezel and going in, watch how far each jaw goes and don't let one jaw get so far ahead of others that it contacts the case crystal lip or you will chip the jaw. If the bezel does not come completely off with the tool, double tape the case and finish the job with a good quality case knife or very sturdy plastic pry tool.
I actually have a much more expensive one and chipped 2 blades on it letting them contact the case crystal support lip. I bought the cheap one to scavenge the blades but decided to try it and so far it hasn't let me down. I highly recommend the dial protector squares taped to the top of the blades.
When you turn the screw and the blades approach the bezel, one or more blades can ride up on the bezel instead of locking down between the bezel and the case. If you don't notice it and keep turning the screw, eventually that blade will dig into the bezel at the point it slid up to. You can put a significant gouge in the lower bezel rim which would be visible if you let that happen.
https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/328...02f7f15&is_c=Y
I taped dial protector squares (they are thin plastic) onto the jaws so there is no jaw contact with the case. The bracelet should be removed, it just gets in the way. The watch head goes in upside down. Turn the screw very slowly and closely inspect each jaw as it approaches the bezel to make certain it's going UNDER and not INTO the bezel. Once all the jaws are under the bezel and going in, watch how far each jaw goes and don't let one jaw get so far ahead of others that it contacts the case crystal lip or you will chip the jaw. If the bezel does not come completely off with the tool, double tape the case and finish the job with a good quality case knife or very sturdy plastic pry tool.
I actually have a much more expensive one and chipped 2 blades on it letting them contact the case crystal support lip. I bought the cheap one to scavenge the blades but decided to try it and so far it hasn't let me down. I highly recommend the dial protector squares taped to the top of the blades.
When you turn the screw and the blades approach the bezel, one or more blades can ride up on the bezel instead of locking down between the bezel and the case. If you don't notice it and keep turning the screw, eventually that blade will dig into the bezel at the point it slid up to. You can put a significant gouge in the lower bezel rim which would be visible if you let that happen.
It came like this, otherwise I would have never removed the bezel in the first place. Also the play in the bezel is not in the spin but it's side to side and up and down movement. The assembly basically moves a hair back and forth if you grab it on each end and push it back and forth against the crystal. It was worse before the washer leading me to believe that there is play between the case and bottom of the insert. The less there is between those areas the less play I feel.
Keep in mind I bought an ICHS and the crystal height has clearly changed from prior models so perhaps all of that comes together to have this issue surface? Or maybe my unit was a fluke. Either way I'm happy with it now. Here's a pic of it on my black gen rubberb today.
Guys for bezel removal this is the best tool.
https://m.pt.aliexpress.com/item/328...02f7f15&is_c=Y
I taped dial protector squares (they are thin plastic) onto the jaws so there is no jaw contact with the case. The bracelet should be removed, it just gets in the way. The watch head goes in upside down. Turn the screw very slowly and closely inspect each jaw as it approaches the bezel to make certain it's going UNDER and not INTO the bezel. Once all the jaws are under the bezel and going in, watch how far each jaw goes and don't let one jaw get so far ahead of others that it contacts the case crystal lip or you will chip the jaw. If the bezel does not come completely off with the tool, double tape the case and finish the job with a good quality case knife or very sturdy plastic pry tool.
I actually have a much more expensive one and chipped 2 blades on it letting them contact the case crystal support lip. I bought the cheap one to scavenge the blades but decided to try it and so far it hasn't let me down. I highly recommend the dial protector squares taped to the top of the blades.
When you turn the screw and the blades approach the bezel, one or more blades can ride up on the bezel instead of locking down between the bezel and the case. If you don't notice it and keep turning the screw, eventually that blade will dig into the bezel at the point it slid up to. You can put a significant gouge in the lower bezel rim which would be visible if you let that happen.
Thank you!
sickopsycho
Active Member
Thanks man, this was the one I was looking at- except I was looking at the exact same one that was about $15 more. I just ordered, now just wait a month or two for my ePacket to show up lol. Thanks for the link!
Hazing
And So It Begins... Again
- 9/5/19
- 5,185
- 4,441
- 113
I took some pics for those of you who want to see some of the details.
Earlier this evening the sun burned through the cloud cover and I ran outside to take some pics of the insert plating. I only had a minute to do that so I just grabbed a few and while in a rush. (mostly the triangle)
After that, (later) I finally had a chance to spend a few minutes really looking over the case and bracelet. The engraving is crisp and sharp.
I also took more pics of the insert plating but this time under 13x magnification and under artificial light. (triangle and some numbers).
Let me just say, the bracelet is really good. I noticed that right away and yesterday as soon as I unwrapped it, I could feel it. The clasp is solid. The brushing of the links is even slightly more uniform and it looks like a better brushing compared to arf. ARF looks a little... Straggly and the GMF has a warmer (ever so slightly) hue to the metal itself. Maybe from a higher copper content? Just a guess but there's an ever so subtle difference. In the pics of the bracelets. The arf is in the middle. The GMF is on the ends.
The engravings are crisp and clear. On the case and on the bracelet. I have a comparison Pic of the VRF end link and the GMF end link and the difference is quite noticeable. I compared the GMF with the VRF because they're both GMT Master Bracelets. The ARF I has is a submariner and bracelet and it is still on my other GMT.
And the rest are just a few others. I tried for a few but haven't been able to open the csde yet.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
Earlier this evening the sun burned through the cloud cover and I ran outside to take some pics of the insert plating. I only had a minute to do that so I just grabbed a few and while in a rush. (mostly the triangle)
After that, (later) I finally had a chance to spend a few minutes really looking over the case and bracelet. The engraving is crisp and sharp.
I also took more pics of the insert plating but this time under 13x magnification and under artificial light. (triangle and some numbers).
Let me just say, the bracelet is really good. I noticed that right away and yesterday as soon as I unwrapped it, I could feel it. The clasp is solid. The brushing of the links is even slightly more uniform and it looks like a better brushing compared to arf. ARF looks a little... Straggly and the GMF has a warmer (ever so slightly) hue to the metal itself. Maybe from a higher copper content? Just a guess but there's an ever so subtle difference. In the pics of the bracelets. The arf is in the middle. The GMF is on the ends.
The engravings are crisp and clear. On the case and on the bracelet. I have a comparison Pic of the VRF end link and the GMF end link and the difference is quite noticeable. I compared the GMF with the VRF because they're both GMT Master Bracelets. The ARF I has is a submariner and bracelet and it is still on my other GMT.
And the rest are just a few others. I tried for a few but haven't been able to open the csde yet.
Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
- 12/3/18
- 34,663
- 66,754
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Yes, great pics bro. This is definitely a nice piece in fit and finish. Bracelet better than ARF, who would have guessed?
At some point I'm guessing you would want to run the movement through its paces. I'm curious about the feel and function of time setting and hour jumping. Please don't overdo it on our account, the last thing we want to happen is for it to break due to unnecessary manipulation!
Here's a refresher on how the movements work.
Gen model characteristics
116710 LN / BLNR ‐ 3186, single coronet dial, oyster bracelet, shorter hands, rotate crown clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward.
126710 BLNR / BLRO - 3285, double coronet dial, jubilee bracelet, longer hands, rotate crown anti-clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward.
Rep model characteristics
All kinds of combinations are offered regarding dials, bracelets, hands length, and crown operation. It's pretty rare that a stock rep model would have everything correct. The ARF 116710 LN has all of these characteristics right. VRF comes very close but the cases are all engraved 126710, and both models are 116710's. This new GMF 116710 hour jumps opposite to gen. All new rep 126710's using any one of the new VR/SH/SA 3185/6 true clone movements will set time opposite to gen.
Rep movement characteristics
DG2813, DG3804 ICHS and CHS, A2824 CHS, A2836 ICHS
Rotate crown anti-clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward (DG3804 CHS and A2824 CHS only).
VR3185, SH3186
Rotate crown clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward.
SA3186
Rotate crown clockwise to advance hands forward and anti-clockwise to hour jump forward.
So, this SA3186 movement is a bit of a unicorn according to the videos we've seen. Hopefully that won't translate into it being something else, I won't even say the word!
At some point I'm guessing you would want to run the movement through its paces. I'm curious about the feel and function of time setting and hour jumping. Please don't overdo it on our account, the last thing we want to happen is for it to break due to unnecessary manipulation!
Here's a refresher on how the movements work.
Gen model characteristics
116710 LN / BLNR ‐ 3186, single coronet dial, oyster bracelet, shorter hands, rotate crown clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward.
126710 BLNR / BLRO - 3285, double coronet dial, jubilee bracelet, longer hands, rotate crown anti-clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward.
Rep model characteristics
All kinds of combinations are offered regarding dials, bracelets, hands length, and crown operation. It's pretty rare that a stock rep model would have everything correct. The ARF 116710 LN has all of these characteristics right. VRF comes very close but the cases are all engraved 126710, and both models are 116710's. This new GMF 116710 hour jumps opposite to gen. All new rep 126710's using any one of the new VR/SH/SA 3185/6 true clone movements will set time opposite to gen.
Rep movement characteristics
DG2813, DG3804 ICHS and CHS, A2824 CHS, A2836 ICHS
Rotate crown anti-clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward (DG3804 CHS and A2824 CHS only).
VR3185, SH3186
Rotate crown clockwise to advance hands forward and hour jump forward.
SA3186
Rotate crown clockwise to advance hands forward and anti-clockwise to hour jump forward.
So, this SA3186 movement is a bit of a unicorn according to the videos we've seen. Hopefully that won't translate into it being something else, I won't even say the word!
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- 1/2/19
- 262
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Maybe we need to convert the ARF vs VRF GAMECHANGING BATTLE thread to an ARF vs GMF vs VRF TRIPLE BATTLE ROYALE thread
I have to say, I have a modded Daytona that has a ARF bracelet and compared to my GMF the ARF bracelet is superior in fit and finish. The GMF clasp is not as sturdy as my ARF clasp, the ends of each link on my GMF are sharper and less refined in overall feel, and the GMF links are tight and bind up slightly when you fold the links together as far as they will go.